Backhoe Best practices when using your backhoe?

[Gasifier]

I am looking for best practice advice when using a backhoe. I have done a bit of work with different loader/backhoes over the years. (Large and small.)But I certainly am no expert. I currently own and operate a Kubota L3710 with loader and backhoe. I am in the process of some landscape work to include digging up tree stumps, rocks, etc. And will be digging some drainage ditches in the future. For one example. I have wondered if I should leave the tractor in neutral to prevent strain on the transmission when using the backhoe? Any other "best practice" advice would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[Mousefield]

Putting the trans in neutral as you suggest is a good idea, it's not like you are driving anywhere. Also when digging a ditch make sure when you get to the end you can get the tractor out. Almost did that at the neighbors, dug from the house to his new chicken coop, lucky I figured it out before I had the ditch dug. :laughing:

 

[Carl_NH]

OK - I'll attempt a few..

1. Run the RPM at the level you need to get the job done - I usually run between 1500 and 1800 RPM seems to work for most jobs, but if a tough stump etc will up it to 2000. Higher RPM means it moves faster so 1500-1800 seems to run smoothest for me.

2. I leave it in gear - while sitting in the seat I can reach the HST pedal (B21) and move the tractor around (you may not be able to do this with a larger machine) I dont think leaving it in gear will create too much stress either way.

3. Stablizers/Front Bucket - Most of the time I leave the FEL up and just use stablizers and dig, but if in tough digging rocks/stumps getting the bucket down first and raising front wheels then put the stablizers down makes for a much more stable digging platform.

4. Stumps - leave 3' for leverage on smaller 6-8" trees and dig around the stump some first then use that as a lever to break loose.

5. Rocks - get a thumb! and pick up and transport and place them in the BH thumb. Also in rocks be careful about stablizer cylinders - rocks roll and fall

6. Digging/Planting - when creating a hole for a tree place dirt around three sides and then level the spot in front or side so you know ground level - this prevents planting tree to deep or shallow.

Also when transplanting, get a FEL load of dirt/compost, dig the new hole then dig out the transplantee then backfill old hole with some dirt, then pick up tree/bush and take to new hole and install covering with remaining compost. This is more logistics than BH use I know..

Trenching - lots of different things here depending on each situation to straddle or work from the side and depth all are factors - I usually try to put the nasty stuff rock/roots on one side and segregate cleaner material or loam for backfill if you dont have sand for around pipes etc.

 

[Gasifier]

I forgot to mention the tractor is a HST transmission. So I do not know if that makes a difference. Whenever I am digging with the backhoe I always put the loader bucket down tight to the ground and put both stabilizers down. Much less bucking and moving me around that way. I usually run about 1600 rpm. I do have a mechanical thumb. Love it. I really wish they made a hydraulic thumb for my size tractor. Before I got this machine I would occasionally rent a medium size Kubota excavator. It had a hydraulic thumb. What a nice option to have! Making sure you can get out when ditching is always handy! I have discovered that in the nick of time before! :ashamed:

 

[CompactTractorFan]

OK - I'll attempt a few..

1. Run the RPM at the level you need to get the job done - I usually run between 1500 and 1800 RPM seems to work for most jobs, but if a tough stump etc will up it to 2000. Higher RPM means it moves faster so 1500-1800 seems to run smoothest for me.

2. I leave it in gear - while sitting in the seat I can reach the HST pedal (B21) and move the tractor around (you may not be able to do this with a larger machine) I dont think leaving it in gear will create too much stress either way.

3. Stablizers/Front Bucket - Most of the time I leave the FEL up and just use stablizers and dig, but if in tough digging rocks/stumps getting the bucket down first and raising front wheels then put the stablizers down makes for a much more stable digging platform.

4. Stumps - leave 3' for leverage on smaller 6-8" trees and dig around the stump some first then use that as a lever to break loose.

5. Rocks - get a thumb! and pick up and transport and place them in the BH thumb. Also in rocks be careful about stablizer cylinders - rocks roll and fall

6. Digging/Planting - when creating a hole for a tree place dirt around three sides and then level the spot in front or side so you know ground level - this prevents planting tree to deep or shallow.

Also when transplanting, get a FEL load of dirt/compost, dig the new hole then dig out the transplantee then backfill old hole with some dirt, then pick up tree/bush and take to new hole and install covering with remaining compost. This is more logistics than BH use I know..

Trenching - lots of different things here depending on each situation to straddle or work from the side and depth all are factors - I usually try to put the nasty stuff rock/roots on one side and segregate cleaner material or loam for backfill if you dont have sand for around pipes etc.

Out of all those, I think #4 is one of the most important. Makes stump removal SO much easier! :thumbsup:

 

[Mousefield]

4. Stumps - leave 3' for leverage on smaller 6-8" trees and dig around the stump some first then use that as a lever to break loose. :thumbsup:

I always break the roots first, we have some big stumps on our place so this is a must.

 

[tessiers]

I've got a few hours on various machines and the best advice I ever got that actually made me a better operator is keep the bottom of the bucket level with the grade you are trying to dig. If you are trying to dig a ditch with a flat bottom keep the bottom of the bucket level and it will about hold grade itself. Same with grading ditches and lawn areas. Biggest mistake you can make is to try to hold grade with the teeth. Watch a pro sometime and try to follow what they do.

 

[rmk700]

I forgot to mention the tractor is a HST transmission. So I do not know if that makes a difference. Whenever I am digging with the backhoe I always put the loader bucket down tight to the ground and put both stabilizers down. Much less bucking and moving me around that way. I usually run about 1600 rpm. I do have a mechanical thumb. Love it. I really wish they made a hydraulic thumb for my size tractor. Before I got this machine I would occasionally rent a medium size Kubota excavator. It had a hydraulic thumb. What a nice option to have! Making sure you can get out when ditching is always handy! I have discovered that in the nick of time before! :ashamed:

Some situations you may not be able to lower the front bucket for additional stablity. If that happens you can put the tractor in four wheel drive and lock the brakes. This will keep the front wheels from moving and helps keep tractor more stable.

 

[bvahjen]

Here is one of my favorites. Only use on close to level ground. When trenching, put the stabilizers and FEL down, trans in neutral, dig as far as you can with the boom. Then reach over, lower the throttle, pop into forward, roll a bit, pop into neutral and repeat. Saves the stress of pushing or pulling the whole machine with the boom.

 

[tawilson]

When I need to dig a trench through sod, I cut through the sod layer first. Makes a fairly straight cut and is a lot neater than bringing up full buckets of dirt. That tears the sod and leaves a more jagged looking trench.