Block heater for a TN65D

[RickB]

As stated, RH side remove the large plug with the female hex. I have a 3/4x6" bolt with a nut welded on flush with the end of the threads. Had to grind three flats on the head somewhat to fit the metric hex on the plug. Not listed in the "special tools inventory" but works very well. A quick pop with the imact works best; those plugs can be really tight. Installation istructions aren't too bad once you figure out where the darn thing fits.

 

[MNkurt]

Ken: You won't be happy to hear this, but my $431.48 kit included the bolts. There's a dozen of the fancy male/female combo bolts, then also ten pair of regular fine threaded nuts/bolts.

The part no. for the whole kit is 710471090. Is this the same place you purchased the tractor? If they're looking for $21 per bolt, I'd say that's worth asking about.

Thanks to all for the BH install tips. I was going to do a little grinding on a hex shaft I had laying around, but maybe will do the 3/4 x 6" nut and bolt routine. Not sure I can get an impact by the FEL bracket, but will definitely try.

Here goes nothing........... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[KenPauling]

Hi Kurt ! I called up my dealer and asked about the price I paid and why the mounting kit wasn't included with my weights. They said they wern't included and the reason I had to pay so much more for my weights($50.00+) more than you was that your dealer probably had them in stock before the prices shot up due to the big price jump in steel. They said the additional cost for the bolts is set by New Holland and the price for the weights is also set by New Holland. Time to look for another dealer I guess. Ken PS I found the plug for the BH and I'm getting a 3/4 bolt and nut assembly made up to remove the plug. Its in an awkward place with the loader bracket almost covering the entire area. It should be fun removing the plug with my socket wrench.

 

[MNkurt]

Finally got at the block heater this afternoon. All my worries about getting the plug out were for not. That was a piece of cake. The thing I didn't spend much time fretting about is getting the heater lined up where it belongs!

I'm thinking I'm going to have to remove a fuel line in order to get the adapter plug tight. Can't get a 1-7/8" socket in there without doing that(unless I'm doing something else wrong). For some reason not much seems metric either. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Hopefully it's just me, but it's been real interesting keeping the element free while tightening up the big plug. When I came in the house tonight it seemed to be free with the adapter plug hand tight, so I think I'm getting closer.

Really hasn't been that bad, so hopefully tomorrow it'll look better. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

KenPauling.... did you get my PM from earlier today?

 

[Chuck_Lind]

Ken...are you dealing with the McGarvey folks in Reynoldsville? If so....I found their prices on everything to be much higher.

An alternative dealer is Maple Mountain down in Marion Center....Gary Johnson will get you a good deal on anything including parts.

Just my experience..

 

[bgott]

You can tighten that with a hammer and a punch, if you're careful. Put the punch, aimed in the direction of rotation, on one of the flats right next to the point. It doesn't hurt to have the tip of the punch overhanging a little bit. Tap on the punch and then go to the other side of the nut and do the same thing. You want to move from side to side to equalize the force. This works well for removal, also. I use a chisel sometimes because it will dig in and not skitter like a punch can but it looks kind of sloppy with the edges of the nut cut up. This is a common procedure for removing and replacing the hub nuts on the rear axle on pickups and trucks.