Oil & Fuel Black Oil at 16 hrs

[SPYDERLK]

My second question is in relation to using my rear blade to plow snow. I have found that if trying to plow any snow deeper than a few inches I loose traction and the tractor "chatters/shakes" trying to regain traction. Sure don't like this feeling and seems hard on the driveline. Is this normal?

Thanks very much for any help

Merry Christmas to all!

....I should have also noted....I am running R4's...

Your engine oil darkening is normal. If cylinders and rings came already broken in in a new engine the darkening would happen slower, but alas. After the engine is broken in, soot getting to the crankcase will be slowed, but you wont notice because every oilchange the new oil will imediately rinse the inside of the engine and "look" dirty.

Regarding plowing - loading rears might help. We plow with a similar sized tractor with loaded rears and a loader. It does well forward in 6" snow with 7' angled back blade. It has Ags tho, giving a bit more traction and directional control. The fronts carrying the extra weight of the loader bucket helps them pull to keep aimed right. We move along at about 6-8mph so the snow throws a bit.
larry

 

[rjmack]

Willow, at 16 hours the rings have not seated yet and there is a lot of blow-by. Stop lugging the engine, very, very bad for any engine and more so while breaking in a new engine.

new engines are supposed to be loaded, especially diesels. obviously you don't run them so slow that they rattle and shake themselves to pieces, but i believe that you have to put as much of a load as possible on a new engine... running at a fairly low rpm, just comfortably above the destructive vibration range.

go buy a new cummins... the owners manual suggests heavy towing for the first thousand miles or so... at least, they used to... same thing with diesel welding machines, often the dealers hook them up to a load bank and work them hard for the first 10 or 20 hours on the meter. if you have ever glazed the bottom of a hole you were trying to drill in cast iron, you know what i mean... once those cylinder walls are glazed those rings will never seat, period. if you haven't got them seated before the glaze, that engine will never perform up to standard.


far as the oil goes, mine was getting dark at 50 hours for the first change, quite dark after another 80 hours, about 15 hours since that change and its still crystal clear. things have changed in the composition of diesel fuel. diesel engines used to require less frequent oil changes because the diesel fuel contamination of the crankcase oil was far less damaging than the contamination from gasoline... with the advent of low sulphur diesel, that has changed. i'm pretty sure they require more frequent service if you are running low sulphur. i dont think that oil should be black at 16hrs... sounds like something else going on.

btw, are your 3 point arms moving over and rubbing on the tires when the blade is angled?

 

[Transit]

Old advice dies hard. Please read up on this, it was true decades ago, but it is no longer the case. Unless you have an engine was designed to be broken with a specific breaking oil. (<1%)

The lubricity of mineral oil is now exactly the same as synthetic oil, under normal operating conditions. So, it won't make a bit of difference which one you use to break in your engine. In fact most high end vehicles are now shipped from the factory, with synthetic oil in them.

Yes true, but they are engineered that way.
Loading the engine dose not mean lugging the engine, it means running the engine at high HP settings and hi revs.

 

[rjmack]

Loading the engine dose not mean lugging the engine, it means running the engine at high HP settings and hi revs.

no.

running a new engine at high rpm is how you glaze the cylinders.

people don't seem to understand that anything below wide open throttle isn't necessarily 'lugging'.

 

[WillowLakeMassey]

new engines are supposed to be loaded, especially diesels. obviously you don't run them so slow that they rattle and shake themselves to pieces, but i believe that you have to put as much of a load as possible on a new engine... running at a fairly low rpm, just comfortably above the destructive vibration range.

go buy a new cummins... the owners manual suggests heavy towing for the first thousand miles or so... at least, they used to... same thing with diesel welding machines, often the dealers hook them up to a load bank and work them hard for the first 10 or 20 hours on the meter. if you have ever glazed the bottom of a hole you were trying to drill in cast iron, you know what i mean... once those cylinder walls are glazed those rings will never seat, period. if you haven't got them seated before the glaze, that engine will never perform up to standard.

far as the oil goes, mine was getting dark at 50 hours for the first change, quite dark after another 80 hours, about 15 hours since that change and its still crystal clear. things have changed in the composition of diesel fuel. diesel engines used to require less frequent oil changes because the diesel fuel contamination of the crankcase oil was far less damaging than the contamination from gasoline... with the advent of low sulphur diesel, that has changed. i'm pretty sure they require more frequent service if you are running low sulphur. i dont think that oil should be black at 16hrs... sounds like something else going on.

btw, are your 3 point arms moving over and rubbing on the tires when the blade is angled?

Thx for all the advice. rjmack- my 3 pt arms are not rubbing the tires but I will keep an eye on that.

Bases on all the advice I will keep an eye on my oil and ensure no engine lugging! Will also think about chains in the future....

 

[ray66v]

I will keep an eye on my oil

You really don't need to. It's going to keep getting darker, whether you stare at it, or not.

Relax, and enjoy your tractor.

 

[WillowLakeMassey]

You really don't need to. It's going to keep getting darker, whether you stare at it, or not.

Relax, and enjoy your tractor.

Hahaha.....thx, will do!

 

[Travis_R]

Back when I used Shell Rotella in my tractor, the oil got black very quickly. I've been running Amsoil synthetic in it now for about a year now (105 hours) and the oil is still pretty clear. It looks absolutely nothing like the Shell Rotella did after it was in it for a year. I'm not sure why, but it's the truth.

I do change the oil once a year, regardless of the hours I put on it.

Travis R

 

[Shazbat]

IIRC The 1635 owner's manual states something to the effect of only running it at full speed during the break in period. It doesn't specify what RPM that is, but I'm guessing it's PTO speed.

I've been moving snow around with mine (Just shy of 6 hrs now) using the box blade on the back (R4 tires, PowerShuttle, and rear tires are loaded with Rimguard) but I've been sticking to 4th or 5th gear and haven't run into any shuddering issues even with snow pouring over the top of the blade, or pushing already piled snow.

The tractor *has* come to a stop if I get the blade into the gravel on an incline, but I've caught it before it stalls.

 

[WillowLakeMassey]

When you refer to 5th gear, are you referring to selecting mid (turtle) range and 1st on the gear shift?

I would think the rimguard would be a nice help. Is it a concern to load the rears on my tractor if i want to mow my yard with a rear finishing mower next summer?