Grading Boom Mounted Blade

[rationalizer]

I think the Curtis blade is a heavier duty unit than the Deere blade (more gauge and reinforcements). My Deere dealer highly recommended the Curtis - "better value" (more profit? /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif). You may not need more blade than the Deere - it just might make sense to compare before you buy.

Bill

 

[Green_in_MI]

A couple questions for Beenthere and others with experience in this. Beenthere, you mention in an earlier post that your front blade setup "is expensive but many times better". Do you mean much better than the backblade setup or much better than the loader arm frontblade setup too? Do you use any ballast on the back end for traction? I use an 800# concrete block for loader ballast and i was going to use it for traction with a loader arm front blade while snowplowing. Would that much weight help in preventing the sidepush from plowing? And what about adding more weight on the front too?

 

[beenthere]

The cost of a front blade (Western 7') is probably still in the $1500 category, and then one needs to add the fabrication cost of the bracket ($200-300) to attach it to the front of the tractor, as there isn't a factory made option. And I do consider this to be much better than the loader arm blade (keeps the blade closer to the tractor for handling and I think one can have a wider blade with this arrangement) and MANY times better than a back blade. I used a back blade years ago and it was not a pleasant way to move snow. However, it can be done. Just not as much fun as driving forward (fast too) and seeing the snow neatly slide off to the side. Although I have not had a blade on the loader arms, I would be worried about hitting objects and causing a lot of twisting and torque on the loader arms. Even the blade mounted close to the tractor can dig into soft ground or hit something hidden under the snow can put a lot of stress on the tractor and blade assembly. No problem with it handling such loads to date, and I don't expect any (knock on wood).

I usually only have a carry-all platform on the 3pt when I plow snow (rarely have some firewood piled on it) and have fluid in the rear tires. Other than that, no additional weight. I use chains only when the snow has melted (warm weather or rain) and there is an ice layer built up. On fresh snow or packed snow, no problem with traction in 4wd. Lifting the plow slightly will put enough weight on the front tires to maintain good steering. Steering is only a problem when trying to clean the snow out of the ditches along the side of the drive and there is extra side force on the blade.

 

[Trev]

<font color=blue>...72" blade that mounts using the 4 pins the bucket uses (about 3 min. to change) for $1220...</font color=blue>

Your JD4300 will accept a real front blade with full hydraulic angling for around $1500, I believe. Same width, but you take off the FEL and mount the blade to its own under-chassis mounting system. Having the hydraulic angling would be well worth the extra $200-300 to me. And I'm told, but don't know for sure, that you can push a lot better with this arrangement because it's a straight push right against the tractor frame.

I have one on mine, and it's great. But, I don't have a fel, so I don't have to hassle with switching them. Your solution would be easier on and off, but the lack of angling would be a royal pain in snow.. at least IMHO. I had a GT235 that I used to push snow with, and I had to keep getting off and manually adjusting the blade angle. That was a hassle.. I can only imagine how much of a hassle it would be to not be able to adjust the angle at all.

hth,
Bob

 

[Hoeman00]

Look around for used blades off of p/u or jeeps.
Find one that doesn't have the lift or brackets and get them at
a GOOD price($200-400).
2 pcs. of 2X4X1/4" tube 16" long and 2 pcs. of 2X4X1/4" angle 3' or so long
2 pcs. of plate w/ hole for lower pins and a chain hook.
An evening in the shop and it will plow snow.

 

[estamas142]

I have a JD 4410 with a FEL and boom mounted snow blade with hydrolic assist. It is great. I think it is made better than the curtis in my opinion. It angles perfectly and really does a fantastic job on snow. When I want to move snow I just switch to the FEL (very easy). I thought a lot about snow removal...I have a very steep long driveway in western Ma...and this set up seems to be the best that I can think of especially for gravel.

Only problem is to be careful before ground freezes so you dont damage driveway.

Good luck...I don,t think you can go wrong with this choice.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks for all of your replies. I had thought of mounting a pick-up blade on the tractor but here in Michigan used ones are hard to come by without buying the truck they are mounted on (not to mention that I would have had to build the mount).

I did purchase a JD boom mounted blade and am quite pleased with it's construction. Now we'll have to see how it works in the snow.

 

[Green_in_MI]

I hope you like your new blade. I am real pleased with mine. I have only used mine a couple times this winter due to no snow. Somehow I don't mind. I noticed the same thing about trucks.
I did not buy the hydraulic option from Deere, I fabricated my own. Cost about half as much. If I ever get a digital camera I would post the pictures. Next project for the blade is to put the rubber blade edge on using the tips I have read on this forum. Got your note, today was the first time in a year I checked the control panel.

 

[unger]

Russ' I also have a 4010. I tried the FEL to remove the snow we received earlier this year but was not real pleased. I used the float but you had to constantly monitor the angle of the bucket to keep from digging in. I purchased the 52" quick attach blade from JD & installed it myself. (very easy) I payed about $900 for the complete kit. I used it last week to clear about 4" of snow & liked it much better than the bucket. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif