Biggest cheap tractor I can find for the money?

[crazyal]

I know with my 580K you can't turn the wheels around. Doing so would move them closer together. I think a 580C with a backhoe would do fine to clear land. I started out with a a 580K. If I couldn't drive up a hill I would use a chain around a tree (that I was going to remove) and use the backhoe hooked to the chain to pull myself up. After a few months I added an old dozer to make filling in the holes from the stumps easier as well as making roads. But neither works well for removing snow.

 

[Texasmark]

I have 5 acres of densely wooded rolling/sloping forest in southern Maine. I've been looking at 1980-2000 model garden thru compact sized tractors 18-30 hp 4x4's with FEL's and most good running condition units bring $8k-$15k. Ive seen a few industrial sized units like a late 70's Case 580c 2wd and a late 80's Massey 50E 4x4 with loader skid steer quick attach... these are within my price range and Im wondering if something like the 4x4 MF50E would be better for my uses?

Uses include heavy land clearing uses, tree/stump removal, rough site grading and finish grading for new structures, construction work for outbuilding work like concrete mixing and other uses, new trail making, brush cutting, finish mowing, snow blowing and plowing of about 1000+ feet of gravel roadway, trenching, rock/granite relocating, etc...

I only have 5 acres though so i feel like buying a big tractor like this is ridiculous on the other hand I would hate to buy a small 20hp and its not able to do simple functions like dragging out large trees from the forest. in a few years we plan to start trying to buy up properties around us though.

A large, heavy tractor, with good rubber can get by without 4wd. If you need to do a lot of dragging heavy objects that would work. Just ensure that height isn't a problem if it has a cab (nice luxury) or sun shade.

Nice thing about it, at least around here, the demand is low meaning the price is low. You can usually buy a 100 hp tractor cheaper than a 40. If you avoid popular models you may be able to find a nice, low usage unit to serve your needs. Even it it has some parts worn out, you have to ask yourself do they matter for what you intend to do. Service manuals are usually available. ebay sells lots of things of the sort.

A front end loader is handy to have and usually are pretty much bullet proof. Problems are cylinder packing wearing out and when extreme, inability to lift....rare that they get that bad and a $100 bill will will buy a full kit with change to spare. Not hard to change working alone once you figure out how it comes apart.....tractor boards like this one help with that.

The other thing with a large tractor is the three point can lift much higher off the ground and has more lifting capacity....nice to have with heavy logs.

Power steering is really good to have as long as it's not a show stopper.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

I've also found a local late 80's Case 385 4x4 with a Dual "Du-All" #110 loader, quick attach bucket, snow plow, forks. Owner says the following:

PLEASE READ THIS LINE: Throw out bearing is noisy at times and the clutch works fine does NOT slip but is adjusted about 80% of the way out. It has been this way for several years and will hold up fine if you do not ride or slip the clutch.

I've contacted some local small engine repair shops to see what the cost would be to pull the clutch, send it in to Fort Wayne Clutch for a rebuild then install the rebuilt clutch.

He's asking 9k

 

[terryknight]

my aunt and uncle have a mid 80 385 2wd with the same dual loader on there 100 acre horse farm, does everything they ask of it. has well over 2000 hrs on it now. around 2000 hours they replaced the head gaskets and did some valve work

 

[crazyal]

If you're thinking of buying a cheap tractor then you really should be able to do most of the repair work yourself. Splitting a tractor is not an easy job and would be something most wouldn't tackle but there will be lots that will put you in the poorhouse if you can't do them yourself.

 

[rScotty]

If you're thinking of buying a cheap tractor then you really should be able to do most of the repair work yourself. Splitting a tractor is not an easy job and would be something most wouldn't tackle but there will be lots that will put you in the poorhouse if you can't do them yourself.

Yes, and the opposite is also true. If you are willing to do the repair work yourself you can indulge yourself in an interesting hobby and save a ton of money too.

A generation ago, basic mechanical skills were common and that meant that used machinery had a value even if it needed repairs. But that is no longer true today. Your dollar will buy much more on the used market today than ever before. Much of interest and common knowledge about repair work has changed in today's world, but the old machinery, parts, and tools are still available - and at prices that make them very attractive. If you want to do this type of work for yourself then you will have your choice of many, many older machines that can be made to work like new for very little cost. Don't be too quick to jump at the first one. If you are willing to learn about mechanical things today you are in a very good position to save.

Splitting a tractor and replacing a worn clutch is quite simple. Anyone can do it, it's basically just unbolting heavy parts and supporting one end of the tractor while you slide the other end of the tractor back a few feet. Then remove and replace the clutch parts. It's a simple and common mechanical job - with the labor being 90% of the cost of the job. Not much is simpler, but it does require some ingenuity to support the two halves of the machine while sliding them apart and back together. But if you can do that, the rest of the job is easy. Ask any older mechanic for help the first time.

My own choice for a first tractor would be an older Case 580 or JD310 with a gasoline engine and a functional loader and backhoe. I wouldn't care much about how well it worked - as long as it would basically run and work at least a little. Also I would be very particular about all the major parts being there and none of them bent or damaged past repair. The beginner should avoid the "basket cases". And there is no need to buy a junker. Especially today, there are just too many good ones languishing for lack of very basic repairs. It's a great time to be a restorer.
Good Luck,
rScotty

 

[vvanders]

Yes, and the opposite is also true. If you are willing to do the repair work yourself you can indulge yourself in an interesting hobby and save a ton of money too.

A generation ago, basic mechanical skills were common and that meant that used machinery had a value even if it needed repairs. But that is no longer true today. Your dollar will buy much more on the used market today than ever before. Much of interest and common knowledge about repair work has changed in today's world, but the old machinery, parts, and tools are still available - and at prices that make them very attractive. If you want to do this type of work for yourself then you will have your choice of many, many older machines that can be made to work like new for very little cost. Don't be too quick to jump at the first one. If you are willing to learn about mechanical things today you are in a very good position to save.

Splitting a tractor and replacing a worn clutch is quite simple. Anyone can do it, it's basically just unbolting heavy parts and supporting one end of the tractor while you slide the other end of the tractor back a few feet. Then remove and replace the clutch parts. It's a simple and common mechanical job - with the labor being 90% of the cost of the job. Not much is simpler, but it does require some ingenuity to support the two halves of the machine while sliding them apart and back together. But if you can do that, the rest of the job is easy. Ask any older mechanic for help the first time.

My own choice for a first tractor would be an older Case 580 or JD310 with a gasoline engine and a functional loader and backhoe. I wouldn't care much about how well it worked - as long as it would basically run and work at least a little. Also I would be very particular about all the major parts being there and none of them bent or damaged past repair. The beginner should avoid the "basket cases". And there is no need to buy a junker. Especially today, there are just too many good ones languishing for lack of very basic repairs. It's a great time to be a restorer.
Good Luck,
rScotty

I tend to agree but I would caveat that it's true for popular tractors, finding parts on less popular ones can be a little more difficult. We just had the tach go out on our Ford 1500 and finding a replacement(used, pulled from another tractor) was not easy, much less new parts.

 

[jenkinsph]

Yes, and the opposite is also true. If you are willing to do the repair work yourself you can indulge yourself in an interesting hobby and save a ton of money too.

A generation ago, basic mechanical skills were common and that meant that used machinery had a value even if it needed repairs. But that is no longer true today. Your dollar will buy much more on the used market today than ever before. Much of interest and common knowledge about repair work has changed in today's world, but the old machinery, parts, and tools are still available - and at prices that make them very attractive. If you want to do this type of work for yourself then you will have your choice of many, many older machines that can be made to work like new for very little cost. Don't be too quick to jump at the first one. If you are willing to learn about mechanical things today you are in a very good position to save.

Splitting a tractor and replacing a worn clutch is quite simple. Anyone can do it, it's basically just unbolting heavy parts and supporting one end of the tractor while you slide the other end of the tractor back a few feet. Then remove and replace the clutch parts. It's a simple and common mechanical job - with the labor being 90% of the cost of the job. Not much is simpler, but it does require some ingenuity to support the two halves of the machine while sliding them apart and back together. But if you can do that, the rest of the job is easy. Ask any older mechanic for help the first time.

My own choice for a first tractor would be an older Case 580 or JD310 with a gasoline engine and a functional loader and backhoe. I wouldn't care much about how well it worked - as long as it would basically run and work at least a little. Also I would be very particular about all the major parts being there and none of them bent or damaged past repair. The beginner should avoid the "basket cases". And there is no need to buy a junker. Especially today, there are just too many good ones languishing for lack of very basic repairs. It's a great time to be a restorer.
Good Luck,
rScotty

I agree that if you are willing to make some repairs there are plenty of older tractors out there for low prices. In most cases the older equipment is easier to work on. Buy a model that has parts readily available, that is usually a model that had higher production numbers (popular).

rScotty is correct about mechanical skills too, today there are fewer people who are willing to take on even minor repairs. There are plenty of used tractors selling at low prices that can be easily salvaged by a person with mechanical skills. I am always on the look out for the right 100-200 hp. tractor and am willing to take on repairs that make sense financially. No need to buy junk either.

 

[rScotty]

I agree that if you are willing to make some repairs there are plenty of older tractors out there for low prices. In most cases the older equipment is easier to work on. Buy a model that has parts readily available, that is usually a model that had higher production numbers (popular).

rScotty is correct about mechanical skills too, today there are fewer people who are willing to take on even minor repairs. There are plenty of used tractors selling at low prices that can be easily salvaged by a person with mechanical skills. I am always on the look out for the right 100-200 hp. tractor and am willing to take on repairs that make sense financially. No need to buy junk either.

Yep, no need to buy junk is the big thing. Used machinery doesn't have the value it once did. It's a buyer's market.

My old buddy (we're both about 70 now) looked at a well-used JD310 backhoe/loader 5 years ago. You know the kind: Big, Yellow, 10K+ hours, and in use at every construction site the world over. Parts are universally available for JD310s. The engines and trannys are mostly bulletproof, but it needed tires, new hoses everywhere, the cylinders leaked, and every joint of the loader and backhoe was worn and sloppy. But it worked. The point is that there was absolutely no market for that tractor. None. He paid 5 or 10 grand for it - I forget exactly how much - and probably could have gotten it for half of what he paid. Nobody else was even remotely interested.
Anyway, he drove it home 30 miles, stopping to put on new tires. Then came all new hoses, replaced the oil seals in the cylinders, and replaced the bushings on the loader and backhoe pivots himself over the next six months. New battery and some clean up. That was all done 5 years ago. Honestly it would be hard to say that a brand new tractor would operate all that differently from his old one. It's tight, works fine, and has been perfectly reliable. Total cost is about ten cents on the dollar compared to new.

BUT.... this approach works far better if messing with mechanical things is a hobby for you.
And if it is a hobby, you probably already know what we've been saying in this thread.
rScotty

 

[fried1765]

Yep, no need to buy junk is the big thing. Used machinery doesn't have the value it once did. It's a buyer's market.

My old buddy (we're both about 70 now) looked at a well-used JD310 backhoe/loader 5 years ago. You know the kind: Big, Yellow, 10K+ hours, and in use at every construction site the world over. Parts are universally available for JD310s. The engines and trannys are mostly bulletproof, but it needed tires, new hoses everywhere, the cylinders leaked, and every joint of the loader and backhoe was worn and sloppy. But it worked. The point is that there was absolutely no market for that tractor. None. He paid 5 or 10 grand for it - I forget exactly how much - and probably could have gotten it for half of what he paid. Nobody else was even remotely interested.
Anyway, he drove it home 30 miles, stopping to put on new tires. Then came all new hoses, replaced the oil seals in the cylinders, and replaced the bushings on the loader and backhoe pivots himself over the next six months. New battery and some clean up. That was all done 5 years ago. Honestly it would be hard to say that a brand new tractor would operate all that differently from his old one. It's tight, works fine, and has been perfectly reliable. Total cost is about ten cents on the dollar compared to new.

BUT.... this approach works far better if messing with mechanical things is a hobby for you.
And if it is a hobby, you probably already know what we've been saying in this thread.
rScotty

I bought a used (1350 hrs) 1970 Ford 3400 TLB (gas) when it was 16 years old, and I was 46..
I wanted a machine that was strong, but not so big that it would not fit in smaller areas.
It was in very good condition (former cemetery 10' hoe), and I paid $10,000 for it then.
Fast forward to 2017: I will soon be 77 years old, and I still have my 1970 Ford 3400 TLB.
Last year I repaired all the minor stuff, and repainted it Cat yellow.
It looks like new, and it is at my disposal whenever I need it. (500 hours in 30 years).
It may eventually bury me, but I will NEVER part with it!