You want SS or brass insert/barbed fittings; no galvanized. Two opposing clamps per pipe end/fitting, meaning the screws point opposite each other and are 180 degrees apart (one on top/ or left and the other on the bottom or right side.
I would have gone wit ha 500' roll and a 100' roll to limit fittings.
These materials have been used all over the east coast for decades for underground water lines from wells etc. and to 500' deep in wells. The fittings and hose clamps are meant to be buried unprotected. No tape etc. on them; that could trap moisture or water and is not a good idea (no matter anyone's fears lol). And buy the tee handle torque wrench for the hose clamps, they are to be tightened to IIRC, 6 inch lbs but check on that. Primary cause of failure is over tightening them. I let the wrench click and then I go another half turn with another wrench or nut driver if my torque wrench doesn't have the feature to allow going past the click.
The reason for the higher rated tubing is due to the stones and rocks having a much harder time of poking through than they would with the 75, 100, 125 or 160 psi rated pipe; the wall is thicker as the rating goes up.
Allow for expansion and contraction of the pipe by weaving from side to side in the trench. Do not overheat the pipe to get the insert/barbed fittings in. If the warmed end kinks as you push the fitting in, you overheated it and the material has failed, cut the pipe off and redo the fitting. Over heating voids the warranty but more importantly, ruins the integrity of the material. You can not kink 160 or 200 rated pipe unless you try very hard. Overheating is considered as anything over say 100f. You must heat evenly inside and out side just to the length of the insert part of the fitting to its shoulder. The 200 psi will be very stiff until you heat it too much. Start the fitting straight and pound it in with a block of wood and hammer etc.. Clamp after without tightening and then after the pipe is air temp, tighten the clamps. Otherwise you make poorly sealed joints because of the softened pipe and the insert fitting barbs.
Unrolling a 500' roll is a one(larger) man job. The coil is taped about every 50-100 feet, so don't cut but the outside layer of tape and then the next as you unroll the roll. There are foot marking every 2', so you can see where you are in the roll. I can't lift a 500' roll but I can lift one side and tumble it of my pickup tailgate and stand it up. It rolls easily, just don't drop it in the ditch. Unroll from the ditch side of the roll.
I would attach the one end to where it is going to be attached and then unroll to the far end. I would not back fill for a an hour or more so as to allow the pipe to expand/contract as it wants to.
The tubing under the house.... it could be PB (polybutylene) gray, blue/gray thin walled tubing which came in rolls or 10-20' straight pieces. It is not longer made in the US and was replaced by PEX. It will be marked as to what it is every two feet with the feet marking, size and rating. Federal law requires that on all potable water line materials.
You can unroll and install 600' of PE in maybe an hour and a half. Do not allow any dirt etc. into the tubing. Lay towels under it where you are going to use any couplers. Then flush the line from the pump open discharge before allowing the water into the house plumbing. So above where I said attach it, don't, just unroll allowing a few extra feet and don't pull it past the connection point.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
