best way to remove existing lawn, install loam and re-seed

[Wickaboxet]

I have a BX24 and am wondering what the best way to remove and re-install lawn. A little grading work needs to be done, but I am not sure of what attachments are most useful for this and projects in the future

Thanks!

 

[BXpanded]

My Suggestions:
Start by spraying the lawn with Round-Up or generic equivalent, non-selective herbicide. Wait 2 weeks and re-apply to take care of any weed seeds that might sprout.

Rent a Harley rake and and pulverize the existing sod and add any soil amendments, compost, loam, etc. you might need. With the FEL and the Harley rake, you can level and regrade as desired. A tiller will substitute for the power rake.

Install an irrigation system. (It's really quite easy.)

Soil test, add fertilizers and lime as needed.

Sow good quality grass seed, drag lightly to cover, roll, straw, and water twice a day.

Cool season grasses do best if seeded in the fall but it can be done in the spring if you have irrigation. Some people add Annual Rye Grass seed to get a quick cover and prevent erosion. It sprouts quickly and in warm climates it dies in the summer and doesn't re-emerge.

 

[Wickaboxet]

Thanks for the response. Not sure if you are the person who I just bought the bucket expander!!!! (Wickaboxet ring a bell???) Expecting it monday! Looking forward to using it!!!

Appeciate your time!

 

[aggiehortguy91]

I absolutely agree with BXpanded, except for the rolling part. I would skip that.

Depending on your soil is going to determine what tools you will need to prepare the ground. In loam, you may be surprised what you can do with just a rake. We always used a field cultivator to break everything up and then a york rake to smooth it all back out. We used a chain harrow to bed the seed, but a piece of chainlink fence or just drag a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 around sideways. If you have never done this before, you are going to be surprised at how much "stuff" you are going to end up with.

If it is only isolated areas that need attention, maybe you can just topdress with a boxblade and reseed? If you are in a cooler climate, I would avoid the annual rye since it becomes a weed. There are several perennial ryes that can be used in a blend that make a much nicer lawn if you need speed. We always used a perennial rye, fescue, bluegrass blend when planting in IN.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I performed this very task on approximately 1 acre the October before last. I removed trees, spread 60 CY of screened topsoil, had a sprinkler system installed (only item I contracted out), aerated, seeded, fertilized, and waited. I now have CONSISTENTLY the best lawn in our neighborhood, even under a dense tree stand.

I don't have a really good picture of entire old yard because it was so fugly, but looking at the ground in the "old yard" picture, imagine that over 2/3 of the acre I'm talking about.

The tools I used: 1 unmodified BX2230 with FEL, 1 4' box blade, 1 core aerator, 1 tow-behind spreader, 1 standard issue garden rake.

The tools I WISHED I had: 1 York/Landscaping rake. This would have made a HUGE difference in the labor associated with ground roots and final grade preparation.

I DID NOT apply Round-Up to the existing lawn. Don't see a need unless you have a massive weed issue. If you have a few weeds, apply some Scotts...then you'll get some mileage out of the deep fertilizer.

Also, don't think you'll do this and that will be it. You'll have to do 'touch up' later on thin areas or fill areas that settle. Just try and hit the big chunks the first time out.

And use QUALITY grass seed. DON'T GO TO A BIG BOX. Go to a landscaping center and spend the extra on quality seed mixes/blends based on your region and general planting condition (sun/shade). I went to my local "Lesco" dealer. My shade mix cost me $100 a bag...and you can see what it got me. I have never purchased a bag of "Big Box" seed that I haven't been extremely disappointed with.

And I did this in October...probably a month after I should have, but it turned out to be a warm December so all was well. I'd suggest this to be a late September project to ensure good results. Otherwise, I worry you'd be dealing with weeds. And grass doesn't like to do much over 90 degrees.

It is very easy. Feel free to PM me. If you have the tools I stated, you'll get it done very quickly and efficiently. You can try to install the sprinkler yourself, but my guy knocked 9 zones out in 1 day. Couldn't complain.

 

[Charlton John]

I performed this very task on approximately 1 acre the October before last. I removed trees, spread 60 CY of screened topsoil, had a sprinkler system installed (only item I contracted out), aerated, seeded, fertilized, and waited. I now have CONSISTENTLY the best lawn in our neighborhood, even under a dense tree stand.

I don't have a really good picture of entire old yard because it was so fugly, but looking at the ground in the "old yard" picture, imagine that over 2/3 of the acre I'm talking about.

The tools I used: 1 unmodified BX2230 with FEL, 1 4' box blade, 1 core aerator, 1 tow-behind spreader, 1 standard issue garden rake.

The tools I WISHED I had: 1 York/Landscaping rake. This would have made a HUGE difference in the labor associated with ground roots and final grade preparation.

I DID NOT apply Round-Up to the existing lawn. Don't see a need unless you have a massive weed issue. If you have a few weeds, apply some Scotts...then you'll get some mileage out of the deep fertilizer.

Also, don't think you'll do this and that will be it. You'll have to do 'touch up' later on thin areas or fill areas that settle. Just try and hit the big chunks the first time out.

And use QUALITY grass seed. DON'T GO TO A BIG BOX. Go to a landscaping center and spend the extra on quality seed mixes/blends based on your region and general planting condition (sun/shade). I went to my local "Lesco" dealer. My shade mix cost me $100 a bag...and you can see what it got me. I have never purchased a bag of "Big Box" seed that I haven't been extremely disappointed with.

And I did this in October...probably a month after I should have, but it turned out to be a warm December so all was well. I'd suggest this to be a late September project to ensure good results. Otherwise, I worry you'd be dealing with weeds. And grass doesn't like to do much over 90 degrees.

It is very easy. Feel free to PM me. If you have the tools I stated, you'll get it done very quickly and efficiently. You can try to install the sprinkler yourself, but my guy knocked 9 zones out in 1 day. Couldn't complain.

Beautiful front yard Keith!!

 

[aggiehortguy91]

Keith, that is a beautiful job! There is no lawn quite as beautiful as a fescue/perennial rye mix growing under filtered light as far as I'm concerned. A few dogwoods, azalias, rhododendrons, and hostas planted in the understory and you will have the finest lawn around anywhere!

Wickaboxet, this is definately what you are shooting for. Like Keith said, you can do it with a loader and a hand rake. But a 3ph rake w/guage wheels will make grading much easier. Knowing where and what type of soil may help with suggestions.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Keith, that is a beautiful job!

Thank you very, very much. Didn't get to overseed last year though I wanted to. Put a good nitrogen-rich pre-emergent down this spring, though, so I hope it will pop back. Temps are just coming up now. Definitely touching up and overseeding this fall.

...azalias, rhododendrons, and hostas planted in the understory

The down-side of living among the wildlife is the wildlife.

Planting Hostas in deer territory is like planting candy-corns in front of 4 year olds. Don't last long.

The master plan includes more stuff, but money has been reprioritized over the past year. Imagine that. It's not like I can go to HomeDepot and get 2 azalias...to do ANYTHING, I need 20 of them. Everything project so darn big, for better or for worse. We're slowly adding to it, though. May be picking up some mature juniper (about 15 of them) for free this weekend.

Not to highjack the thread or anything...sorry OP...

 

[aggiehortguy91]

The down-side of living among the wildlife is the wildlife.

Planting Hostas in deer territory is like planting candy-corns in front of 4 year olds. Don't last long.

The master plan includes more stuff, but money has been reprioritized over the past year. Imagine that. We're slowly adding to it, though.

Yep, hostas can be deer candy. At least you know your limitation before you spend money to feed the wildlife. And at least your wildlife only eats the plants, alligators and bobcats tend to leave the plants alone

When I lived in IN (Lafayette area), we had several clients with lawns like yours. They were fortunate (or unfortunate, depending how you look at it) to not have deer problems so we could use alot of the yummy stuff. You may be able to get away with a few if you use just a few and keep them close to the house.

Oops, sorry for the hijack. Now back to the regularly scheduled thread.......

 

[asylum575]

Keith,
Did you spread a pre-emergent the spring after your project? I did a similar project last year around oct/nov. Got a few sprouts, more showing now. Just wondering if the lawn is too immature to wee/feed. Maybe some light starter fertilizer? What did you do?