blade steel for tree grubber knife edge?

[kossetx]

Bob, If you will look, I pulled 3 trees that I took pics of, more that I didn't, and some I couldn't pull. If you will look at the reason for the post, your answer has nothing to do with it.

Casey, Please explain how to do the narrowest part of the V where most <2" trees will go. If your refering to something like a dremmel tool, can you imagine trying to hit 3/4" plate with it. A 4.5" angle grinder will hardly show any progress on 3/4" plate after 10 minutes of grinding it. I also mentioned bolting blades on, as in drilling and tapping the steel, and attaching the blades with bolts through them. Sorry I was not more specific.

 

[Defective]

Mark,

I'd go ahead with bolting an old lawnmower blade to each side. Old leaf springs would be even better.

If they are too hard to drill, temper them into submission then re-harden afterward.

Make up two sets. One beveled and one not. I'll put my money on the non-beveled ones doing a better job as the blades are thin enough to get a bite without sharpening.

Another benefit with the bolt-on edges...you can adjust the angle of the throat by re-positioning the holes in the bolt-ons.

 

[brewdog]

Nice Design you have too! I think all you need now is a few ground and pointed 1/2" x 3/4" x 1" long stock pieces welded on each side. Weld them on at a slight angle upward. This will force them into the tree trunk as you lift the 3pt arms and will let them release as you drop the arms. The thicker stock will prevent them from penetrating like a nail spike but stop the slippage from the bark sliding that annoys us so much. just my 2 cents.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob, If you will look, I pulled 3 trees that I took pics of, more that I didn't, and some I couldn't pull. If you will look at the reason for the post, your answer has nothing to do with it.
.

I'm sorry if I offended you. Please accept my appologies.

 

[Casey1]

Bob, If you will look, I pulled 3 trees that I took pics of, more that I didn't, and some I couldn't pull. If you will look at the reason for the post, your answer has nothing to do with it.

Casey, Please explain how to do the narrowest part of the V where most <2" trees will go. If your refering to something like a dremmel tool, can you imagine trying to hit 3/4" plate with it. A 4.5" angle grinder will hardly show any progress on 3/4" plate after 10 minutes of grinding it. I also mentioned bolting blades on, as in drilling and tapping the steel, and attaching the blades with bolts through them. Sorry I was not more specific.

I meant re-sharpening the V after it has been formed and then dulled by use after a while.

When trees get down to 2" I can easily pop those out with my fel and tooth bar so there would be not need to for me to have the V all the way to the very end. I am going to make a sapling puller as well and I am just thinking your lawnmower blade idea is good too.

As BobG_in_VA mentioned I am not trying to offend. Just thinking out-loud.

 

[EdK]

For what it's worth the few companies manufacturing something like this commercially use a beveled edge...

 

[oscer]

Guys, thanks for the replies.

Renze, Yes it would, tremendously. I wish I had a remote.

Chris, My sentiments exactly.

Mike, Your drawing is a good idea and I was thinking along those lines, but the teeth for the backside need to somehow be infinatly adjustable. If they were like 2 more spring loaded wedges for the backside...

Oscer, Yes, To be bolted on the top edge and to become the leading edge. I didn't know it would be that hard to make a hole in it though. BTW, I didn't know there were any steel workers left in PA. I grew up outside Pittsburgh and still go back once and a while to fish those pa streams.

MP

It may not be as hard to drill as I think. I've never drilled a mower blade but I know they're hard steel.I would try it with a regular high speed steel bit first and if it gives you any trouble then go to cobolt. They aren't cheap bits but work well on hard steel.

 

[3RRL]

jig or band saw (bandsaw is the best) a chop saw is an abrasive type (unless its a multi-thousand dollar cold saw) meaning it heats the surface and grids it away.

a bansaw ill actually cut the steel and keep the surrounding metal relitivly cooly to which will keep the temper of it.

If the steel is tempered (hardened) already, the band saw blade will not touch it. You would lose the teeth on the blade in about one second.
If I were you, I'd go ahead and just grind some "teeth" into yours and also bevel only the bottom side of the blades. It should work good that way.
Nice project and pictures too.

 

[KEG]

A small hydraulic clamp finger would help better than a sharpened cutting edge.

Here is a unit I built for just that purpose ...

 

[kossetx]

Nice, Another arguement for rear remotes. I wish I could afford some.