Best Gen Purpose Pulling Chain/Rope ?

[Gio]

Hi everyone.

I just bought my first tractor (MF GC2400) and I also just purchased my first rural property. My wife and I found a perfect spot about 40 minutes outside of town on 5 acres with a great old farmhouse.

Anyway...we have tons of work to do including pulling a bunch of big trees and Misc items from the property. What is my best option? Chain? Rope? Cable? Also, is there a vendor out there that makes something ready to go (Tractor supply? etc)

Thank you in advance for your help

Jason

 

[20 20]

Check out harbor freight they usually have sales on chain with hooks, I bought a couple of the 3/8's.

 

[Chilly807]

Your best bet is to get a couple different lengths (one 12 foot and one 20 foot for example) of grade 70 chain. With 22.5 hp, 1/4 inch grade 70 will handle most chores easily. 5/16 is stronger, but also heavier. I use 1/4 inch grade 70 with my L3400 Kubota for skidding chain, it's worked well so far. Put a slip hook on one end and a grab hook on the other and you're all set for most jobs that require chain.

Rope is prone to wear and breakage, and cable is a pain in the a** in general with broken strands and snarls/kinks.

There are charts available showing the working and breaking strength of chain,

Chain Grading

WLL for 1/4 inch Gr70 with appropriate hooks is 3150 lbs, breaking strength is 4 times that. Meaning you should be able to dangle 4 of your tractors if not more from one piece of chain before it breaks.

Sean

 

[MMagis]

Thought I’d add that if you need particularly long lengths, cable is much lighter to work with. Otherwise, I use chain.

 

[rjkobbeman]

Thought I壇 add that if you need particularly long lengths, cable is much lighter to work with. Otherwise, I use chain.

I prefer chain over cable and/or rope. They can be deadly.

 

[leonz]

OH BOY;


Let us solve this before you get your head torn off please:


There is no one best option which fits everything short of having the plot cleared with a wood shear mounted on a loader or crawler; lets just settle that issue.

The thing is you can not just start hacking and hauling with no pathways, escape paths or legitimate access with a larger vehicle.

1. terrain is the major issue, you cannot start yanking on things with the simple desire to get rid of them for numerous reasons including:
a. line of sight haulage.
b. traction available-dry ground is a must!!!!
c. terrain and sight lines for pathways.
d. ability to use sheave blocks safely for wire rope to remove difficult logs or
machinery.
e. tipping over past the point of recovery and death or injury.
f. the tractor may not be big enough anyway!!!

g. your possible lack of experience with regard to winch lines and sheave
block use in dense brush and high tree populations per acre.
h. whiplash from broken wire rope slings or slipping chains and undersize
chains or wire rope.

I. slippage/freeing of wire rope clamps and thimbles resulting in whiplash.

2. density of brush and dead material on the floor of the wood lot.
a. what is the density of stumpage on the property?

b. utilities-they love to bury things and not tell folks.

c. location of high voltage lines and the proximity of property and proper sight
lines.

d. abandoned dug or drilled wells with small covered roofs-steep pitched roof
covers over pump pits or dug wells.



3. reread number one.

4. inadequate drainage.

5. reread number 1, YOU must safe path of escape when dealing with dead down or standing trees or cutting stumpage.

6. you have to have a pathway for the wire rope and the ability to properly position and locate sheave blocks to obtain the mechanical advantage they offer but you must HAVE ROOM and help.

a. If the crap you are yanking out get stuck it takes a millisecond to stop your
tractor and you may not have time to react if it starts to tip back on you;
If the ground is wet the rops will simply be pushed into the ground if the
tractor has enough forward motion and traction, a lot of people died at tractor
pulls for the same reason before cages were required for the tractors.


leonz

 

[Hawghauler]

If you use a chain, buy one with a load rating capable of towing. Generally huge links. I had a a crew involved in an industrial accident trying to tow with a tie down chain and it ended up with a fatality. Not pretty. A piece of metal the size of a pea flew about 65 feet and dropped a guy who bled out. It was like getting shot. He was a spectator standing way back (in a safe area) in case the chain broke. Cable might be safer.

 

[rekees4300]

Hi everyone.

I just bought my first tractor (MF GC2400) and I also just purchased my first rural property. My wife and I found a perfect spot about 40 minutes outside of town on 5 acres with a great old farmhouse.

Anyway...we have tons of work to do including pulling a bunch of big trees and Misc items from the property. What is my best option? Chain? Rope? Cable? Also, is there a vendor out there that makes something ready to go (Tractor supply? etc)

Thank you in advance for your help

Jason

Be careful trying to pull big trees with a tractor that small. I recommend using a 3/8" and/or 5/16" chain from TSC. They will cut the chain to whatever length you wish and put hooks on it. Invest in a good chainsaw to cut the trees into manageable pieces.

 

[/pine]

There's nothing wrong with using nylon straps as long as you don't overload them for their ratings...I bought them at wally-world in a pinch one time and have used them to drag/move many large trees and logs since...

always remember to pull heavy or questionable loads from the drawbar UNDER the rear axle and NOT the 3ph...

I suggest getting a clevis or shackle with a throat larger than the thickness of the drawbar for hooking up pull chains or straps etc...

 

[MMagis]

I prefer chain over cable and/or rope. They can be deadly.

I simply don't like to handle 50+ feet of chain. If professional loggers use it, it should work. A weight hanging on the cable helps prevent it recoiling too far if it were to break. I'll mention that I've broken cable many times and have never had come even remotely close to me. Not saying it can't happen, just haven't seen it.

 

[rjkobbeman]

I simply don't like to handle 50+ feet of chain. If professional loggers use it, it should work. A weight hanging on the cable helps prevent it recoiling too far if it were to break. I'll mention that I've broken cable many times and have never had come even remotely close to me. Not saying it can't happen, just haven't seen it.

Granted, I don't log. I was just commenting in general. These loggin threads have really opened my eye into how dangerous this can be. Who would have though dragging logs could be so dangerous...

I'm glad I have read this stuff. I would have never thought twice about hooking up and dragging away if someone ever needed the help.

 

[roger 4400]

Hi ! never use ropes that will extend ( like yellow nylon cables...) if you use cable it HAS TO BE kevlar or special cables that DO NOT STRETCH. It is a must. A friend of mine used a nylon cable (that stretches) and put 2 feet of chain at the end to pull......while pulling the cable stretched and the chain unhooked, he was looking at the log when the cable came back to his face with the chain.....wounded, he went to his neighbor to ask for help, knock at the door the neighbor lady fainted when she saw him...he went to her phone dialed 911 and never could speak because half of his face was no more there, no more jaw ( he could not talked) and lost an eye. So things happens....but work safe and listen to the other advises like pulling with the UNDER differential draw bar it can save you from tipping. To me and others tractors always look like toys BUT they are not. Always work and think before, accident occurs when we feel too safe. Have a good day.

 

[bstrom]

The best option is to hire it out. Especially if you have big trees to cut. You may need someone with a skidder or a larger sized excavator with a thumb, especially if you want to save the logs.

The next option would be to hire and work with someone with logging experience, maybe using your tractor and his know how until you are comfortable at least.

The most dangerous option if you don't have experience is to start right in doing it yourself. It's difficult and dangerous and labor intensive work even to clear just an acre or two! Good luck and get help.

 

[DMW]

I'm with Chilly807.

1/4" GR70 is all you'll need. Easier to handle than the 5/16. I keep and 8 footer on the tractor for easy access. The 5/16 was a waste of money,it sits in the shop unused. Don't have to worry about rust because of the plating.

For the size of the GC2400 all you'll probably ever need is an 8 foot, and 12 foot. Both with a slip hook on one end, and a grab hook on the other. The chain and hooks should be available at TSC.

It may seem expensive, but buy it right, and you only have to buy it once.

 

[newbury]

Get several lengths of 20' truckers grade 70 chain from HF, I have about 5 of them bought on sale for I think about $20.

Get an assortment of clevis, connector links, shackles etc., they go on sale frequently also.

Get at least one if not several chain-pullers (come-alongs) from HF, they are WELL worth it.

For rope from HF get a couple of big snatch blocks and pulleys.

Get at least 100' of bull rope with at least 3 ton breaking strength. Check
Clearance Rope Sale

for clearance pieces.

Get at least 200 feet of cheaper nylon or manila rope if you can find it on a good sale. There are always things to be tied down.

Treat it all like you are working with a chain saw while riding a unicycle.

 

[R_Walter]

Be careful trying to pull big trees with a tractor that small. I recommend using a 3/8" and/or 5/16" chain from TSC. They will cut the chain to whatever length you wish and put hooks on it. Invest in a good chainsaw to cut the trees into manageable pieces.

You got to know what you're doing when you start cutting trees with a chainsaw even, maybe, especially, when, they're already on the ground.

 

[Chilly807]

Some good advice here, if you know what to weed out. Kinda like a garden.

Some of the best was to hire out the ugly stuff, the 2400 isn't going to cope well with some of the bigger trees, even when they're cut up into smaller pieces. Of course, big to me is pushing two feet in diameter, the OP may have smaller stuff in mind. Every situation is different.

I think I'd start off small with the stuff I could get to, work your way up until you get to the point where both the tractor and you are saying, "Enough of this.." then get a good pro in to finish the rest. You'll soon find how big you're comfortable with. When you're tired, it's enough for that day. 90% of serious woods accidents happen late in the day. The right safety gear is a must, I still wear the saw pants even in August. Not comfortable, but safer.

Best advice on cutting wind- or dead-falls I can think of is to have a good, slow look at the tree first. See where the weight is, what it's going to do when you cut it off the stump, etc. Leave some room to get away. Cut a little at a time, see what's happening as you go. A spare saw is a good thing, particularly when the first one gets stuck in the tree and you have to cut it out. Notice I said when, not if? I've cut a lot of trees over the years, I still get one stuck every so often.

I'm pretty much self-taught, had a few close calls that could have been worse. Felling is something you should get someone that knows what they're doing to show you, unless you already have that skill set. There's more to getting a tree to fall where you want it than most realize.

Have fun, do what you can safely do yourself, and don't be afraid to seek professional help.

Sean

 

[newbury]

And if you want the best rope/chain - try Amsteel Blue, expensive but.
Here's the best price place i found:
Amsteel Blue, Winch Line, Rope, ATV winch lines

 

[Gio]

WOW...Great Information! Thank you for taking time to reply

I have done enough dumb stuff in my past 40 years to know when to ask for help or just run away. I am sure I will make some mistakes but I will do my best to avoid the big ones.

The fallen trees I plan on dealing with are rotted through the core and not super heavy. I just want to get them away from my out buildings so I can make a few repairs. Short of a giant fire I am sure I will have to call in some heavy equipment.

Thank you again!

 

[BruceWard]

I bought my Dad 100' of 3/8" Amsteel Blue for Christmas. It has had a lot of use around the farm since then and even pulled over a few trees. The 3/8" Amsteel Blue has 19,600 pound break strength. But I would not want to use it to drag trees as I doubt it would hold up to abrasion and it is expensive.

I have used an old tow strap to drag trees and stumps around my 4 acre building lot. I had a D4H push over the trees, cut off the stumps with a chain saw and cut the lots into managable pieces. Then used the strap to pull them to where the FEL could reach and picked them up with forks. If I cut them I used the backhoe to dig out the stumps.