Best way to smooth this out? Tilled land.

[g8erh8er]

Pictures don't look that bad to me.

I've been working some clear-cut land with disc harrows and a landscape rake. Not perfect but good enough.

In my case I have dug the stumps out.

I wish I had a tiller.

Doesn't seem like a tiller would be happy in ground stumps.

From a distance our land looks beautiful, but don't try and run on it, or you'll end up with a broken ankle. I have some holes that are more than a foot deep and impossible to see until the tractor is dipping to the side. Mowing it is not fun.

I love the tiller so far. Gets things nice and fluffy. Fortunately there's been enough time between the stump grinding and present day that everything has rotted. I wouldn't try it if the stumps were oak or some other hardwood.

 

[oosik]

Disk harrow - rectangular pattern followed by angular pattern. Then Land Plane Grading scraper with scarifiers set low.

 

[rangerfredbob]

In my back section it was pretty rough when I moved in, I got a cheap pull type disc that was about 50% bigger than my tractor could handle but I took one summer to get it disced up, then took the high points out with the box scraper and moved them into the low points, disced some more, took a spring tooth harrow to it and a spike tooth harrow and called it, was pretty good for a while. Now 3 years later the voles and gophers have ruined it again... now I have a 3pt disc that's more reasonably sized for the tractor and is fully adjustable front and back independently... Maybe next summer I'll get to that, I have at least 4 more gophers left and thousands of voles but that's a never ending battle I'm sure...

 

[JohnnyMX]

It seems like anything you try to drag is going to get clumped up with grass. I'd till it again to break that stuff up more or rake it off. If you have gauge wheels on your rake you could try that as well to keep you from digging too much. Using the rake backwards just digs harder unless your are on the 3pt lever constantly. I just did 2 small plots and the rake worked but it took a few passes. I did it mostly to get all the rocks out but it did smooth it out as well. Years of grass when tilled just left a ton of clods and I had no way to turn them over.

 

[Egon]

Cultivate and a drag done till you are happy.

 

[Mat4644]

Cultivate and a drag done till you are happy.

Two thumbs up. No expensive equipment needed. Just a drag of your choice.

 

[TractorGuy]

From a distance our land looks beautiful, but don't try and run on it, or you'll end up with a broken ankle. I have some holes that are more than a foot deep and impossible to see until the tractor is dipping to the side. Mowing it is not fun.

I love the tiller so far. Gets things nice and fluffy. Fortunately there's been enough time between the stump grinding and present day that everything has rotted. I wouldn't try it if the stumps were oak or some other hardwood.

Sounds typical for stumps having been ground rather than dug out and hiles filled.

 

[g8erh8er]

It seems like anything you try to drag is going to get clumped up with grass. I'd till it again to break that stuff up more or rake it off. If you have gauge wheels on your rake you could try that as well to keep you from digging too much. Using the rake backwards just digs harder unless your are on the 3pt lever constantly. I just did 2 small plots and the rake worked but it took a few passes. I did it mostly to get all the rocks out but it did smooth it out as well. Years of grass when tilled just left a ton of clods and I had no way to turn them over.

I'm hoping the grass isn't an issue. I re-tilled the area shown in my original post and it seems to be mixing it in much better on the second pass. The pic below shows the second pass on the left vs. the initial pass on the right. As for the rake, the log will sit in the curvature of the tines and hold the tine edges off the ground a bit. Basically the rake will be resting atop the log and just serve to raise/lower it when needed. Will take some creative rigging but I think it can be done.

 

[ns_in_tex]

We had pretty good luck by hooking a drag (16"x15' I beam) behind our box blade so we could run with the box blade up and drag down. Hook chains so at full lift, it will lift the drag also. This way, you can relocate dirt with the box blade when desired, let it out slowly for the drag to finish. Or just use the drag. Can lift the drag if and when needed.

 

[arto98607]

I have pulled a 6 food wide JD blade turned backwards for final leveling out of rototilled & bulldozed ground.

It works out very good but there will still likely be some settling out after year or two and some spots may need revisiting, unless compacted well!








Suitable soil compactor for landscaping (probably an overkill for a pasture etc.):




Or: