Block Heaters
- Thread starter Charliebrn
- Start date
- Views: 6840
.jpg)
JJT
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 1,957
- Location
- Upstate NY, USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3710 HST and a Kubota ZD21 60Pro
If I heat the coolant I heat the block. Convection moves the heated antifreeze. I had one on my truck, instant heat in the cab as soon as you started it.
Is it worth the bother to knock out a casting plug and insert a cooling jacket heater?
Is it worth the bother to knock out a casting plug and insert a cooling jacket heater?
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
don't think u really need a block heater, it won't hurt, but not necessary. as for faster warmup? u still have to let it run for x no. of min.(depending on temp) for the hydraulic oil to warm up enough for good operation.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
I used two last winter on my B7200s Worked great.
Jim,
Quite simple and no need to drain the oil. You will need to drain the radiator/block of antifreeze though and it is easier to do with the loader off and out of the way. Open the hood and there are two screws by the radiator on top that hold the engine cowling on, remove these. Now <font color=orange>loosen</font color=orange> the two bolts at the front of the BX hood hinge to allow you to slide off the engine cowl. It is plastic and slides off as one piece out the front of the tractor.
<font color=orange>You'll want the radiator to be cool so it isn't under pressure before you drain it.</font color=orange> The radiator drain is located on the lower left front of the radiator as you face it from the engine (or lower right as you are sitting on the tractor). There is a plastic screw to remove. You'll want a large, clean, drain pan to catch all the antifreeze as it doesn't have a good path to follow. You could be creative with some tubing and plumb it to the pan or just sit and hold the screw and let it trickle out.
The plug for the heater is on the same side of the engine (right as you're sitting on it) about in the middle. It unscrews from the block with a large allen (hex) wrench. I don't recall exactly but 17mm sticks in my mind. Standard right hand thread so counter-clockwise to remove.
Now put some teflon tape on the heater threads and screw it in and snug it down <font color=orange>don't over tighten it!</font color=orange> Once snug refill the radiator (you did put the drain plug back in right /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) and start it up. Don't be concerned if the amount that came out doesn't go back in right away. As the air is flushed out of the block you'll add more to the radiator. You'll want to let it run for 5-10min to come up to temp and pressure on the radiator. Now you can check for leaks on the heater plug and tighten a quarter turn at a time until all is good. There's only about 15lbs of pressure so it doesn't need to be torqued in, just no leaks.
Once that's done and there are no leaks you can connect the wires for the heater plug and screw or snap the cap down. Find a good route for the heater pigtail plug and fasten in place. A couple of zip-ties, wire-ties, or hose clamps work well but just keep it accessable but not in the way of getting hung up on something.
Now you can slide the engine cowling back on. Two people make the job easier as you'll want to have the hood partly down or off so it will slide on straight. The tabs at the back of the cowling (by the driver) slip into the slots in the body and the cowling slides under the bolts & washers at the front of the hood. Once wiggled in place these can be snugged down and the screws by the radiator replaced. If the radiator has cooled enough to be opened you can top of the tank and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
Michael
Quite simple and no need to drain the oil. You will need to drain the radiator/block of antifreeze though and it is easier to do with the loader off and out of the way. Open the hood and there are two screws by the radiator on top that hold the engine cowling on, remove these. Now <font color=orange>loosen</font color=orange> the two bolts at the front of the BX hood hinge to allow you to slide off the engine cowl. It is plastic and slides off as one piece out the front of the tractor.
<font color=orange>You'll want the radiator to be cool so it isn't under pressure before you drain it.</font color=orange> The radiator drain is located on the lower left front of the radiator as you face it from the engine (or lower right as you are sitting on the tractor). There is a plastic screw to remove. You'll want a large, clean, drain pan to catch all the antifreeze as it doesn't have a good path to follow. You could be creative with some tubing and plumb it to the pan or just sit and hold the screw and let it trickle out.
The plug for the heater is on the same side of the engine (right as you're sitting on it) about in the middle. It unscrews from the block with a large allen (hex) wrench. I don't recall exactly but 17mm sticks in my mind. Standard right hand thread so counter-clockwise to remove.
Now put some teflon tape on the heater threads and screw it in and snug it down <font color=orange>don't over tighten it!</font color=orange> Once snug refill the radiator (you did put the drain plug back in right /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) and start it up. Don't be concerned if the amount that came out doesn't go back in right away. As the air is flushed out of the block you'll add more to the radiator. You'll want to let it run for 5-10min to come up to temp and pressure on the radiator. Now you can check for leaks on the heater plug and tighten a quarter turn at a time until all is good. There's only about 15lbs of pressure so it doesn't need to be torqued in, just no leaks.
Once that's done and there are no leaks you can connect the wires for the heater plug and screw or snap the cap down. Find a good route for the heater pigtail plug and fasten in place. A couple of zip-ties, wire-ties, or hose clamps work well but just keep it accessable but not in the way of getting hung up on something.
Now you can slide the engine cowling back on. Two people make the job easier as you'll want to have the hood partly down or off so it will slide on straight. The tabs at the back of the cowling (by the driver) slip into the slots in the body and the cowling slides under the bolts & washers at the front of the hood. Once wiggled in place these can be snugged down and the screws by the radiator replaced. If the radiator has cooled enough to be opened you can top of the tank and you should be good to go.
Good luck,
Michael
hayden
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2000
- Messages
- 2,400
- Location
- VT
- Tractor
- Kubota L5740 cab + FEL, KX121, KX080, Deere 6120M
I can't speak for the BXs, but the Bs start right up in even the coldest weather. I've been through about 4 winters now in New Hampshire and Vermont and have never had even the slightest hint of trouble starting. I just run the glow plugs a bit longer, and it always starts up just a fast as in the summer.
I'd save the money and time for something else.
I'd save the money and time for something else.
cowboydoc
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2000
- Messages
- 6,725
- Tractor
- JD 8320 MFWD, JD 6415 MFWD, FEL, and cab, John Deere MFWD 4600, John Deere 4020, John Deere 4430, John Deere 455 mower, Deutz, and Gehl 4610 perkins skidsteer
For those advocating not having a block heater I think one is essential if you are in weather below zero. I've talked to several mechanics and they all agree that you should have a block in cold weather. In fact the kubota dealer himself here in my town said that it's like putting an extra 20 hours on your tractor when you start them below zero without a heater. I've heard the same thing from numerous guys who do this for a living. Sure they'll start but it takes a little bit for that cold oil to get warmed up and headed in right directions. Plus you've got less wear on your starter and all the other cold parts. Cold whether it's a human or a machine is a bad mix for making things work right.
With regard to the magnetic heaters they can be bad as they tend to overheat the oil where they're placed and cause it to go bad faster. If you don't want to do a block heater your best bet is to put in a very simple inline heater, 5 minute installation. These cycle the coolant through the engine over and over through the heater. This raises the temperature of the engine block and heats everything up. A block heater will save you time and wear and tear on your machine. If nothing else it's probably the cheapest insurance you can get for protecting your tractor and extending it's life.
With regard to the magnetic heaters they can be bad as they tend to overheat the oil where they're placed and cause it to go bad faster. If you don't want to do a block heater your best bet is to put in a very simple inline heater, 5 minute installation. These cycle the coolant through the engine over and over through the heater. This raises the temperature of the engine block and heats everything up. A block heater will save you time and wear and tear on your machine. If nothing else it's probably the cheapest insurance you can get for protecting your tractor and extending it's life.
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,581
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
The main reason I have for a block heater is not for easier starts (though that is one good reason as well), it's for engine longevity. Starts are the hardest thing on an engine. Clearances are different when the engine is cold vs. hot, and it takes longer to get cold oil to flow into all the nooks and crannies that need it.
If you have any doubts, talk to a pilot/owner of a piston engine aircraft (especially one in a cold climate who does not have access to a heated hanger). When I have to, I can start my aircraft in below zero weather, but I preheat below about 35-40°F whenever possible.
If you have any doubts, talk to a pilot/owner of a piston engine aircraft (especially one in a cold climate who does not have access to a heated hanger). When I have to, I can start my aircraft in below zero weather, but I preheat below about 35-40°F whenever possible.
JimMorrissey
Veteran Member
Michael,
Thank you for your fine instructions......one other question, is your block heater generic or Kubota made?
Thank you for your fine instructions......one other question, is your block heater generic or Kubota made?
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
On a tractor I might use one, I ordered one on a new Ford truck, a couple of years later it popped out, supposedly those always go first, even if the block isn't freezing. Since it was OEM it was of course put in the most inaccessible freeze plug. Cost $$$, tow bill etc.
Those dipstick heaters seem a lot easier.
It's not a matter of whether it will start it's more a lubricant situation. I've seen some electric radiator hose type heaters on some dozers that were from Alaska I think, they were easy to install, remove and had some sort of little impeller that went off and on with a timer I believe. All my stuff lives in a garage. Too much money to let them sit outside.
del
Those dipstick heaters seem a lot easier.
It's not a matter of whether it will start it's more a lubricant situation. I've seen some electric radiator hose type heaters on some dozers that were from Alaska I think, they were easy to install, remove and had some sort of little impeller that went off and on with a timer I believe. All my stuff lives in a garage. Too much money to let them sit outside.
del
