I agree with Gene. If you have good oil pressure that holds at hot idle.. or at least stays in the 20's at hot idle.. then I would buy some 'test' cheap 10w30 oil.. wallmart 84 cent a quart supertech would be fine. Check out your hot idle oil pressure then. If you can keep it double digit at hot idle, with some rise at hot throttle.. i wouldn't worry too much. If you get hot idle pressure at 6 or below.. I'd go back to a 30w oil.
I wonder if you can get a 20w oil anywhere?
I'm not a chem-engineer.. but havn't heard many references to mixing oils.. even of same manufacturer.
One thought does come to mind. Try the 30w oil, thinned with marvel mystery oil. MMO is a solvent.. It is common to MMO an engine that is about to get a flush.. and even to replace a quart of oil with it. It's one of the few 'addative/snake oil' products that more or less performs as advertised. ( it's basically souped up stoddards solvent anyway).
Over on the N forum, we reccomend this for stuck valves and rings ( that is.. physically dousing the valves via the covers, and filling the cyls and hand turning ). As it is a solvent.. it will thin the oil.. and lower your oil pressure a tad if there is wear.. however it should be an ideal compromise between your 10w30 vs 30w debate. On the plus side.. if you do this constantly.. you should have a fairly clean engine in a couple years.. whether you like it or not!
As with anny solvents and volatiles.. check your oil often to verify level, as I'm guessing you may need to top off some MMO /oil depending on how often you change your oil. If you do it quarterly.. should be fine.. if bi-annual or yearly.. I'd expect there to be some volume loss.
Soundguy