Bolt on tooth bar installation question

[monkeyboy22]

Prior to buying a tooth bar for my tractor, I did a bit of research and one of the things that I noticed was that regardless of who made the tooth bar, they were all installed in the same manner. The mounting bolts pass from the outside of the bucket to the inside and then the nut is threaded onto the bolt. It seems to me that using this method would bugger up the threads of the bolt as they are exposed to the dirt/rocks/mud/debris that is carried by the bucket. What would prevent me from passing the bolt from the inside to the outside of the bucket to prevent that?

 

[/pine]

It's not a big deal...personally...if after the nut is torqued and there was any thread protruding I would cut or grind it off anyway...inside or outside...which BTW makes no difference...

Also unless you need the smooth edge of the bucket for back dragging you'll likely not bother removing the tooth bar once it's on...

 

[jeff9366]

Toothbars are shipped with the mounting arms a minuscule amount narrower than the measurements you provide. The nuts and washers pull the toothbar mounting arms firmly against the bucket sides. The combination of fittings acts as a spring washer, maintaining tension on the toothbar.

It seems to me using this method would bugger up the threads of the bolt as they are exposed to the dirt/rocks/mud/debris that is carried by the bucket.

The dirt in the bucket is relatively soft, so your concern is probably not an issue. However, outside the bucket exposed bolt threads are subject buggering in collision with hard dirt, rocks, stumps, etc.

Most, probably all, toothbars and fittings are massively over-built relative to your BX1850 subcompact tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

I'm considering getting a box blade for leveling a few grassy areas and to level and "refresh" my gravel driveway which is about 60 yds. long.

Did you purchase a box blade?

Have you found box blade functional in your northern Virginia conditions?

 

[PILOON]

It's not a big deal...personally...if after the nut is torqued and there was any thread protruding I would cut or grind it off anyway...inside or outside...which BTW makes no difference...

Also unless you need the smooth edge of the bucket for back dragging you'll likely not bother removing the tooth bar once it's on...

Once installed I never removed mine either and now I cant. (imbedded soil and rust tends to weld)
What I did was add HD angle stock to my bucket 'heel' and back drag with the heel whenever I want to smooth 'drag'.

 

[/pine]

Once installed I never removed mine either and now I cant. (imbedded soil and rust tends to weld)
What I did was add HD angle stock to my bucket 'heel' and back drag with the heel whenever I want to smooth 'drag'.

The only issue with using the heel of the bucket is it's hard to get a feathered edge...and it never seems to work as well as using the (toothless) edge tilted slightly forward of level and using float for the final smoothing passes...

Since I put my tooth bar on I've learned to do as good a job with my box blade as back dragging does...

 

[monkeyboy22]

I did get a box blade as a matter of fact. Thanks for asking. I bought it from one of this site's sponsors. So far, I've used it to redress the gravel driveway, spread new gravel on it, clear a path in the snow from my front door to my truck and remove about 4" of dirt from a small area I use to store firewood. It has really come in handy for some of the tasks I would have dreaded if I didn't have one.

My next task is to rent a tiller to knock down some high spots where the septic system was installed 40 + years ago. After it gets tilled, I'll use the box blade to smooth it all out.

 

[CoyPatton]

I did get a box blade as a matter of fact. Thanks for asking. I bought it from one of this site's sponsors. So far, I've used it to redress the gravel driveway, spread new gravel on it, clear a path in the snow from my front door to my truck and remove about 4" of dirt from a small area I use to store firewood. It has really come in handy for some of the tasks I would have dreaded if I didn't have one.

My next task is to rent a tiller to knock down some high spots where the septic system was installed 40 + years ago. After it gets tilled, I'll use the box blade to smooth it all out.

Does your box blade (BB) have the scarifier teeth? If yes, you can angle the front edge of the BB down by shortening the top link so that the teeth dig in but the blade makes little to no soil contact.
Make passes at different angles controlling depth with how much you lower the 3PH, then level the BB and smooth as desired. If need greater digging ability, add weight to the BB.

 

[monkeyboy22]

Yes, it does have four scarifiers and I've used it to initially grade/level the gravel driveway. I've also fiddled around with the top link to change it's angle. As little digging in the dirt that I do, the box blade's weight has been plenty.

 

[kenmbz]

I have the PTB and take it off for my clamp on forks.
Use it lot in dirt and bushes, no issues with bolts or threads so far.

 

[DVVT]

I have one of these (Tractor Bucket Toothbar). It clamps on using large bolts so any threads are protected (watch the video to see the clamp-on version). One of the main reasons I bought it is the teeth are removable and replaceable. If they break I can get new ones. Also, I often remove every other one for increased digging power or wider-spaced raking. The only downside is with heavy use you need to periodically retighten the clamping bolts or it'll slip off the bucket and possibly bend. For really heavy work I ended up drilling my bucket and just bolting it on. This exposed the threads but I was still able to get the nuts off. You could always add nuts to any exposed threads to protect them. Good luck.

 

[Sportsman762]

I have one of these (Tractor Bucket Toothbar). It clamps on using large bolts so any threads are protected. One of the main reasons I bought it is the teeth are removable and replaceable. If they break I can get new ones. Also, I often remove every other one for increased digging power or wider-spaced raking. The only downside is with heavy use you need to periodically retighten the clamping bolts or it'll slip off the bucket and possibly bend. For really heavy work I ended up drilling my bucket and just bolting it on. This exposed the threads but I was still able to get the nuts off. You could always add nuts to any exposed threads to protect them.

I like the tooth bars with replaceable teeth. They are used on heavy equipment for a reason, thats because they work, and are durable. These cut teeth bars, like ratchet rake, and the everything attachment tooth bar are a disposable bar. Also with the one like DVVT shows you can loosen the bolts and flip the bar into the bucket for a quick final grade once you get to the end of the job. This style is what I have on my loader and I really like it, DVVT does note the potential downside of the bolts coming loose. I have never had problems with the bolts not coming loose or accidentally coming loose. Mine is a TISCO bar I got from a local dealer.

 

[PILOON]

My back blade is rather light weight so I attached a plastic milk jug crate so that I can add some weights. Helps a fair bit.

 

[monkeyboy22]

Does your box blade (BB) have the scarifier teeth? If yes, you can angle the front edge of the BB down by shortening the top link so that the teeth dig in but the blade makes little to no soil contact.
Make passes at different angles controlling depth with how much you lower the 3PH, then level the BB and smooth as desired. If need greater digging ability, add weight to the BB.

I tried that method but the scarifiers got clogged up with clumps of turf and only made it about four to five feet before the scarifiers quit digging in. At the rate I was going, including dumping all of the turf clods, I felt that a tiller would do a better job in a shorter amount of time.

 

[check]

It's not a big deal...personally...if after the nut is torqued and there was any thread protruding I would cut or grind it off anyway...inside or outside...which BTW makes no difference...

Also unless you need the smooth edge of the bucket for back dragging you'll likely not bother removing the tooth bar once it's on...

Oh, I do, every winter. I need to have it off in order to install my bucket expander from bxpanded.com. With the bucket expander, I can carry twice as much snow! And I don’t have to worry about the weight, because snow is so light.

 

[Bronco82]

I have my tooth bar on for the summer, but take it off to back blade the snow easier in the winter. I have yet to have an issue with the ends of the bolts in the bucket. When I put it back on in the spring, a little bit of anti-seize and it's not an issue in the fall. Just have to make sure I clean the crud out around it so the wrench gets a good grip on the nut. So far so good!

Don't over think it.