bore size of sidelink cylinder

[MtnViewRanch]

B1700D, FEL, gear
TractorData.com Kubota B1700 tractor information

bear in mind that I have a 7' rear scrape blade that is really too big (heavy)for my tractor but I use it very judiciously and other than a bigger tractor nothing else will do what this brute does...I also have an appropriately sized box blade.

Also and maybe more importantly...I recently bought an older 7' sickle bar mower that just like the scrape blade (both Massey Ferguson BTW) is maxing out the tractor's 3ph capabilities...but both work exceptionally well even at the retarded pace I use them at...

IMO, the cylinder that you are looking at has to long of a stroke. You should be using one with a 4" stroke. that is not to say that the 5" stroke won't work, just that it is not the ideal configuration IMO. You said that your concerned about strength and that you use heavy implements. They may seem heavy to you and may be at your tractors lifting limit, but they are not even close to the capacity of what a 2" hydraulic will safely handle.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

:anyone:

Or another questions, Why are the side links $250??? I would like one but this seems a bit high.

I can weld and would like a cheaper option, I would re-use the Parts off the solid brace but with which cylinder?

Also, if strength is a problem, could I use the side link to *only* lift one side of the box blade for tilting (instead of putting down pressure on the other.)

PS. If this is hijacking - send me a PM and I can start another thread... I think we are working towards a common goal, Just let me know since I can delete this thread for 24 hours.

No one seems to mind paying $185 for a top link, a side link is a lot more work. No one is getting rich charging $250. My suggestion is that you purchase a 2" bore x 4" stroke cylinder, cut the ends off of your fixed lift rod, (side link) cut the ends off of the cylinder that you purchase and weld the side link ends onto it. You'll be all set.

Let us know how that goes. If you want I'll sell you the hydraulic with the ends already cut off for $100 and a set of hoses for $40. But you might be able to save a couple of $$ if you really shop around.

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[SPYDERLK]

According to TractorData.com your 3pt hitch can lift 1280#.

A 2" cylinder at your system pressure which is ??? can lift ___. I'll use 2250 psi which is what my L235 hydraulic pressure is.
Area of 2" cylinder is 3.14 sq in. Force is 3.14 times 2250 = a little over 3 tons :shocked: Be careful you don't bend anything! A system pressure of around 400 psi would produce about 1200# and I'm sure your pressure is more than that.

I think you'll find that 2" cylinders are pretty easy to find and relatively inexpensive. Smaller diameter ones not so much.

That is the push force. In T&T operations the cyls are mostly used in tension. Subtract at least a ton to allow for loss of the area occupied by the rod.
larry

 

[/pine]

IMO, the cylinder that you are looking at has to long of a stroke. You should be using one with a 4" stroke. that is not to say that the 5" stroke won't work, just that it is not the ideal configuration IMO. You said that your concerned about strength and that you use heavy implements. They may seem heavy to you and may be at your tractors lifting limit, but they are not even close to the capacity of what a 2" hydraulic will safely handle.

Thanks for the information...I was basing the stroke on the limits of the manual adjustable link and it is exactly 5"....is there a reason to use less travel with a hydraulic sidelink ?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the information...I was basing the stroke on the limits of the manual adjustable link and it is exactly 5"....is there a reason to use less travel with a hydraulic sidelink ?

Normally on smaller tractors, a 4" stroke works best. Can you go and get your collapsed and extended measurements or the fixed link measurement center line on the pins? Maybe a picture of it.

The Surplus Center hydraulic seems like it has a very short retracted length considering the 5" stroke and how far the ram is extended when collapsed. It may work though.

 

[mars1952]

just curious...what do you think of using this cylinder....(I will probably go with a 1-1/2 rod) but I'm curious if you think this cylinder would be OK to re-configure with lift arm ends ?
Surplus Center - 2.5X5X1.25 DA HYD CYL

Hi: That cylinder is quite a bargain. It should work well if you have enough clearance. Make sure to check the clearance when the 3PH is fully up, down, swung right and swung left. The extra stroke won't hurt as long as you don't over extend and bend something. The cylinder can resist side pressures better when it is not fully extended.
Mars

 

[/pine]

sort of an update...

Wondering what you guys think about these cylinders...
They were originally intended as "tilt cylinders" for a fork lift...(they are new regardless of the scratched up paint)...I bought 2 of them $20 each...for that much money I couldn't pass them up...

My (manual) sidelink adjusts from about 14" to 19" which is 5" and these cylinders only have a 3.375" stroke...but for what I will be using it for I think this will work out for me...I bought the second one just as an option of having HSLs on both sides...I've read all the pros-cons...it's just an option..

I think I can modify one of these cylinders so the retracted (or mostly retracted) length will be the same length as the (current left side) solid sidelink...


3.00 inch bore

3.375 inch stroke

1.25 inch diadeter rod

Rod extends 4.75 inches from the case when retracted

3.5 inch outside diameter

Mounting lug on case end has 1.25 inch diameter hole. Lug is 1.5 inches wide

15 inches from the end of the rod to the center of the hole in the mounting lug with the rod retracted

 

[teg]

First, got any more??? or a place I can order a couple?

Second, I don't think you need that much tilt... and if you move your adjustable link to the other side, it will still give you 5" when you have to have it....

Third, Nice buy!!!

 

[/pine]

...I don't think you need that much tilt...

I don't either...seems like 3" is more than enough for what I do...

see PM

 

[kjung17]

Thanks for the reply...

I'm not as concerned about the lifting power of the cylinder as I am about the (possible) abuse the rod may take...especially when one of the heavier attachments is connected...

Richard,
As you may already know, Hydraulic cylinders are at their most vulnerable to side loads when fully extended. As long as you're operating somewhere in the middle of the stroke, a 2 inch cylinder would have, likely, been fine. Those cylinders are awesome.:thumbsup: