Bolens G154 clutch adjustment

[Scott in ME]

Hello all - I mentioned in my introduction that I have recently purchased a Bolens/Iseki G154. I got it from a guy who never used it, and knew little to nothing about it. I have a few issues I could use some input on. I'll go through them one at a time. When in low range, the tractor will grind when I place it in any gear, and if I don't have my foot on the brakes, it will start rolling with my foot still on the clutch. If I take my foot off the clutch, it keeps rolling just as it already was. I can stop the tractor with the brakes and with my foot on the clutch, and it does not stall. I figured this was a clutch linkage in need of adjustment. I got underneath and found a bad hack by a previous owner. The 5/16" shaft coming from the bellhousing had snapped, and someone had done some interesting stuff to fix it. I tried to adjust it by turning the 90 degree piece that attaches to the clutch pedal (don't know if this was stock, but that piece threaded into a nut coupler). Well, I broke the shaft again in a different spot. There were still some 5/16"-18 threads on the shaft coming out of the transmission (isn't this a metric machine?). I used a die and lengthened the threaded area, made something akin to a long nut coupler out of a piece of stainless hex I had in the scrap bin, and threaded everything together. Now the rod pulls out as far as it possibly can, but the disengagement issue on low range remains exactly the same. I the photo below, the right side is where that 5/16" rod goes into the transmission. On the left is the 90 degree piece that attached to the clutch pedal. In the middle is my scientifically engineered stainless coupler. Note the very liberal use of anti-seize. I appreciate any insight this forum can lend. Is the lack of disengagement normal for these tractors?

 

[Topzide]

Nice find! I have a G152 Bolens and a 1704 White. Both gear drive. The 1704 I bought in none working condition. Had input shaft and coupler need to be replaced along with the link rod issue that you have. The rod is metric thread, 8mm, both rh and lh thread. If you want to fix yourself, Victor Machinery - Metalworking tools and supplies has the dies need to thread an 8mm rod. Some parts are available from AGCO dealers. Can fi d parts look up on their site. Just use White. Everything but engine stuff is the same. Field Boss 16 is closest model to yours. Let me know if I can help you with anything.

 

[Scott in ME]

Thank you. Someone has been deep into this tractor already, as evidenced by the 5/16 rod and non-metric threads. I ordered a reprint of the service manual. If it doesn't involve major disassembly, I would like to replace the entire rod assembly.

 

[Topzide]

https://apb.agcocorp.com//[URL] is ...I'd be hands on with you. I'm in Southern MD.

 

[Scott in ME]

I really appreciate the offer. I still need to know why when in low range, it feels like the clutch won't fully disengage. The tractor starts rolling once I put it into gear - before I let out the clutch. The linkage I made is pulling the rod as far out of the transmission as it will go.

Thanks to the answers I got here, I finally understand the bodge repair a previous owner of this tractor did. I understand that the rod coming out of the transmission is 8 mm, and I thought it was 5/16. Well, 5/16" equals 7.9 mm. Previous owner realized 8 mm rod was seized into the metric coupler. He snapped the rod. He fixed it by welding the metric coupler to an SAE 5/16"-18 coupler and made his own 90 degree bent fitting. Maybe the photo below will explain it better.

 

[Scott in ME]

Topzide, one more thing. The Agco link you gave me requires a login, and the site says I have to get that from my local Agco dealer. Do you have another way of getting on?

 

[Topzide]

You should be able to use the guest section farther down the page.

 

[Topzide]

Just double checked, still works. Search Field Boss 16, then hit arrow to go through the pages.

 

[Topzide]

I'll try to snap photo of the repair I did, weather allowing, in am. I'll also put cross reference numbers I have together also. I've put over 500 hours on the one along with adding a FEL to it. Had a hydraulic manifold made to add to the other so that I didn't need to cut and splice. Hope I can get you going in right direction.

 

[Topzide]

If I remember correctly, the rod needs to be as short as possible to pull rod which pivots throw out bearing to depress pressure plate fully. I'll also measure mine. I keep thinking of things after I send. The mind is the first to go!