/ Bought a dirt cheap Rhino 554 as a spare parts tractor - New plan - get it into usable shape, after being parked outside for 20 years.
#1
sd455dan
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
- Messages
- 4,805
- Location
- North Idaho
- Tractor
- Rhino 554, Ford 550 TLB (JD X500, MTD, Gilson riding mowers) Ford 3000-Sold
I purchased it as a parts tractor, for my existing 554 Rhino, in case I need hard to find parts. Well with fresh diesel and the included new batteries and shorting the solenoid the engine runs too well to just be a parts tractor. PTO works and also the 3 point, transmission shifts, and the two stage clutch is working correctly.
So New Plan, fix what is functionally wrong with Rhino #2 to be useable, if the original Rhino breaks use #2 until I can source what is needed to fix the original and rinse and repeat.
203 cubic inch engine runs Good.
T-6 5W 40 oil change completed, new oil filter and Injection pump oil change as well.- the Fram filter was so old and sun faded it almost had no color left.
Power steering was non functional. This took some work... The system is modeled after Massey and Fords use of a manual steering box that also has a dual valve that opens assist pressure for each direction when the wheel s turned using a rod to the valve. The valve was completely rusted in the turn left position, finally got it disassembled ( had to put it in the hydraulic press to get the parts to move then back in the ultrasonic cleaner with ATF and acetone, cleaned, lubed and back together also the pressure pipe was burst in one section... MIG welded back up and purged lots of bad oil, cleaned the screen replaced fluid twice and the steering is power assisted.
Big leak from the 4x4 transfer box . The driveshaft seals were both shot and the case cover was completely broken into two pieces due to water ingress and freezing at the lowest point.
Stick welded the cover with Hobart 55 Nickel rod and trued the cover back up. traced and made new gaskets and installed the new seals. No more leaks and shifts in and out of four nicely. 11 gallons of fresh UTF in the sump as well.
Start switch would only half start the tractor (sometimes) .
Bad ground wires had 1 full ohm at the soldered crimp connections . Cut off both and hydraulic crimped new lugs on replaced key switch and wiring to starter solenoid, spins over great now. Charging system functional.
Next hydraulic woes... FEL Only lifts with the Power beyond lever pulled blocking the return to sump circuit and only relieves through the PRV . Swapped the Cross brand control valve assembly from Rhino #1 and the problem stayed. New seals ordered for the cylinders, but I did have two spare piston seal kits for the existing FEL cylinders. Got the cylinders apart and the seals were absolutely toast. Installed each set after major clean out of the two cylinders and also spun the aluminum pistons on the lathe and removed some scoring as well with some emery cloth.
Lift cylinders reinstalled and Yahoo.
The lift circuit now works and easily also lifts the front axle off the ground. As above kits ordered for the Curl cylinders. I got 3 Gland nuts off with heat, peening, air , and pipe wrench, but number four was not having it. I have pretty much Destroyed the aluminum gland nut so ordered a new one tonight. Hopefully have the cylinder parts in a week.
Once the Curl function is fixed the tractor can be used but it looks rough and the PO at some point ran into something immovable and the front support for the FEL is bent so I will pull that eventually and square it back up.
Since the deal for $3200 came with a Schulte 84" snow blower and heavy field drag going to value the tractor at $2600.
With what has been spent so far:
hydraulic oil ~ $150
engine oil and filter ~$100
Ignition switch $25
seals and gland nut ~$200
nickel 55 rod $25
around $500 , Not sure if grease and oil / filter changes should even count since most used machines get that done as preventative maintenance anyway.
So with fresh oil and filters should be right at $3100
Imo, it is a lot of tractor for the money.
Things still in need of attention
Oil bath air cleaner service
front axle and bevel gear hub oil changes
Lights need replaced and fixed
Gauges -need a new water temp, and tach
Antifreeze R and R.
So New Plan, fix what is functionally wrong with Rhino #2 to be useable, if the original Rhino breaks use #2 until I can source what is needed to fix the original and rinse and repeat.
203 cubic inch engine runs Good.
T-6 5W 40 oil change completed, new oil filter and Injection pump oil change as well.- the Fram filter was so old and sun faded it almost had no color left.
Power steering was non functional. This took some work... The system is modeled after Massey and Fords use of a manual steering box that also has a dual valve that opens assist pressure for each direction when the wheel s turned using a rod to the valve. The valve was completely rusted in the turn left position, finally got it disassembled ( had to put it in the hydraulic press to get the parts to move then back in the ultrasonic cleaner with ATF and acetone, cleaned, lubed and back together also the pressure pipe was burst in one section... MIG welded back up and purged lots of bad oil, cleaned the screen replaced fluid twice and the steering is power assisted.
Big leak from the 4x4 transfer box . The driveshaft seals were both shot and the case cover was completely broken into two pieces due to water ingress and freezing at the lowest point.
Stick welded the cover with Hobart 55 Nickel rod and trued the cover back up. traced and made new gaskets and installed the new seals. No more leaks and shifts in and out of four nicely. 11 gallons of fresh UTF in the sump as well.
Start switch would only half start the tractor (sometimes) .
Bad ground wires had 1 full ohm at the soldered crimp connections . Cut off both and hydraulic crimped new lugs on replaced key switch and wiring to starter solenoid, spins over great now. Charging system functional.
Next hydraulic woes... FEL Only lifts with the Power beyond lever pulled blocking the return to sump circuit and only relieves through the PRV . Swapped the Cross brand control valve assembly from Rhino #1 and the problem stayed. New seals ordered for the cylinders, but I did have two spare piston seal kits for the existing FEL cylinders. Got the cylinders apart and the seals were absolutely toast. Installed each set after major clean out of the two cylinders and also spun the aluminum pistons on the lathe and removed some scoring as well with some emery cloth.
Lift cylinders reinstalled and Yahoo.
The lift circuit now works and easily also lifts the front axle off the ground. As above kits ordered for the Curl cylinders. I got 3 Gland nuts off with heat, peening, air , and pipe wrench, but number four was not having it. I have pretty much Destroyed the aluminum gland nut so ordered a new one tonight. Hopefully have the cylinder parts in a week.
Once the Curl function is fixed the tractor can be used but it looks rough and the PO at some point ran into something immovable and the front support for the FEL is bent so I will pull that eventually and square it back up.
Since the deal for $3200 came with a Schulte 84" snow blower and heavy field drag going to value the tractor at $2600.
With what has been spent so far:
hydraulic oil ~ $150
engine oil and filter ~$100
Ignition switch $25
seals and gland nut ~$200
nickel 55 rod $25
around $500 , Not sure if grease and oil / filter changes should even count since most used machines get that done as preventative maintenance anyway.
So with fresh oil and filters should be right at $3100
Imo, it is a lot of tractor for the money.
Things still in need of attention
Oil bath air cleaner service
front axle and bevel gear hub oil changes
Lights need replaced and fixed
Gauges -need a new water temp, and tach
Antifreeze R and R.
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