Big Tex follow up

   / Big Tex follow up #21  
I sure think a couple fet of rubber fuel line cut up and used as pass-thru grommets ont he fram members would go a long way to better wireing... just a couple inch piece at every place the wires pass thru or over a drilled or cut metal surface would be awesome...

soundguy
 
   / Big Tex follow up #22  
i would have been up set my self with that you would think that they would use a sealed wiring system it is the most efficant way to wire a trailer and last the longest but in the market they are in they have to compete with 500 otheir builders and it looks like they choose the cheep way to keep their price down during the build they must not think that they can justify a good wiring system in their trailer cost myself i think that it would help them sell it would be a good sales point


I like what you say about CHOOSING the cheap way. Like: Dont choose to install conduit to protect the wiring, but instead pay your "very experienced" welding staff to hand paint little swirly decals all over the 30' sides :confused::mad:
 
   / Big Tex follow up #23  
Well:
After rewiring most of this beast when I got it and Emailing my problems to the sales dept....with no response, I've ended up with another SNAFU that I had to repair from BIG TEX. After sitting most of the first winter in my yard, it became necessary for me to use my new trailer. Well some of the lights did not work. After troubleshooting ( my profession) I found the mess at the main harness splice that I care to exhibit. Poor splice job on all conductors, wires hanging out of splices, insulation that looks like it was stripped with a machete and a poor tape job. If this product went out the door at my employer, it would be a life safety issue and not tolerated. We all love our tractors and our equipment, but look at these pic's and ask you Big Tex Dealer if they have changed the quality of their product.

Sorry to hear about your Big Tex problems.

Lousy quality wiring shouldn't happen, but can be fixed pretty easily by the owner.

What about things like the quality of the welding and the electric brakes on Big Tex products?
 
   / Big Tex follow up #24  
I have a BT 16' 10K pipe trailer and have NO wiring issues at all...All mine is tight and sealed. I wonder if that mess is the dealer's fault?
 
   / Big Tex follow up #26  
KennyD echoes my post #7 on this thread. That looks more like a dealer hack job to me.

You hit the nail on the head...

Probably the factory wiring was screwed up during transport and they "REPAIRED" the wiring on the dealer lot...

I guess we all need to go over any future trailer purchases with a pre-delivery **** inspection due to the great "QUALITY CONTROL" exhibited by the trailer industry...

At least it's an easy fix but certainly aggravating to say the least...
 
   / Big Tex follow up #27  
Just bought new LED ($$$) Running and Tail lights for my 16 footer. Peterson brand. What did they send in the package to make the electrical connections? BUTT SPLICES.
Only one thing worse...."Scotch-Loks".

Solder and heat shrink.
 
   / Big Tex follow up #28  
Pictures of a good step by step solder job would be hugely helpfull to me. I have the equipment to solder but am not very good at it. I'll be freshening up my tri-axle over the next couple of weeks. I've used a junction box for the main 7 wire from the plug to the trailer. But I've used the clip on connectors for the wiring to the magnets. How do I best attach the brake wires from the magnets to the wires running from my junction box? Would I do home runs for each brake to the junction box? Seems like a lot of connects in the junction box?

Thanks guys,
Joel
 
   / Big Tex follow up #29  
Joel,
For the larger stuff like trailer wiring, I like solder paste. Make sure to use resin paste.
It cleans the wires and the melted solder seems to wick into it better. When you twist the wires together avoid the wire nut twist method into a point. Take the skinned ends and start your twist like you would start a square knot twisting the ends away from each other all the way to the end. 9I left ends open in the picture to show how they twist) Dab a little paste on it then touch it with the gun/iron and solder. This is called a "Western Union Splice". Makes for a more streamlined splice that you can put your heatshrink over it easier. I like a product from 3M called Scotchcote. I paint the shrinks with it after they have cooled. Don't forget to put your shrink tube on first. :)
 

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   / Big Tex follow up #30  
Joel,
For the larger stuff like trailer wiring, I like solder paste. Make sure to use resin paste.
It cleans the wires and the melted solder seems to wick into it better. When you twist the wires together avoid the wire nut twist method into a point. Take the skinned ends and start your twist like you would start a square knot twisting the ends away from each other all the way to the end. 9I left ends open in the picture to show how they twist) Dab a little paste on it then touch it with the gun/iron and solder. This is called a "Western Union Splice". Makes for a more streamlined splice that you can put your heatshrink over it easier. I like a product from 3M called Scotchcote. I paint the shrinks with it after they have cooled. Don't forget to put your shrink tube on first. :)

Excellent post by BigDad. That's the way I did my dumptruck body a few years ago and no problems.

I have bought several pieces of equipment over the last 10 years and I'm really disgusted with the wiring workmanship. I can wire circles around most "mechanics" that wire these trailers, dump bodies, trailer brake controllers, etc.
 

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