best way to remove existing lawn, install loam and re-seed

[KeithInSpace]

I deployed a fairly heavy seed and starter fertilizer load simultaneously in October '07 onto the raw earth. I covered with hay and watered it 3 or 4 times a day (to keep the seed wet) for about 2 weeks, then cut back to 2 times a day, then once, then every other day when it was going good. I didn't touch it the following spring. It actually stayed quite green through the winter because of the starter fertilizer. The "good" picture was from Spring '08 after the first mow of the season. No pre-emergent in '08. No straight fertilizer either. Probably should have done the pre-emergent.

I did get some weeds popping up mid-summer and I hit it reactively with Scotts weed/feed. The lawn was very well established before I did this. I did the same thing in the fall with no additional care. Should have aerated/dethatched.

By the fall, it was starting to thin a bit under the trees, especially where I turn sharp around trees. Some of the fine rye thatch was starting to choke out the better grass. This probably could have been remedied by an overseed/fertilize this past October, but money has been a little funny.

I'm back on track this year and it's greening up a bit. Still has some thin spots, but I'm going to spot-seed between pre-emergent treatments (I'm hitting again in May). That should be it until the fall when I'm doing some patchwork, overseed, and fertilize.

Hope that answers your question.

 

[pintodeluxe]

Steps for lawn install:
1. Spray broad-spectrum herbicide. Wait until weeds and grass are white/yellow.
re-apply as needed.
2. Rototill to a depth of 6"
3. Evaluate soil for FERTILITY and TEXTURE.
FERTILITY: check soil pH which should be around 7 for ryegrass and fine fescue. An inexpensive pH tester will list the pH range for different types of grass seed.
Starter fertilizer should be added to speed up the germination process and promote a deep green color. Lime can be added to increase pH.
TEXTURE: check soil for clay content. If the soil will stick together in your hand, it has too much clay. Ammend with screened topsoil (not 3-way soil which contains bark dust and is frequently too acidic). 3-way soil is also too fluffy, and compacts after it has been graded, leading to dips in your yard.
4. Grade with boxblade. Angle boxblade to be progressively less aggressive (adjust by using the top link). You will find there is little or no raking to be done.
5. If you have rocks or debris in your soil, use a landscape rake with gauge wheels to remove debris. The rake will also leave shallow lines in the soil which help to prevent grass seed from irroding.
6. Spread the appropriate grass seed with a walk-behind spreader. In the pacific NW we use perenial ryegrass and short fescue. Do not use Kentucky Bluegrass in cool or cold climates.
7. Cover seed with pure peat moss. Use a cage roller to distribute the peat moss (Home Depot rents these for $10 per day).
8. Water 1-2x daily untill grass is fully germinated.
9. Once grass is established, control weeds with Weedmaster broadleaf spray. Use a tow-behind sprayer for best results.

Best of Luck!

 

[OlderToday]

When you spread the grass seed, make sure to you get down the correct quantity using the bag's weight and pounds per square feet listed on the bag. If a 5 pound bag lists its coverage for NEW lawns as 5000 sqft, make sure you use a full pound per 1000 sqft. Don't blindly trust your spreader's indicator.