Boosting question.

[jigs_n_fixtures]

RE boosting off the starter, you hook the ground from the jumper to the chassis of what your jumping, and the hot lead to the post on the solenoid the battery cable goes to. Make sure the vehicle your jumping is in neutral, with the brakes on and blocked. Take a short piece of No.12 wire with the ends stripped, and jump from the positive to the small terminal on the solenoid that the starter switch feeds to. If the starter is good it will engage and crank the engine. If your going to start the tractor, you should have a helper, or leave the jumper cables attached, and do the normal start from the seat.

How safe it is depends a lot on how accessible the battery and starter are. So, use some judgment before trying it.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

So definitely the battery was the issue, it was bulged quite a bit and frozen solid, the mechanic replaced it and the tractor fires right up easily and now recognizes when a booster is installed (you can see the voltage change)

I understand you have it fixed and it was the battery but how long had it sat since the last use ? Batteries only freeze when they get near dead or fully discharged. Any chance you left something on, a light, the ignition ... ? If it had sat a good deal of time since the last use you might want to spend a little money on a charger that will automatically float and just leave it on your battery when not in use. It would be cheap insurance on the new battery.

 

[5030]

I use a NOCO Genius myself, but then I rarely have starting battery issues anyway because, I change them every 5 years. keep the terminals clean and bright and I always take the starting battery out of the circuit when not used.

HF sells a dandy terminal cleaner for under 5 bucks.

My NOCO will start my 3406 Cat with a flat battery no matter how cold it is.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

if you park it somewhere you can get power to it, install one of the 1.5-Amp battery maintainers that are waterproof, and can be hard mounted on the vehicle. I installed a battery heater mat, with a thermostatic switch which turns the heat pad on at about 30-F and turns it off at 35-F.

 

[Marslander51]

In my experience, successful jumping or boosting consists of hooking up the boost source to the dead battery and let it charge for 10-15 minutes before cranking. The jumper cables aren’t big enough nor do they have sufficient contact area to start the engine by itself.

 

[1Mech]

If the battery is too dead, the new chargers will not charge it. Smart charges are actually dumb chargers. There needs to be some life in the battery. Sometimes I hook a second battery charger up to it as well just to trick the charger into charging it. This only needs to be there for a few minutes to get the charger thinking there is some current there.

I have used a simple 9 volt transistor radio battery to trick the new "smart" charger into working on a dead battery. Using short, small gauge jumper wires, touch the 9 volt battery to the 12 volt battery, with the charger connected and turned on, observing proper polarity of course. once the charger sees some voltage, it will take off and continue charging without the 9 volt connected.

 

[ballencd]

Question is what’s the problem that even John Deere Mechanics aren’t finding?

It’s a IVT so as long as it’s in park it’s ok and all the safety switches are working. It starts just fine on warm days and when the battery is charged, it’s just when the battery dies and needs a boost that it acts like there’s no booster attached.


That makes sense but if I connect to the cable ends that connect to the battery then shouldn’t my booster pack or truck basically become the new battery while connected?

The mechanic said I do need a new battery and that’s a $1400cdn installed.

But with this cold snap -45c (-49f) and I don’t have shelter for the mechanic to do the replacement so they want to do it when it warms up and I need to keep boosting it when the battery acts up (but not easy when I have this issue)

I will grab my multimeter and see what voltage is going to the starter solenoid, is it a live wire or do I need someone cranking the ignition to test it?


I definitely agree, they have gone backwards when it comes to “smart” and detecting voltage, the dual chargers is a really good idea to get it started.


I have a tech coming on Friday to install a new battery but I need to boost it in the meantime and trying to figure out why it won’t even take a boost.

You have a $150K tractor but don't have a barn/shop/garage? $500 labor to install a battery? Wow. I am impressed! I should have gone into a different business.

 

[stephanadams]

There needs to be some life in the battery. Sometimes I hook a second battery charger up to it as well just to trick the charger into charging it.

 

[stephanadams]

There needs to be some life in the battery. Sometimes I hook a second battery charger up to it as well just to trick the charger into charging it.

fiziksel sunucu fiyatları​

 

[chim]

As mentioned, size and good contact matter with jumper cables. Some of the so-called "emergency kits" had wire as small as 10 gauge and clamps about as powerful as clothespins. The approach for powering my receiver mount winch addressed two things. First of all, it needed to get a lot of amps whether it was on the front of the tractor or either end of the Trailblazer. Second, my jumpers needed an upgrade.

Fortunately, this was before I retired, and there was some old 2/0 welding cable available where I worked. The tractor, Trailblazer and winches all have 350A Anderson style plugs permanently connected. I made up a 25' jumper with Anderson plugs on each end. Then the last item was a short 5' jumper with an Anderson plug on one end and Visegrips on the other.

If I can get the front of the Trailblazer near the front of the vehicle that needs jumped, the permanently-mounted cable on the Trailblazer plus the plug x Visegrip jumper are long enough to reach. So far there have been two times when it was handier to pull up behind the dead vehicle and use the long jumpers.