block heater not working

[OrangeToys]

So I've had my block heated installed for about a year+/- and for the last month it keeps tripping the ground on the receptacle (tried several). I've tried pushing the cord in more to make sure it was in all the way, clean the ends on cord and tractor side. Still no luck. My only option I can think of is by a new one?

Any ideas?

 

[diesel lover]

sounds like you have a failed block heater. Is it the freeze plug mount? if you have a multi meter I would tell you to check the resistance of the heater itself. If the plug end found at the heater is not corroded check your cord asap to see if the cord shorted out aainst the tractor frame or is internally shorted.

 

[8N Ren]

Try replacing the plug end of the block heater cord. That has happened to me a few times, the wire inside get stressed and break. Check for cracks along the whole cord from heater to plug.

 

[OrangeToys]

Try replacing the plug end of the block heater cord. That has happened to me a few times, the wire inside get stressed and break. Check for cracks along the whole cord from heater to plug.

Which end?
Im thinking the whole unit is bad. I just hope i dont have to replace the bushing the the heating element screws into

 

[8N Ren]

Which end?
Im thinking the whole unit is bad. I just hope i dont have to replace the bushing the the heating element screws into

It could be the unit.
The end I'm talking about is the one you plug into the wall receptacle, extension cord or timer, I don't know your set up.
The reason I say that is because you keep tripping your ground on the duplex receptacle(s) in several spots as you mentioned.
Every vehicle I've ever owned had a block heater and I've had to at least once replace the plug end, but here they snap off due to the extreme cold, like -45°C.

 

[diesel lover]

If not the 3 prong outlet end I have seen internally shorted cords as well as badly corroded ends found directly at the block heater. Just as 8N said due to the cold weather these problems occur more. I see more corroded wiring all winter than I do any other time of the year

 

[8N Ren]

I agree DL, somewhat on the same topic I was clearing snow yesterday and I nipped the end off my block heater cord coming from the house to the end of the deck where I plug in. Thought I had and extra end on hand but of course not lol. Time to stock up on a few

 

[PILOON]

I`d change the cord as the first step. If the heater is shot it would read open and no heat.
I experienced tripping breakers and discovered that I was connected to a GFI circuit! The slightest water or even snow on the connections would trip the breaker. Maybe that`s your problem.

 

[OrangeToys]

Just an update...
Changed the cord and the same thing happened. Next step i just replaced all of it a month ago and working as it should....until i just plugged it back in and back to square 1

 

[crazyal]

Is it a GFCI tripping? If so then you can check to see if the block heater has an issue with a multimeter. A typical block heater will draw 2 to 5 amps yet it only takes about 5 milliamps (.005 amps) of current leaking to ground to trip a GFCI. With a multimeter you can measure the resistance between both the "hot" and "neutral" connector on the plug to the ground connector. It should read an open circuit. If it doesn't then it's causing the GFCI to trip. You may find your only solution will be to plug the heater into a non-GFCI circuit. You could try to use an adapter that allows you to plug a cord with a ground connector into a two pronged receptacle.

 

[PILOON]

GFI's will trip at the smell of water, snow also will trip them.
Been there, done that!

Code in some areas demand that GFI's be installed on outside outlets That might be your problem.

Using an ohm meter across the heater should show low amp reading. A 0 ohms= open

 

[diesel lover]

GFI's will trip at the smell of water, snow also will trip them.
Been there, done that!

Code in some areas demand that GFI's be installed on outside outlets That might be your problem.

Using an ohm meter across the heater should show low amp reading. A 0 ohms= open

Completely makes sense to me. I worked at old dominion for 2 years as a truck mechanic. They installed block heater outlets outside for the trucks. These outlets tripped on a regular basic. There may have been over 100 outlets all gfi and at least half were tripped SO these trucks were plugged into a dead outlet. The instant tell would be that they all used lighted extention cords. The ends of the cords would not be lit and for us it would be an oh $H^% kind of moment because there was nothing we could do but pray it would start in the -20F weather.... usually did not. Even after loosing hundreds of loads due to trucks that failed to start OD kept the no idle rules in place. Even after going threw a lot of batterys... Did I say a lot?

 

[MHarryE]

Just an update... Changed the cord and the same thing happened. Next step i just replaced all of it a month ago and working as it should....until i just plugged it back in and back to square 1

I take it that it was in February or March when you replaced it that it worked okay, but now it's bad again. We are on the third block heater on our John Deere 6230 in its second winter. Not sure what is causing the short life now - possibly engine vibration? Just wanted to let you know you aren't the only one having block heater life problems.

 

[TomSeller]

I take it that it was in February or March when you replaced it that it worked okay, but now it's bad again. We are on the third block heater on our John Deere 6230 in its second winter. Not sure what is causing the short life now - possibly engine vibration? Just wanted to let you know you aren't the only one having block heater life problems.

What brand of heater?

 

[diesel lover]

I take it that it was in February or March when you replaced it that it worked okay, but now it's bad again. We are on the third block heater on our John Deere 6230 in its second winter. Not sure what is causing the short life now - possibly engine vibration? Just wanted to let you know you aren't the only one having block heater life problems.

Is it an actual block heater that mounts in a freeze plug or in a threaded portion or is it another type? And yes some brands do have a short life! Let us know what brand it is too. Don't forget to unplug before starting the engine. Some say it doesn't others say it does but it is said when the heated element of a block heater is very hot and you start an engine and let the coolant get pumped by it with the engines water pump it can be harmful to the element as well

 

[skyhook]

Your GFI could be faulty, have you tried another outlet without GFI.
Sometimes having long run extension cords put a strain on a GFI and they'll trip.

 

[OrangeToys]

Ive changed to other outlets and they all trip. But my truck doesn't trip them?

 

[jarokoro]

I would look at the heater, perhaps there is some air in the system and its burning the element, they are the same set up as a electric water heater and anytime they don't stay immersed in coolant/water they will develop a hot spot and melt the outer element usually copper or aluminum.

 

[crazyal]

It very well could be a slight difference in the way the heater was made. Or just pure luck that your truck doesn't trip but your tractor does. Since the currents needed to trip a GFCI are so low even the slightest leakage to ground will trip them. I've never taken one a part but I would assume that they are nothing more than an internal wire (like Nichrome) wrapped in insulation that has a steel jacket around it. Each mfg will have their own standard as to is acceptable as far as leakage through the insulation. Ideally it would be nothing but rarely in the real world does ideal happen. My guess would be that after using it a few times the heating/ cooling cycles has had an effect on the insulation. I would make sure to clean anything that looks like it could have even the slightest bit of water, dirt, or anything else of the connectors.

If it was me I think I would make an adapter that ties the ground wire from the heater to the neutral wire and not use the GFCI ground and not use the GFCI ground. If you use one of these adapters and the heating element really fails you could run into a safety issue. Since your tractor has rubber tires there shouldn't be any other paths to ground. There is the potential that the heater element's hot wire shorts to ground in which case the metal on your tractor would be 120v. The ground wire is designed to trip the breaker to prevent this from happening. With those adapters below you are required to connect the tab or pigtail to ground yet doing so will trip your GFCI. If you don't connect them to ground (as most people do) then you've broken the ground path.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Make sure that the element in the block heater is not grounded against anything in the engine cooling jacket. You generally have to orient them in a specific direction to preclude that. When I installed one in our NH TD95D. it had to go in in a specific direction. if you plug the heater in, you should be able to feel the area of the block around the heater get warm after awhile or sometimes you can hear a sizzling sound. You can also check for continuity.

Also don't have the heater plugged in with the engine running or the element can overheat. Most manufacturers specify this.