Billy Goat Outback VS DR Brush Mower

[bflank]

Just a follow on note. Since I bought my 18HP DR PRO-XL in June the price dropped by $250. So I called DR customer support gave them the order # and asked about their 6 month price guarantee. The rep checked the price, compared the deal and set up a credit to be applied to my Visa card - no muss, no fuss and very friendly about it.

She also pointed out that the current deal includes a 1 year warranty extension which was not part of my purchase - so she added that as well.

It's just refreshing to actually find good customer service these days.

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Just a follow on note. Since I bought my 18HP DR PRO-XL in June the price dropped by $250. So I called DR customer support gave them the order # and asked about their 6 month price guarantee. The rep checked the price, compared the deal and set up a credit to be applied to my Visa card - no muss, no fuss and very friendly about it.

She also pointed out that the current deal includes a 1 year warranty extension which was not part of my purchase - so she added that as well.

It's just refreshing to actually find good customer service these days.

I have a DR product also and have been very happy with their customer service.

 

[JimL1]

For folks with hills, the DR 16 and 18 has pressurized oil and gas.

More importantly for me is the DR is a system. Maintenance & upkeep are a pain (why buy 4 engines?). You can add a blade, a finish mower, a chipper, etc.

 

[Outdoorsy41187]

Hey Scooby,

I have a suggestion for you... Have you tried the Little Wonder Brush Cutter? You can find a local dealer on their website littlewonder.com.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Sounds like work I have done with the 54" MMM on my BX1500. Seems like ive done trees up to 2" in a pinch. Wouldnt recommend that, but 1" is surprisingly trivial,
larry

 

[Scooby074]

Hey Scooby,

I have a suggestion for you... Have you tried the Little Wonder Brush Cutter? You can find a local dealer on their website littlewonder.com.

Thats a real nice machine!

Looks more thought out than the DR or the BG. Solid linkage, hydrostatic and honda power.. Good choices.

How are they price wise compared to the DR? Are you affiliated with the company?

 

[wlinzer]

I have a 2.5 acre pasture that is now overgrown, mostly with tall weeds, and a tractor & bushhog can only mow about 1 acre of it, so I need something for the rest - some of which is (a) really steep, and (b) wet - even in a dry year. I can always wait for the wet part to freeze up and mow the brush down then, but the steep part is a conundrum. I also want something that mulches like a regular brush hog. Which one would be the best - particularly for the steep part.

I'd appreciate any help since these things are expensive and I don't want to make a mistake. Thanks,

 

[JimL1]

I have a 2.5 acre pasture that is now overgrown, mostly with tall weeds, and a tractor & bushhog can only mow about 1 acre of it, so I need something for the rest - some of which is (a) really steep, and (b) wet - even in a dry year. I can always wait for the wet part to freeze up and mow the brush down then, but the steep part is a conundrum. I also want something that mulches like a regular brush hog. Which one would be the best - particularly for the steep part.

I'd appreciate any help since these things are expensive and I don't want to make a mistake. Thanks,

Depends on "steep" and "wet" definitions.

I doubt if any 2WD tractor will handle a slope. I owned a JD mower tractor for 5 minutes once. IMO you need a 4WD or AWD tractor on steep slopes.

Nothing I've used will run in wet mud. Mowers are heavy. Most small tractors use lawn treads. Aggressive tread tires will tear up the yard.

If you're over 30-40 degrees slope, it gets pretty tough. Even if adequately powered, you still are wrestling a very heavy mower. Have to drive the tractor straight up and down. Even then starts getting hinky above 30-40 degrees. Can't handle much of a side slope at all.

If you use a mower without pressurized gas-oil, you have a big heavy lump that you'll have to winch or tow out.

What folks with tough terrain use is goats. They eat everything up to about 7 feet. I assume you could rent them from a farmer. Even if you bought them, they're way cheaper than mowers/tractors and you can eat them.

I've used a pole saw on brush in tough terrain. Works well. But it's not easy. The Stihl pole saw vest is expensive but the best.

 

[wlinzer]

Depends on "steep" and "wet" definitions.

I doubt if any 2WD tractor will handle a slope. I owned a JD mower tractor for 5 minutes once. IMO you need a 4WD or AWD tractor on steep slopes.

Nothing I've used will run in wet mud. Mowers are heavy. Most small tractors use lawn treads. Aggressive tread tires will tear up the yard.

If you're over 30-40 degrees slope, it gets pretty tough. Even if adequately powered, you still are wrestling a very heavy mower. Have to drive the tractor straight up and down. Even then starts getting hinky above 30-40 degrees. Can't handle much of a side slope at all.

If you use a mower without pressurized gas-oil, you have a big heavy lump that you'll have to winch or tow out.

What folks with tough terrain use is goats. They eat everything up to about 7 feet. I assume you could rent them from a farmer. Even if you bought them, they're way cheaper than mowers/tractors and you can eat them.

I've used a pole saw on brush in tough terrain. Works well. But it's not easy. The Stihl pole saw vest is expensive but the best.

Thanks - I wouldn't consider anything but 4WD or a self propelled brush mower on this terrain - everything here is either uphill or downhill - very little flat land anywhere. Even my hay fields are "rolling"! Goats are out of the question - you have to have really good fences, and I just have electric fence for my horses and investing in new fencing for a few goats isn't going to happen. Besides, the wolf who lives in the area would find them very tasty.

I stay out of the wet areas until they freeze in November, then mow the brush down and that has worked in the past.

I guess I'll just stick with my weed whacker and some spot-killing with Round-up for the hillside. I've got Wild Parsnips this year and I've got to get rid of it - nasty stuff!

Thanks for your help - I'll save my money!

 

[TonyOregon]

I rent Orec's flail mower couple times, it's different! Independent tracks and flail worked amazing!! I used to rent BG however after I tried orec's flail, I can't back BG or DR anymore. It does much finer cut than any rotary mower. It cut not only tall grass but also shrub or small tree without stress. I strongly recommend orec's flail mower!!
You should take a look at their demo video at Cyclone Flail Mower, track | Orec America

Last weekend i rented a Billy Goat Outback mower to maintain a piece of land i own. The mower was great on the smaller thorn bushes and heavy grass, but really struggled on any alders over 3/4". So it was back to the spacing saw and hand piling for the larger stuff.

I found the Outback was lacking the weight to push over the larger branches and seemed to jam up and stall the blade, not the engine. It also could have benefited from some sort of posi traction, because it always seemed to spin a wheel when you least wanted it. The back edge of the mower deck also hung up on 3-4" tall stumps from a previous cutting. The deck was set at max height.

How would a DR field mower cope with the larger alters, say 1"+? The alders around here usually grow in clusters of 3-4 "trunks" sharing a common stump. Would it have the weight to push it over and cut it?

How is the DR's traction and ground clearance? Would it hang up on the older stumps, or is the rear of the deck open? Its hard to tell from their website pictures.

After renting the outback, i don't think it fits my needs, however they are the only rough mower available locally and i really liked the Honda engine.

If the DR will handle the vegetation i need to control, then i will strongly consider buying one for next year, however, there's no DR dealer within 250 Mi. according to their website, so a hands on inspection would be out. Id hate to order one and have to send it back, even with their excellent return policy.

Hopefully someone on here will have used both machines and can do a direct comparison so I know whether the problems i had were due to the outback being a rental or just lacking in design.

I'm open to any suggestions for other machines as well. What about BCS? There's supposed to be a dealer in Halifax but they're $$$. Would it handle the alder clusters?

I'm still a few years away from my tractor and bush hog. It cant come fast enough lol.

 

[Scooby074]

I rent Orec's flail mower couple times, it's different! Independent tracks and flail worked amazing!! I used to rent BG however after I tried orec's flail, I can't back BG or DR anymore. It does much finer cut than any rotary mower. It cut not only tall grass but also shrub or small tree without stress. I strongly recommend orec's flail mower!!
You should take a look at their demo video at Cyclone Flail Mower, track | Orec America

Interesting rig,

Looks like its built from a Honda RotoTiller. Wonder what it costs?

 

[JimL1]

Couldn't find any for sale with a web search. But one site suggested it might be $2,500?

In any case, the key to working on STEEP land is pressurized gas & oil. Otherwise gas runs out of the carb and oil sensors shut off the engine. The Orec web site says: "How steep of a slope can I take the AHRC662 on?
We recommend no steeper than a fifteen degree slope due to the possibility of engine burn out. Please be sure to cut side to side rather than straight up and down for your own safety."

15 degrees?

 

[Happy Gilmore]

I have a Billy Goat with Honda power. Nice machine when used for what it's designed for. The Orec machine is really sweet looking, kinda like my Honda HS1132, but with a cutting deck.

 

[TonyOregon]

Not sure. However it must be more expensive than BG, because the rental cost is also higher.

Interesting rig,

Looks like its built from a Honda RotoTiller. Wonder what it costs?

 

[TonyOregon]

The track machine has small indicator for side slope. I tried it at about 15 degrees. It's pretty steep for me, but the machine was very stable due to track traction. I didn't need to use extra effort in pushing or holding the machine on the slope.
I think if you are familiar with the engine mechanism, you can use the orec's fail mower even over 15 degrees avoiding engine burn out. At your own risk though.

Couldn't find any for sale with a web search. But one site suggested it might be $2,500?

In any case, the key to working on STEEP land is pressurized gas & oil. Otherwise gas runs out of the carb and oil sensors shut off the engine. The Orec web site says: "How steep of a slope can I take the AHRC662 on?
We recommend no steeper than a fifteen degree slope due to the possibility of engine burn out. Please be sure to cut side to side rather than straight up and down for your own safety."

15 degrees?

 

[ragoodsp]

I have been looking at used Billy Goats and DR's for over a year and finally bit the bullet and purchased a 12.5 HP 26" pro DR. Brush mower. I do not work or have any affiliation what so ever with the DR company. I used it for the first time this weekend on and area of overgrow everything from sumacs to huge vines and everything in between. You could not look thru or walk thru this jungle of 6' high crap. I honestly thought the DR would get all tangled up with the vines, blackberry bushes, etc but I said what the heck and just dove into the area I have never in my life operated a better machine than that DR. It went thru everything I put in front of it. In about three hours I cleared and area of about 30 yards by 60 yards. The unit does hang up in reverse on like barberry hedge stumps but nothing to bad. I thought the 3 qt. gas tank (on the 12.5 hp units for some reason) was very small compared to their other machines that have 2.5 gal. but trust me, riding that baby for 1.5 hours I welcomed the break to refuel. My family could not believe what I had accomplished as our only other alternative was honestly going to be goats. Do not get me wrong it is not easy work but I went slow and I have to tell you the DR is a power house that stops at nothing. Well worth the money for sure. thanks

 

[JimL1]

I went with a BCS diesel which is modular with a PTO and let's me use tiller, rotary plow, grass mower (various types) chipper (various sizes), etc. Although I always modify things..... replace the painted steel flat bar holding the rubber on with stainless, Line-Xing the high wear areas, etc.

The top two DP models are great because they do have pressurized gas & oil which are important for my very steep property.

The BCS just offered more flexibility.

The BCS brush mower BTW runs its blades on a plate so if you hit anything the blades just roll back. Getting the plate off is a major pain, so my mechanic just drilled a hole in the deck (the blade bolts are on the top of the plate). Otherwise have to use a gear puller.

Enjoy your DP.

 

[jerrybob]

I have been looking at used Billy Goats and DR's for over a year and finally bit the bullet and purchased a 12.5 HP 26" pro DR. Brush mower. I do not work or have any affiliation what so ever with the DR company. I used it for the first time this weekend on and area of overgrow everything from sumacs to huge vines and everything in between. You could not look thru or walk thru this jungle of 6' high crap. I honestly thought the DR would get all tangled up with the vines, blackberry bushes, etc but I said what the heck and just dove into the area I have never in my life operated a better machine than that DR. It went thru everything I put in front of it. In about three hours I cleared and area of about 30 yards by 60 yards. The unit does hang up in reverse on like barberry hedge stumps but nothing to bad. I thought the 3 qt. gas tank (on the 12.5 hp units for some reason) was very small compared to their other machines that have 2.5 gal. but trust me, riding that baby for 1.5 hours I welcomed the break to refuel. My family could not believe what I had accomplished as our only other alternative was honestly going to be goats. Do not get me wrong it is not easy work but I went slow and I have to tell you the DR is a power house that stops at nothing. Well worth the money for sure. thanks

I bought a used DR a few years ago....it has a 10.5 briggs engine. The machine is a workhorse. I have cleared acres of blackberry bushes and small alder trees (1 to 1.5 inches). You're right....it's a work out but that machine does the job. Another nice thing.....the company is a pleasure to deal with. When I bought the machine....they re-registered it in my name with no problem. Had to replace the wiring harness on it a few years ago.....called them and they were really helpful. New machines are pricey but are made well and deliver what they say.

 

[Coyote machine]

Have Dr. F & Brush mower with 15HP Kawasaki engine. It runs well, has limited slip diff, which makes turning difficult, but does render good traction. Beware of cutting thick brush on any slope; I nearly fell forward while mower was climbing up a stalk and when it cut through the deck dropped down and I had to fight being thrown in front of mower deck. Scary as he*l. Otherwise tough machine and works OP to pulp while cutting anything in its path. Suggest turning off fuel petcock when done for the day, and running carb dry to prevent fuel from messing up carb jets, etc. Have had two carbs on mine due to it being run into my pond by wife, glug, glug, glug!! #%&!!! Current carb, replaced one, (pond incident), Dr. tried to rebuild, unsuccessfully, then they covered me on this new carb's install; is now creating 'hunting' at/near idle RPMs. This probably caused by my using ethanol containing fuel and allowing it to sit in the carb when not in frequent use.

I now use ONLY non- ethanol fuel in all my engines on all equipment, except my vehicles. They're on a diet of corn and water!:shocked::confused2:


For real steep slope guy(s): there is no easy solution, except possibly using a hedge trimmer attachment that can articulate, like I have on my Echo split boom weed/brush, chainsaw, power-broom tool. It takes time, but is safest method I know of, and the hedge trimmer attachment cuts and drops the weeds/grasses instead of spreading them all over the place which might help deter further growth in the area too due to vegetation blocking sunlight to new/regrowth.

 

[Tony H]

Don't recommend the BCS because when you configure the machine for the brush attachment, the engine hangs out way past the wheels. It is impossible to get the machine to drive through 'potholes' in the terrain. The BCS is a well made tractor but like many multifunction machines, they don't do anything very well. The balance is just not right either