rambler
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2003
- Messages
- 1,994
- Location
- MN
- Tractor
- Ford 960, 7700, TW20, 1720; IHC H, 300; Ollie S77
Pipe, like angle iron, will bend, droop, & twist. You need solid pieces of steel shaft that is hardened. It won't pay to build it out of pipe - won't last 2 rocks - I garrentee. Digging in dirt & lifting rocks is very hard work. The axle shafts is a _real_ good idea.
For my round bale fork lift, it has a clamp-on top link eye that can be slid high or low. As with any 3pt linkage, if you set it up 'right' with the exact same hieght difference between the upper & lower arms on both ends, and you make the top link the proper length, the 3pt will lift up perfectly parallel to the ground, full motion.
But, you don't want that - you want it to angle down a little to get under, and you want it to angle up a little to carry. Just like picking up round bales....
A hyd top link will do it for you, but that costs money - a lot of you need to plumb the tractor for it first.
You can just mount the top link on the implement several inches higher. If the distance from the lower pins to the upper pin is _greater_ than the distance from the lower pins to the upper pin on the tractor side of all arms, then the lift will automaticlly tilt down when the 3pt is down, and automatically tilt up when the 3pt is up. This can be slightly refined by adjusting the top link length as well. Generally a too-short top link will make it tilt up a lot, while a too long upper link will make it droop down when raised.
It would be best to allow the upper link to be adjusted up & down on your implement so you can find the 'sweet spot' you want - it will depend on which catagory hitch you have (1 I'll assume) and how long your tractor arms are, etc.
Just a note - some tractors have relatively weaker lower arms, and are not so good about backing up into a heavy load - they are designed to pull on the 3pt arms, not push. I've seen a few posts here on the forms about bent lower arms from pushing too hard. Might want to keep that in mind - shouldn't be a real issue for you, but a heads up for not getting too aggressive...
--->Paul
For my round bale fork lift, it has a clamp-on top link eye that can be slid high or low. As with any 3pt linkage, if you set it up 'right' with the exact same hieght difference between the upper & lower arms on both ends, and you make the top link the proper length, the 3pt will lift up perfectly parallel to the ground, full motion.
But, you don't want that - you want it to angle down a little to get under, and you want it to angle up a little to carry. Just like picking up round bales....
A hyd top link will do it for you, but that costs money - a lot of you need to plumb the tractor for it first.
You can just mount the top link on the implement several inches higher. If the distance from the lower pins to the upper pin is _greater_ than the distance from the lower pins to the upper pin on the tractor side of all arms, then the lift will automaticlly tilt down when the 3pt is down, and automatically tilt up when the 3pt is up. This can be slightly refined by adjusting the top link length as well. Generally a too-short top link will make it tilt up a lot, while a too long upper link will make it droop down when raised.
It would be best to allow the upper link to be adjusted up & down on your implement so you can find the 'sweet spot' you want - it will depend on which catagory hitch you have (1 I'll assume) and how long your tractor arms are, etc.
Just a note - some tractors have relatively weaker lower arms, and are not so good about backing up into a heavy load - they are designed to pull on the 3pt arms, not push. I've seen a few posts here on the forms about bent lower arms from pushing too hard. Might want to keep that in mind - shouldn't be a real issue for you, but a heads up for not getting too aggressive...
--->Paul