Blowing 10A Fuse- TC33DA

[Jsheds]

I went through this problem with my TC33DA (2003). I started by replacing fuses, then tried a circuit breaker. The CB worked for a while, but eventually that quit working as well. Sometimes it would trip every time I tried to start the tractor, other times it would work OK. I eventually installed the relay and it's been fine ever since.
Jim

 

[SteveInMD]

I had the exact same experience as Jsheds.

 

[cardenharry]

Where do you buy the relay that some have mentioned? Is it a dealer item?

 

[Ford850]

Where do you buy the relay that some have mentioned? Is it a dealer item?

This is a link to a thread that Jsheds originally discussed his relay fix. See posts 8 and 10 in this thread for his great descriptions.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...rting-problems.html?highlight=start+relay+kit

 

[SteveInMD]

I got my parts from...

Messick Equipment - New Holland - Kubota - Case IH - Tractor Parts, Sales & Service

You need a 86529089 (30 amp relay), and a 245731C1 (relay base), and four 255077C1 (terminals). Also, I got some parts from NAPA: 14 gauge wire, a fuse holder and fuse, 2 large ring connectors, butt connectors, heat shrink tubing.

I had to wire up the relay base. If you get the parts from...

Charles S. Snyder Inc.

they might make up the base with the colored coded wire for you.

It's not a very hard job but I'll help if you have questions.

Out of curiosity I removed my circuit breaker and put my fuse back in place. I haven't blow one since I did this fix.

 

[cardenharry]

Just some questions concerning the installation of the relay. I drove to the dealer in Lexington TN today and they did not have stock on any of the three items. They did not seem aware of this problem.
Why would we need 4 terminals 225077C1? If the red wire gets a ring, the black wire is grounded somewhere, the blue wire gets a spade connection. So, what are the 4 terminals 225077C1 used for? Do they connect the wires to the relay base? The dealer in Lexington could order the parts but said they must order 30 of the terminals and I sure don稚 want to pay for all those extras. Also, how did you insulate the connection when you attached the blue wire to the back of the starter. The tan wire has the white plastic.
Mine is a CaseIH DX33. No problem blowing fuses. Just clicks when trying to start on most occasions and after several attempts the starter comes to life. I have replaced the battery and cleaned cables and ground. They already looked good and that did not help.

 

[dqdave1]

I called Snyder and Sons at Phone (570) 386-5945 and they are sending me everything I need already wired ( relay base) for about $55.00. Nicest people; would recommend them to anyone.

 

[SteveInMD]

Cardenharry - Is your problem consistent or intermittent? If it's consistent, systematic trouble shooting is always the best way to go. However, if it's intermittent, as my problem was, you may have to resort to trial and error. The problem is that trial and error can get expensive.

If you have to resort to trial and error, there seems to be two weak points in the starting system. One is the ignition switch and one is the safety interlock circuit. Have you replaced the ignition switch?

I have to apologize for post a bad part number...the terminals are part number (225077C1) as you said. Yes, the terminals go on the end of the wire that plugs into the relay base. You can order them from Messicks, but if Snyder and Sons will make up the relay base for you it will simplify the job. You wont have to map out which color wire to attach to which relay pin.

If you have to do it yourself....

Red - Power source - pin 30
Black - Ground - pin 85
White - connect to purple or tan wire - pin 86
Blue - connect to solenoid - pin 87

All four terminals connect to the relay base. You need butt connector (barrel connectors) to splice the wires together.

I reused the insulator on the end of the purple or tan wire by cutting the wire and then using a butt connector attach the blue wire. The other part of the cut purple or tan wire goes to the white wire. You end up with 1 additional butt splice with this method. If you don't want that, a female spade connector without the white insulation piece with work fine.

The other change I made was to pull power from the the B post of the solenoid (the one where all the red wires connect), rather than cut into power wiring. So I needed two ring connectors, one for the ground and one for the power.

 

[cardenharry]

My tractor will start on first effort about 10% of the time. It is not any better when warmed up and in use. If you shut it down it may take several times hearing the starter click before it comes to life. I have not replaced the switch. I did take it off today and looked at one at a parts store in Huntingdon TN. The switch he had had four posts. One was for accessories if you moved the key to the left. If I did change out the switch it might be a little hard to decide which wire goes where. Mine has four wires. 2 red, 1 white and 1 orange that looks a little larger. Guess mine has a white wire where the previous post shows a purple. Anyone else have any experience with this?

 

[SteveInMD]

If you remove the wire going to the "S" terminal on the solenoid (the purple or tan wire, or white? - I 'll call this the S wire) and check voltage between the end of the wire and ground while someone turns the key, what do you get? If you get zero volts that points back upstream toward the key switch as the problem. If you have a solid 12 volts you may have a bad starter solenoid. If it's somewhere in between you may need the circuit modification.

The circuit problems can result in strange readings here that can send you all over the place looking for the problem. If nothing else, doing the circuit fix will eliminate some variables.

The circuit fix was not invented just for this tractor. It's often used on any machine with remote start panels or lots of safety interlocks such as yacht engines, generators, and tractors.

When I replaced my key switch I got the OEM part so I didn't have to figure out what went where. You can search for other threads here on replacing it, but you can check which lead always has power on it - that will be the power input (orange?), the white will probably be the S wire (however it doesn't go straight to the solenoid), one red probably goes to the glow plug timer relay, and I'm not sure about the other red. Maybe someone else can help here.

Give it a try checking the voltage coming into the starter solenoid on the S wire. Maybe that will tell you which direction to go.