bolts vs rivets for sickle mower

[pekabu]

I have the same project going on. Though it's a very low priority. Saw these on eBay.

eBay Sickle bolts

 

[pekabu]

I have the same project going on. Though it's a very low priority. Saw these on eBay.

eBay Sickle bolts

 

[plowrup]

One thing that might be mentioned here-sometimes the heads of the bolts stick up enough that you have to replace the hold downs and Guards to clear them-

 

[plowrup]

One thing that might be mentioned here-sometimes the heads of the bolts stick up enough that you have to replace the hold downs and Guards to clear them-

 

[Charolais]

I buy from these folks.
web page

 

[Charolais]

I buy from these folks.
web page

 

[buckaroogeek]

A few years ago I converted a NH sicklebar mower (51?) from rivet to bolt on knives. Never looked back. Had to replace all the hold downs, but NH actually had a kit to do that. All parts available at NH dealer.

I did the same last year for a old NH mower condtioner. Again all parts available at the NH dealer.

Brad

 

[buckaroogeek]

A few years ago I converted a NH sicklebar mower (51?) from rivet to bolt on knives. Never looked back. Had to replace all the hold downs, but NH actually had a kit to do that. All parts available at NH dealer.

I did the same last year for a old NH mower condtioner. Again all parts available at the NH dealer.

Brad

 

[jejennings]

I've been riveting sections for 40 years and agree that it gets easier with practice. On thing that really speeds thing up is a riveting block and a properly sized rivet set. I have an old John Deere riveting block that I picked up at a farm sale 25 years ago It has a channel to hold the sickle "backbone" with two hardened cups to hold the rivet heads. You just slip two rivets through the backbone and lay it on the block, drop a section over the rivets and use the rivet set and a hammer to form two perfectly rounded rivet heads. I set it in the middle of a 16 foot workbench with blocks to both sides to support the remainder of the knife. One important thing is to clean the part of the backbone of any rust before putting on a new sickle. The advantage of rivets over bolts are:
1. they can't vibrate loose.
2. the rivet swells to fill the entire hole in the backbone
3. no modification of the cutter bar are needed.

The John Deere block also holds guards for riveting in new plates and has appropriate holes for punching out old rivets. It's extremely well thought out. I don't know if they still sell them but I wouldn't sell mine for a couple of hundred bucks. It really speeds up what can be a difficult job and almost makes it fun.

If you're not a regular sickle re-builder, rivets can drive you bonkers. But if you've done enough of them, they get easier with each re-sectioning.

I use an anvil to remove the old ones. (Put the bar against the top of the anvil with the section hanging down on the side. Smack the section with a HEAVY hammer. That shears the rivets. Use the same anvil and the same hammer to re-clinch the new rivets. With practice, a person can do a 7' bar in about an hour.

Bolts are easy. They are nice when you need to repace a section in the field too. But they AREN'T cheap compared to the rivets.

(I still prefer rivets.)

 

[scott_vt]

Afternoon je,
Welme to TBN !

You just responded to a post thats about 7 months old. Although you make some very good points and you may get a response from Farm , quite often if the post is older you may not. Certainly not trying to discourage you !!! Just trying to point out to take a look at the date on the last post of the thread.

Again welcome to TBN and we are glad to have you aboard!!!