Bolt on tooth bar installation question

monkeyboy22 · Aug 28, 2021

Prior to buying a tooth bar for my tractor, I did a bit of research and one of the things that I noticed was that regardless of who made the tooth bar, they were all installed in the same manner. The mounting bolts pass from the outside of the bucket to the inside and then the nut is threaded onto the bolt. It seems to me that using this method would bugger up the threads of the bolt as they are exposed to the dirt/rocks/mud/debris that is carried by the bucket. What would prevent me from passing the bolt from the inside to the outside of the bucket to prevent that?

/pine · Aug 28, 2021

It's not a big deal...personally...if after the nut is torqued and there was any thread protruding I would cut or grind it off anyway...inside or outside...which BTW makes no difference...

Also unless you need the smooth edge of the bucket for back dragging you'll likely not bother removing the tooth bar once it's on...

jeff9366 · Aug 28, 2021

Toothbars are shipped with the mounting arms a minuscule amount narrower than the measurements you provide. The nuts and washers pull the toothbar mounting arms firmly against the bucket sides. The combination of fittings acts as a spring washer, maintaining tension on the toothbar.

It seems to me using this method would bugger up the threads of the bolt as they are exposed to the dirt/rocks/mud/debris that is carried by the bucket.

The dirt in the bucket is relatively soft, so your concern is probably not an issue. However, outside the bucket exposed bolt threads are subject buggering in collision with hard dirt, rocks, stumps, etc.

Most, probably all, toothbars and fittings are massively over-built relative to your BX1850 subcompact tractor.

jeff9366 · Aug 29, 2021

I'm considering getting a box blade for leveling a few grassy areas and to level and "refresh" my gravel driveway which is about 60 yds. long.

Did you purchase a box blade?

Have you found box blade functional in your northern Virginia conditions?

PILOON · Aug 29, 2021

/pine said:
It's not a big deal...personally...if after the nut is torqued and there was any thread protruding I would cut or grind it off anyway...inside or outside...which BTW makes no difference...

Also unless you need the smooth edge of the bucket for back dragging you'll likely not bother removing the tooth bar once it's on...

Once installed I never removed mine either and now I cant. (imbedded soil and rust tends to weld)
What I did was add HD angle stock to my bucket 'heel' and back drag with the heel whenever I want to smooth 'drag'.

/pine · Aug 29, 2021

PILOON said:
Once installed I never removed mine either and now I cant. (imbedded soil and rust tends to weld)
What I did was add HD angle stock to my bucket 'heel' and back drag with the heel whenever I want to smooth 'drag'.

The only issue with using the heel of the bucket is it's hard to get a feathered edge...and it never seems to work as well as using the (toothless) edge tilted slightly forward of level and using float for the final smoothing passes...

Since I put my tooth bar on I've learned to do as good a job with my box blade as back dragging does...

monkeyboy22 · Sep 4, 2021

I did get a box blade as a matter of fact. Thanks for asking. I bought it from one of this site's sponsors. So far, I've used it to redress the gravel driveway, spread new gravel on it, clear a path in the snow from my front door to my truck and remove about 4" of dirt from a small area I use to store firewood. It has really come in handy for some of the tasks I would have dreaded if I didn't have one.

My next task is to rent a tiller to knock down some high spots where the septic system was installed 40 + years ago. After it gets tilled, I'll use the box blade to smooth it all out.

CoyPatton · Sep 4, 2021

monkeyboy22 said:
I did get a box blade as a matter of fact. Thanks for asking. I bought it from one of this site's sponsors. So far, I've used it to redress the gravel driveway, spread new gravel on it, clear a path in the snow from my front door to my truck and remove about 4" of dirt from a small area I use to store firewood. It has really come in handy for some of the tasks I would have dreaded if I didn't have one.

My next task is to rent a tiller to knock down some high spots where the septic system was installed 40 + years ago. After it gets tilled, I'll use the box blade to smooth it all out.

Does your box blade (BB) have the scarifier teeth? If yes, you can angle the front edge of the BB down by shortening the top link so that the teeth dig in but the blade makes little to no soil contact.
Make passes at different angles controlling depth with how much you lower the 3PH, then level the BB and smooth as desired. If need greater digging ability, add weight to the BB.

monkeyboy22 · Sep 5, 2021

Yes, it does have four scarifiers and I've used it to initially grade/level the gravel driveway. I've also fiddled around with the top link to change it's angle. As little digging in the dirt that I do, the box blade's weight has been plenty.