Blade sharpening questions

/ Blade sharpening questions #21  
OK, but why do you need to dress the edge with a file?

Because he doesn't have any flap sanders. :D

I'm no expert, but from my understanding you shouldn't get the edge hot when finishing it. A regular grinding stone will work as long as it's done right. Flap sander take a little more to get the metal to blueish point you're trying to avoid.
Hence a tougher edge. Right :confused:

Wedge
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #22  
I agree, Wedge. You don't want to overheat the edge, and of course the sharper (thinnner) it is, the easier to overheat it. But, as you said, that can be done with grindstone if you're careful. I just wondered if there was a reason to use a file that I didn't know about. As a matter of fact, I don't even have a file anymore; used to have several. But I do have a 6" bench grinder and an angle die grinder. And of course, an EZE LAP Diamond Stone for knife blades.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #23  
I agree with Timber. For the best sharpening I remove the blades and clamp them in a vise then use a flat file that is sharp. It really does not take very long and I have found you can get a much more consistent edge. By the way, I have used bench grinders, die grinders, and hand held grinders. If the blade is in bad shape I use a grinder but then follow up with a file.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #24  
I grew up in the days when I had to use a file on the garden hoe, yo-yo (weed knife), axe, hatchet, etc. because we didn't have any alternative. So now I don't use those manual things if I can find an easier way.:D But yep, the old fashioned files do a good job.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Bird,

sorry about that.

So what do you think is there something better in this price range?
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #29  
Bird,

sorry about that.

So what do you think is there something better in this price range?

I really don't know, but those look pretty good to me. I'm not sure what grit the stones are on the cheaper one, but it shows those numbers for the higher priced one. I'd like to try them, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money without knowing for sure that I'd like them.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #30  
I always think of a mower blade as an aircraft propellor.

When 'dressing' a prop blade, it was considered very important to file out nicks as the nick could become the start point for a failure.

The cutting edge of a mower blade need not be straight to work, just sharp and actually it is the tip that will do all the work as it contacts first.

Balance is also important otherwise you'll shake your mower to pieces.
You can 'guestimate' by visually remouving as much from each blade but the ultimate method is balancing the blade using a short shaft that sits on 2 knife edges mountet edge up.
With the blade on shaft sitting on the edges, the heavier blade will hang lower.
Simply grind off more from the heavy blade 'til the blade stays horozintal in the balancing jig.

But do grind, file out those nicks to avoid projectile launchings.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #31  
I can put an edge on anything including a pocket knife with a flat file. there is no better way to do an edge than by hand
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #32  
I can put an edge on anything including a pocket knife with a flat file. there is no better way to do an edge than by hand

Neighbor does taxidermi and he hand lapps razor blades as they are not sharp enough for him out of the box. Talk about an edge...

jb
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #33  
I'm with Timber.
I like a beefy 14 or 16 inch double cut flat *******; Nicholson or similar quality. Not cheap, but good for all sorts of big blades, axes included.
No risk of burning the steel - good tactile feedback and if you get a big, heavy one you can remove metal at a surprising clip with much more control than with a hand grinder - at least in my experience. Get and use the special wire brush for cleaning it and you will have a friend for life. They're also great for free forming or fitting steel if you do a lot of fabrication work. Plus, you can take it where there's not power outlets.

Jim
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #34  
Nicholson is all I ever use, You have to know when it is junk. Like any tool it needs to be sharp. Once it starts to slip in the sweet spot just toss it away like a dull drill bit. I started as a boy with wedges, cycles, Bow saws, Draw saws & draw blades, spoke shavers, chain saws you name it. I can set teeth on just about anything. Grow up on a farm and work in the field or the woods you got to have a decent rat tail. Put an edge on a Machete that will slice paper.Any one can pick up a power tool and make a mess. Do it with a cold file and it will hold the edge 5 times longer.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #36  
I have two bench grinders. The big Craftsman will grind the blade away if you want to do so. It'll barely start (and sometimes won't) in the winter time because it pulls so much juice starting up.

A ******* file with the blade in a vice would work but would be a bunch more work. I've used one on lawn mower blades. They're not quite as hard as brush hog blades, probably.

Ralph
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #37  
Another tool that I no longer have but found pretty handy for sharpening things was my bench top belt sander.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #38  
Actually, the HF grinder with the wet stone looks like it might be very handy. Having the water to lube the stone, clear swarf and keep the steel cool would be a real plus. The price is right - my concern would be about quality, having never bought a power tool from HF myself.
 
/ Blade sharpening questions #39  
I've got to agree with Bird. I like my bench belt sander for sharpening mower blades. In fact it may be because of Bird that I bought it. I do have a hard time doing my Gator blades on it and have resorted to a jig to hold them and an angle grinder.

Chris
 
 

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