Beta 1710 Hydraulic Nut Splitter

[JustinE]

I have a question or two. I picked up a hydraulic nut splitter to try and remove some heavily damaged nuts on some turning plow shares. I was able to get one nut free but can't seem to get pressure built up again to work on the others. I'm assuming it needs more grease. Unfortunately, it didn't come with any instructions and there aren't any online.

Does anybody know what type of grease this uses and how I'm supposed to add more?

 

[Peter 315]

Here's some info on it... 1710-HYDRAULIC NUT SPLITTERS

 

[DJ54]

I went to their website: Hydraulic nut splitters 1710 – Beta Tools and in the top right corner it says "contact us". I selected that, and there is a selection for technical support with an email only, no phone number. Might give that a try is no one responds with an answer.

 

[JustinE]

I went to their website: Hydraulic nut splitters 1710 – Beta Tools and in the top right corner it says "contact us". I selected that, and there is a selection for technical support with an email only, no phone number. Might give that a try is no one responds with an answer.

I have. I've owned it for a year and have reached out about 3 times. I've never heard back.

 

[5030]

Have a lot of tools but not something I've ever felt the need to have actually.

When I have a buggered on nut that is impossible to remove or in a location that I cannot get a suitable impact socket on, I just take my die grinder with a mandrel mounted cut off wheel and cut the nut through and then take a cold chisel and spread the cut a bit, apply some penetrant like PBlaster and then use a pair of suitable sized Channellock slip joint pliers and back it off. Much simpler and much less costly.

Sounds like your hydraulic nut splitter is seized up internally. Take it apart and clean and lube the internals with light machine oil.

In lieu of the penetrant, try heating the nut with a torch. Even a propane torch will heat it enough to remove it. Heat is always your friend with stubborn nuts.

 

[JustinE]

Have a lot of tools but not something I've ever felt the need to have actually.

When I have a buggered on nut that is impossible to remove or in a location that I cannot get a suitable impact socket on, I just take my die grinder with a mandrel mounted cut off wheel and cut the nut through and then take a cold chisel and spread the cut a bit, apply some penetrant like PBlaster and then use a pair of suitable sized Channellock slip joint pliers and back it off. Much simpler and much less costly.

Sounds like your hydraulic nut splitter is seized up internally. Take it apart and clean and lube the internals with light machine oil.

In lieu of the penetrant, try heating the nut with a torch. Even a propane torch will heat it enough to remove it. Heat is always your friend with stubborn nuts.

With these nuts, they've rusted in a way where it's like they have a hollow grind to them. The middle section is dished in. They also appear to be harder than a Grade 5, judging from the damage to the vice grips I tried at first.

 

[DJ54]

If you have an acetylene torch, maybe try heating them to cherry red, then try the Vise-Grips. I've removed more than several that way on old garden tractor shovels/shanks I've worked on if I'm not trying to save the nut. Didn't seem to hurt the bolts I did save, but these are only on garden tractor cultivators.

 

[dougtrr2]

 

[JustinE]

If you have an acetylene torch, maybe try heating them to cherry red, then try the Vise-Grips. I've removed more than several that way on old garden tractor shovels/shanks I've worked on if I'm not trying to save the nut. Didn't seem to hurt the bolts I did save, but these are only on garden tractor cultivators.

Sadly, I don't have a good torch setup.