blade sharping

[PineRidge]

We find it easy to remove the blades and hit them with an angle grinder. Once they are sharp a nail driven into the end of a 2 X 4 and held in the vise will suffice for the balancing job.

We do use a hand file on the backside of each blade to remove any burrs.

When you are doing the sharpening just don't bear down on the tool so hard that you overheat the blade. A damp rag can always be used in a pinch if the blade starts to get to hot.

Before balancing each blade use a stiff wire brush to knock off any dead grass or rust that has accumulated on each blade.

The blades will then cut just like new and without excessive vibration.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You still are. )</font>
Well blue .... you are probably right /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Truth be told, when I put the MMM back in service this season I did hit the blades with a file .... they were in pretty good shape from last season and just needed a little clean up.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That's been my attitude since I discovered that all that care precision is long gone after the first circle is mowed around the field. )</font>
It is amazing how quickly a really, really sharp blades will dull - razor's edge might not be the best thing.

When I picked up my tractor originally the dealer told me I might want to sharpen the blades as Kubota doesn't put much of an edge on them from the factory. When I took the mower out of service at the end of last season I had a chance to scope them out - he was right - the edge wasn't sharp at all ... it was flat .... about 1/16th or 32nd high. Even so I was really pleased with the cut .... very clean, with no frayed grass. Probably the blade tip speed,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Just pulling your chain RS. )</font>
No problem ... it needs pulled every now and then /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've been known to use use more precision than I need myself. I still sometimes carry a caliper and micrometer to the hardware store. It rally freaks out the clerks. )</font>
Yeah .... but ain't it fun ? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is amazing how quickly a really, really sharp blades will dull - razor's edge might not be the best thing.
)</font>

Well, I'm amazed at how long my blades stay sharp. Really, try it. Sharpen the blades extra sharp and reduce the blade RPM by 20%. If the metal in your blades is about like mine, you will be amazed at how much better they cut and how much longer they stay sharp.**

**Make sure the deck is tilted forward a degree or 2 so you don't re-cut the grass. I suspect this is a major culprit in short blade edge life.)

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Well, I'm amazed at how long my blades stay sharp. Really, try it. )</font>
Actually I always have ... on the Simplicuty commercial ZTR and Cub Cadet 782 - for some reason the blades seem not to stay sharp all that long when they have a razor's edge on them .... maybe it's the angle I was sharpening them or something ......

But I was amazed at the blades on the Kubota MMM when I looked at them at the end of last year ... they basically looked new ......

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( **Make sure the deck is tilted forward a degree or 2 so you don't re-cut the grass. I suspect this is a major culprit in short blade edge life. )</font>
Yeah, I did handle this at the end of last season on the Simplicity .... there's a set of check chains that controls the rear deck height .... I raised them up by one link. The Cub is undergoing restoration at the moment.