Snow Attachments Blowin snow and glad I got the xtra HP!

SacandagaBrad · Dec 15, 2003

When I was buying my tractor, I asked TBNers if the extra HP was worth it on the TC18 vs TC24. Most responses were to go for it if I could afford it. Am I glad I did (and could) /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif We received about a foot of dense yet loose snow, it wasn't packy. I'm running a Woods SS52 on the back and the tractor handled it well! Had to go slow in areas where I was handling the snow several times due to overcompaction, but that's why they make hydros. I know the TC18 would have also handled it, but I was able to place a far greater load on the motor than I thought would be possible and have to think the extra PTO umph helps.

But here's my question. Newbies always have a question and mine is the reason for posting in the attachments section.

I was running at PTO speed (2500 ish RPMs) and picked up a rock in the fan blade of the blower. Stopped the motor cold /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I mean cold!!!! I would have much rather seen the shear bolt let go than put enough shock through the drive train to stop a 24 hp tractor dead in its tracks.

It has bothered me that the manual for the blower lists a Gr8 bolt, 5/16" x 1" as the shear bolt in the drive shaft. Should I replace it with a Gr5? That's what most other smaller equipment such as walk behinds recommend. I live on a gravel road where replacing shear bolts are a fact of life. I run the top link short enough to keep the cutting edge about 1 1/2 to 2 inches off the ground. I would much rather replace the bolt, easy enough to get at, probably a 2 minute job. That sounds better to me than seeing the bowels of my tractor all over the road /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

What does everyone else run on a machine of this size?

Thanks - Brad

44trxfun · Dec 15, 2003

Brad,

I'm probably not in the best position to answer your question being new to snowblowin' and still waiting for enough base to run my new one. However, on my MF snowblower that goes on my GC2300 (23 HP) I talked to the dealer about a similar question last week. The manual calls for perforated Grade 5. He said they routinely run regular Grade 5 shear bolts in the Kub BX blowers (mine is dang-near a clone of that machine). I said I'd use 'em as long he'd stand behind it if any warranty work was needed. He said he would.

Thanks for asking this question; I'll be watching for feedback too! Happy Blowing!

jimg · Dec 15, 2003

I know exactly what you mean about having the extra HP. I too opted for the top end of the small chassis class.

We got about 12" of heavyish snow last night and I was very interested to see how that might change the time equation. (Our first snow was light and fluffy and moved real fast). It took basically the same time exc I needed to go a little slower when moving burms (no surprise). Im very excited how little time it takes to move *large* amts of snow!!! if this weather pattern continues then this is certainly the yr to have gotten a tractor and blower. Its great when it works out like this!

As for the rocks I too live on a dirt road w/ a gravel drive. However, I scout for rocks well in advance of the first snow and set the blower shoes as high as theyll go. This leaves some distance between the blower and rocks for the rest of the winter. I got several shear bolts w/ my blower. Tonight when I get home Ill see what they are. So far I havent ingested anything into the blower exc snow and a small amt of gravel. Its been cold enough so the road and drive have frozen solid so the danger of rocks has diminished greatly. A friend of mine was telling me he picked up a piece of sheet steel in his blower. Like you it stalled the engine and the shear pin didnt shear. He has a Deere 30 some thing HP CUT. He said the tractor seems OK but didtn want to repeat that sort of event.

SacandagaBrad · Dec 15, 2003

( However, I scout for rocks well in advance of the first snow and set the blower shoes as high as theyll go. This leaves some distance between the blower and rocks for the rest of the winter.)

I thought I had enough clearance with it tilted back, the rock I picked up was about the size of half a golf ball and is just the type of material the road contains. That plus the other folks clearing their driveways, traffic (both cars /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif), and scraping clean with the back blade, there are always some stones suspended in the snow banks. I was leaving about 2 inches of snow and not touching the ground when this one lodged in there. The road is froze, hopefully it will get better as the winter goes on.

On the Woods, there is about an inch clearance (from memory, I'm not going back out, sick as a dog today) between the fan and shroud it spins within, an extension of the back of the blower. In other words, not the cylinderical surface that the fan sweeps the snow through. The rock was just big enough to wedge in there, stopped the fan in less than 2 inches of linear travel at 540 RPMs, at the 12 O'clock position. It was out of plain sight, took a little trouble shooting to find the bind - lesson learned for next time. Tapped it out with a drift pin and hammer (with the tractor off!!!!!!!!!!! ) We also have some residual #2 stone around from drainage work, plus everyone on the road has a stone driveway, so I've polished (lightly gouged) the fan housing quite a bit. Will need a good coat of rustoleum for summer storage.

Brad

mgrick · Dec 15, 2003

Grade 8 is a pretty strong bolt to be used as a shear pin IMO.I've always used grade 2 for shear pins in a snowblower,there cheap and always break.I would rather be changing shear pins then to have what happened to you.I haven't broke the shear bolt in my RM blower yet and it looks like a grade 2 in it,its nice to able to shorten the top link and keep it out of the gravel.My FM blower on my other tractor has to be lifted up and down as I go over the driveway to keep from sucking in the stones,the skid shoes can't be lowered enough and if there's no base I'm breaking shear pins if I'm not careful.The RM is nice just drop it and forget about it.

thcri · Dec 15, 2003

Brad,

How about throwing in a clutch for your PTO. I don't think they are very expensive (50 - 60 bucks not sure though). But it sure would give you some added protectioin.

Just a thought

murph

jimg · Dec 15, 2003

I was thinking about this very thing but then it occured to me that if something really nasty gets ingested you probably want all power to the blower to stop immediately. That is, w/ a clutch there will be some amt of
power still being transfered to the blower which may make the jam/problem worse. What do you think?

PineRidge · Dec 15, 2003

I have used a Woods snow blower for some years. Mine is a SB60. It uses a shear bolt on the PTO and another on the Auger sprocket. Both are 5/16 X 1 and I believe they are called grade 4. They are not the harder steel and I normally pick them up at the corner hardware store. Normally the shear in my PTO lets go 1st but they are both very easy to replace. I have a long gravel drive and even though I have the blower tilted back a bit and the blower shoes are adjusted as low as possible I will still pick up an occasional golf ball sized stone. Some pass with the snow and some don't.

I have thought about adding a slip clutch but I’m getting real efficient at replacing shear bolts so I can’t justify it. I normally keep a dozen extra shear bolts & nuts in the toolbox so they are handy when I need them.

jimg · Dec 15, 2003

Ive not tryed the tilt thing w/ my blower...how much angle to you have on it? I recall another thread somewhere in this forum that talks about a device someone added to their blower to keeps rock from being ingested. I looked but cant find it. Seems it was a screen of some type. Not sure how that would work though.

The clearance between flan and housing on my blower is small. IIRC its about .5" or less.

My road isnt nearly so 'nice' as yours. The town just grades out the pot holes 3 or 4 times a year. They never add anything to whats there. In that regard its good b/c they tend no to dig up new stones and the soild is very sandy too. Frozen ground tends not to give up new stones too easily...that comes in the spring and summer. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I understand how those nasty rocks can sneak up on you....even when youre paying close attention.

Ill post again when Im home w/the grade shear bolts I got w/ my machine.

Rick Jay · Dec 15, 2003

SacandagaBrad,

Here is the response I got from Woods regarding the same issue on my SS60:

The response from Woods:

( Thanks for bringing that error to our attention, the correct hardness for
both bolts is Grade 5. )

***My original e-mail****

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 3:05 PM
To: info@woodsonline.com
Subject: Web Inquiry from www.woodsonline.com

Hi,

I purchased a Woods SS60 snowblower last year. It's worked flawlessly so
far this winter and I am very pleased with it.

Anyway, I'm a bit puzzled about the hardness of the shear bolts used on the
snowblower. Both shear bolts are the same size, but the auger shear bolt is
Grade 5 and the PTO shear bolt is a grade 8.

Do I need two separate hardness bolts? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of
having them be the same size? If I can use the same hardness, should I use
Grade 2, 5 or 8?

I'm operating on paved surfaces and I'd rather replace an occassional shear
bolt than risk damage to the snowblower gear box.

Thanks,

Rick

***END OR MESSAGE***

So...they both should be grade 5. I believe Woods gets the drive line from another supplier and they must have put the grade 8 bolts in.

~Rick