Best concrete floor prep for pole barn on downward slope

[neopheous]

Some pics with the metal all finished up.

 

[Streetcar]

Yeah, I知 going to use 304 crusher run to fill. I agree that I壇 have rather had the slab down first but the Amish that built the building said they wanted it down after, the concrete guy wanted the slab first. I understand that as it causes issue for one or the other unless you plan on building on top of the slab, which I did not. I can see digging the post holes would have presented an issue if you had to do the right next to the slab, unless u dug then by hand.

As I measure it I値l only need to place gravel about 1-1/2-2 up on the first 2x8 on the bottom to allow room for the 4-5 of concrete on top. Not sure how much gravel it痴 going to take but I would imagine between 30-40 tons.

All subgrade work should be complete prior to building barn. It is easier to place concrete prior to completing walls

 

[dragoneggs]

All subgrade work should be complete prior to building barn. It is easier to place concrete prior to completing walls

At least the grading and crushed rock. Easy enough to shoot in cement once covered. That's what we did when we built our house with attached three car garage. Didn't have to worry about the weather.

 

[s219]

Goodness, you made life a lot harder by not preparing/grading the pad prior to putting up the barn! Even if you don't level the site perfectly, getting the sod and topsoil out and replacing with compactable fill and/or gravel should be step 1. You can backfill inside the barn with gravel to level the grade, and also pour a thickened edge next to the skirts so that the fill doesn't bear outwards on the skirts.

 

[neopheous]

Goodness, you made life a lot harder by not preparing/grading the pad prior to putting up the barn! Even if you don't level the site perfectly, getting the sod and topsoil out and replacing with compactable fill and/or gravel should be step 1. You can backfill inside the barn with gravel to level the grade, and also pour a thickened edge next to the skirts so that the fill doesn't bear outwards on the skirts.

Well I guess hind sights always 20/20, right?

Just looked at another building - 24x30 - I had built back in 2002 and I never removed the sod on it either. If fact I don’t remember the concrete guy removing the sod from it before pouring. If he didn’t, it’s been 16 years and, knock on wood, there is not one crack in it. Also had a 15x30 dog park built and all they did was scrape the sod off with shovels and then laid plastic down and poured a 4” slab for it. Again, knock on wood, but it’s been over 5 years on it as well with no cracks. Oh, and neither one even has expansion joints cut in them.

Here’s a pic of the other building from 2002:

 

[Ford850]

Skim off most of the top soil and pile along outside building but away from the walls a bit to allow the 304 to spill out. Add your 304 to the desired depth allowing to spill out around base to add support. Then push top soil back around base to hold 304 from moving further out and to create drainage away from building.

 

[neopheous]

Skim off most of the top soil and pile along outside building but away from the walls a bit to allow the 304 to spill out. Add your 304 to the desired depth allowing to spill out around base to add support. Then push top soil back around base to hold 304 from moving further out and to create drainage away from building.

Thanks Ford.... sounds like a plan.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Thanks Ford.... sounds like a plan.

I was working on our water feature today and it reminded I forgot to recommend putting a 2" layer of 3/8 minus gravel on top of your layer of aggregate. It usually comes at the right moisture content and rolling it makes a surface almost like concrete. Nothing moves on it. I had to relocate some stones bedded in it and had to practically chisel it. I use it for all kinds of things where I want a real solid base.

Ron

 

[neopheous]

I was working on our water feature today and it reminded I forgot to recommend putting a 2" layer of 3/8 minus gravel on top of your layer of aggregate. It usually comes at the right moisture content and rolling it makes a surface almost like concrete. Nothing moves on it. I had to relocate some stones bedded in it and had to practically chisel it. I use it for all kinds of things where I want a real solid base.

Ron

Sounds good. I’ve used it in my dog park as a base and then placed the heavy rubber stall mats on top of that. Makes a good floorfor the dogs.