Comparison Best first tractor?

[clevalley]

So looking at local dealers, we've got two that I know people speak highly of - one a Kubota and the other a John Deere. We also have a New Holland dealer a little farther out, and I haven't heard much on them yet. Those are about all of our local options.

When I checked with the local John Deere dealer, they have the 3025E tractor and loader on sale for $15,250, and their entry level 2 family tractor, the 2032R tractor with a 62D mower deck and loader is $22,499.

The question I keep wondering is... why do I keep seeing the 2 family listed at higher prices that the 3 family? I thought the 3 was supposed to be bigger and better? Does the 2 family have more bells and whistles? I feel like I'm missing something here. I know the 2 listed above is 32 HP, vs 25HP on the 3, but still... The more comparable 3032E (32 HP) on JohnDeere.com is listed at $19k. Thoughts?

I believe the 2 family is a bit more 'refined' than the 3 series for ergonomics and frills. The 3 series is a workhorse, but not to dismiss the 2 series as you can push them pretty hard. I cannot remember if all of the 3xxxe series has a removable loader - you may want to ask them that if they are removable or easily removed, and have them show you! It was far and few between when I took the loader off but it is something to think about.

I had a belly mower on the 2320 and it cut grass beautifully but as soon as I put it in tall field grass it really wore the belt out on it, I snapped about 1 a year until I put a rotary cutter on the back of it. The drive-over deck (belly mower) is a really nice feature for quick connect/disconnect. The kevlar belt will run you about $100, give or take a few $'s If you plan on letting your field get tall and mow it with the belly mower I would pass and get a rotary cutter added to the package.

I would compare pricing at the dealer on 3032e and 2043r - friends of ours has the 3032e and it is a great tractor.

My friend has a New Holland (NH) and loves it - it is a 110HP tractor but he really likes what they have to offer in their other models. He is considering a smaller NH tractor for more day-to-day chores in the horse barn.

Once you narrow down your HP requirements (looks like you have in the 32HP range) I would look at Kubota, Mahindra, Massey Ferguson and New Holland as well in the same specification range (HP, transmission choice) to ensure you are making the right choice. Most importantly, get a feel for the dealer and do some Googling to check out their reviews, also Yelp and the like will cast some light on their service.

 

[Joe Malovich]

You might want to look at the kubota L2501, no DPF to worry about and plenty of tractor for hard work, just not as fast as the more powerful models in the L series.

 

[arrow]

So looking at local dealers, we've got two that I know people speak highly of - one a Kubota and the other a John Deere. We also have a New Holland dealer a little farther out, and I haven't heard much on them yet. Those are about all of our local options.

When I checked with the local John Deere dealer, they have the 3025E tractor and loader on sale for $15,250, and their entry level 2 family tractor, the 2032R tractor with a 62D mower deck and loader is $22,499.

The question I keep wondering is... why do I keep seeing the 2 family listed at higher prices that the 3 family? I thought the 3 was supposed to be bigger and better? Does the 2 family have more bells and whistles? I feel like I'm missing something here. I know the 2 listed above is 32 HP, vs 25HP on the 3, but still... The more comparable 3032E (32 HP) on JohnDeere.com is listed at $19k. Thoughts?

If they're are no extenuating circumstances such as gear compared to hydro or implement inclusion, I think that JD is not going by "tractor specs" if indeed this is the case. Increased hp (larger engines can also drive pricing even if within a smaller frame) is useless if you do not have the weight to use it. They could be driven on what is selling more. Popularity may be driving prices. What disturbs me most about jD is it seems they are are deferring to the "pencil pushers" more than what sold JD's in the past. A myriad of plastic parts and decks and aluminum gear housings do not hold my confidence for how I use my tractor ( logging in dense woods with rock infested terrain and pushing heavy or deep snow ) along with prices that go along with more expensive materials as opposed to what they're using. I was a JD user for almost 30 years. They're new stuff along with they're pricing policies is what turned me away.
That being said, it sounds as if you are not using your tractor in rough situations such as woods logging. I'd be looking for the highest pto hp as you seem to have extensive mowing to do. Rough terrain and heavy work is what beats up these smaller tractors. Whatever you look at along with dealer quality will do you just fine.

 

[FlightRT]

I'm new to tractors as well. I got 5 acres. I went from a little JD mower. I Checked out JD, Kubota, Massey, and Mahindra. I started out looking at all of their entry level tractors, the 1 series, BX, etc. After reading the forums and research, I ended up with a Kubota 2601 with QA FEL and MMM. I could not be happy with its performance and comfort. I got the Kubota for $18,500 delivered with loaded tires. Good luck!

 

[rScotty]

You've gotten a lot of good advice. I agree with going one size larger than you think you will need. Not for the power so much - anything over 20/25 hp is going to have plenty of power - but for the ground clearance and stability.

There are half a dozen really good makes today. That's not too surprising when you think about it. When countries begin to industrialize, tractor manufacture for local farming is often a primary industry. If the product is good, then they will eventually export.
As others have said, Kubota and John Deere are the current leaders. Both are good, as are others.

Implements are universal. Whatever you choose will most likely have a category I three-point hitch (cat I 3pt) on the back, and a power take off (PTO) with a standard output shaft. Hydraulic power for other implements is also standardized at 2500/3000 psi @ 6 to 12 gallons/minute in in the 20 /30 hp range. Four wheel drive is the standard as well. You will find two wheel drive tractors on the market, but I advise 4WD. Tractors are all about traction, and 4wd is very popular for good reason.

Engines are extremely durable and don't have many options. That is fine....
You will have a choice of transmissions. All are bulletproof. The basic is a standard clutch and gear drive - but with more gears than you find in a car. The first upgrade from the basic gear type will be some form of power shift (manual, but clutchless), and the top of the line today is the hydrostatic transmission. Regardless of transmission type, you want as many gears or ranges as possible.

And don't ignore the used market. Compared with just about anything other consumer product, tractors last a very long time. Model years always span several years and sometimes span decades. Remember that tractors are "new" when sold, not when manufactured. So a tractor sold as new this year may well have been made years ago. Tractor technology changes slowly. Other than the new low emission motors - a questionable benefit - the whole rest of any tractor built since about 2005 has all today's modern features. Others might put the date even farther back.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[Texasmark]

My "first tractor" was a Farmall Super A that was owned by a coworker's family. That tractor was basically a tillage tractor setup up for cultivating row crops. Had a 25 hp 4 cyl engine. It's what I could afford at the time and was the start of my learning experience with agriculture.....about 40 years ago........I'm still learning.

 

[Baby Grand]

What clevalley said:

I cannot remember if all of the 3xxxe series has a removable loader - you may want to ask them that if they are removable or easily removed, and have them show you! It was far and few between when I took the loader off but it is something to think about.

Have them remove it & put it back on while you watch.
For brush cutting on our place, I like to drop the FEL, then put it back on when I'm done.
Much more maneuverable and less chance of "collateral damage" to fence posts, garages, etc., when it's off.