Blocking off radiator?

[SandburRanch]

I have a Ford 1720 diesel and in the winter the temperature gauge barely moved. A farmer friend said to block the radiator and now the temperature gauge will mocve to the same place as in the summer during regular use.

I bought a new ford pickup and when weather got cold it was determined the thermostat was stuck open . Warranty repair with the dealer telling me the stat was not for that engine . And i had a farmer friend that checked battery condition with a pair of Cee Tee slip joint pliers across the posts . When the battery exploded he was fortunate someone was there to lead him to a water hydrant .

 

[RalphVa]

This winter has been fairly cold for us (~5F, -15 wind chill- any colder than that, I don't blow snow). My L3901 is taking a long time to get up to temp and you really have to work it hard to keep it there. Thinking of blocking off the radiator grill with cardboard or some such.

Anybody have any experience doing this? Will keep an eye on the temperature gauge if I try it, the cardboard is coming out if things start getting hot.

Common practice in cold weather countries. Kubotas have temperature gauges at least. Do not need to get it up to temperature to start working it. Just work it easy for a little bit, to start. I have never ever let my engines sit there and warm up. My diesel generator driver, for instance, has to start and run RIGHT NOW.

 

[CalG]

My Fordson E27n has a soft canvas panel that is clipped to the cast iron sides of the radiator support structure, in front of the cooling fins and tubes.
A flexible flat metal clip holds it in the position desired. Engine coolant temperature is controlled by raising or lowering the canvas panel as required to keep the calorimeter, mounted in the cast iron top tank, near boiling. There is no thermostat. ;-)

Oh! The owners handbook indicates that clean fresh water should be used to replace loss from the engine cooling system. Check level twice per day. ;-)

 

[CobyRupert]

Can you do a squeeze test to check flow downstream of the thermostat when you start it? If unsure, take thermostat out and check its operating temp.

IMHO, letting a diesel idle to warm up is like having a cold air pump with a bit of little fuel sprayed in. Easing into the whatever you need to do will bring it up to operating temps faster.

Hmm… though on one hand, you don’t want rapid metal expansion when temps rise quickly. On the other, you want oil temps at optimal and don’t want wet stacking under cooler conditions. To each their own.

 

[PILOON]

At one time I owned a Volvo auto and it had a venetian blind in front of the rad.
It was controlled via a cable arrangement.
You closed the blinds for a faster warm up all while monitoring the temp gauge.

Simple but effective.

 

[CalG]

Just a note

Those realty "For Sale" signs, and outdoor political signs make GREAT radiator air blocks. 'Some sort of corrugated plastic.

We run them, full size, on the passenger car (Audi) and pickup (Toyota) all winter. 'might block 80% of the cooling area.
Shortens warm up time for quick trips, and never has shown any over temp problems. Been that way going on 20 years over multiple cars and trucks.

 

[Boss 302]

Yes, by all means block it off. In this case less air flow across the radiator is your friend.

 

[07wingnut]

I have a BX23 with a front snowblower, with the same problem that you have. This is what I zip tie to the removable radiator screen and the gauge goes to about the same temperature as in the summer.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

As mentioned above, I use a corrugated plastic political sign cut to fit so that it covers about 80% of the radiator. Makes for much faster warm-up times and allows the tractor to maintain operating temperature during the colder days doing lighter work like powering the wood splitter. Runs much smoother and more efficiently than when it ran cold without this setup.

I also work it hard with this setup plowing our 1/2 mile driveway and skidding logs, never had an issue with overheating. Like many other makes/models my 4540's cooling system is built to keep the engine cool while pulling implements in 100* heat, and as such is way overkill for the type of winter work I use it for. Without the radiator blocked off it would never get up to full operating temperature in the winter.

OP, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to block at least a portion of your radiator, I've had positive results from doing so.

Edit: On a side note, thought I'd contribute on this as well. I use the winter front religiously on my 2013 Duramax during the colder months, greatly improves warm up times and operating temperature conditions. Driving on cold days (less than 0*F) without a load I can hear a noticeable difference with how smoothly the engine fires. With the winter front off it'll struggle to reach operating temps and run clattery (not sure on the proper term for this) for the duration of the drive. Winter front on, easily reaches and maintains operating temps and runs properly smooth. However, I always remove the winter front for towing, no matter the outdoor temperature. The added load provides enough resistance to properly get the engine to operating temps and high EGT's aren't a concern with the cold air flowing over that intercooler.

Another important point, is the difference that an intact emissions system can make. The reason why you don't see many new trucks running winter fronts (semi's and pickups alike) is because the Tier 4 Emissions equipped exhaust systems are much more restrictive than their older, free-flowing, non-emissions counterparts. This added resistance greatly improves warm up times and the ability to maintain operating temps on cold days.

For example, when my Duramax was new (i.e. "stock") I never had any need to use the winter front even on the coldest days. Once it underwent some mechanical weight loss surgery that resulted in a freer-flowing exhaust system, it then started needing the winter front for the cold season.

 

[LouNY]

Running my RAM 1500 Diesel in the winter without the front cover resulted in very long warmups, a loose of mileage, and more and longer regenerations.