Toplink Box Blade and Hydraulic Top Link

[Bird]

Rat, the last time I stopped in at a Kubota dealership, one of their rental units was a B7500 with a FEL and a box blade with hydraulic top 'n tilt and rippers on the box blade, so a 3 spool valve of course.

 

[CTyler]

I agree with Bird. Adjusting the toplink with the boxblade is a pain due to the wieght. Raise/lower 3pt, turn toplink a couple times, raise/lower 3pt and repeat. With the rear blade the toplink isn't hard to adjust.

I just ordered a hydraulic toplink for my L3130. It depends on your needs. For me the top function is more usefull. I'll probably add the remotes later for tilt and turn on the rear blade.

 

[JATO_RaT]

You might consider getting a 3 spool valve now or at least a stackable valve if you plan on adding more remotes later. Your right, of all the ones you want, it's that top link that is the most important and increases efficiency dramatically.

 

[OkieG]

Bird,
Do the top link/side arm cylinders drift much (or at all) from the desired position while in use? In other words, is frequent tweaking necessary to get the boxblade to stay in position? For example, if my loader bucket is in the air, it will slowly drift down to the ground. My understanding is that drift is more a function of the valve you use rather than the cylinder. I'm wondering if this is much of a problem?

OkieG

 

[Bird]

OkieG, it's hard to say. I learned, when I had the B7100, that a certain amount of leakdown for the front end loader is considered "within specs". Mine leaked down too fast and they first thought it was the valve, but it turned out to be the cylinders. They tried seal kits, but eventually just replaced all four cylinders under warranty.

So I guess the answer to your question is that if either the valve or the cylinders don't seal completely, there will be some drift. With my B2710, I never had any noticeable drift either with the front end loader or the top 'n tilt. Guess I had good cylinders and valves.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

To avoid drift (ok, reduce it) tilt and top link cylinders must be equipped with stop valve. That valve is mounted DIRECTLY on cylinder, before flexible hoses. If I'm informed good, it reduce drift, and eliminate stress on flexible hoses and tractor valve. Every setup, which I saw here on bigger tractors, alway have this walve. I guess that reason why I didn't see stop valve on any of your TNT topics, must be price. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Bird]

I'm trying to imagine what kind of "stop valve" you're talking about. If it's a manually opened and closed valve, it seems that would almost defeat the purpose the hydraulic top 'n tilt since you'd have to stop and open the valve every time you wanted to make an adjustment. And if it's what we call a "check valve" that usually allows fluid to only run through in one direction, and that wouldn't work on a double acting cylinder.

Can you explain a little more so I understand just what you're talking about, or what I'm missing?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sorry, I haven't picture. It looks like square block, mouted on cylinder, between cylinder outlets (connected by metal pipes usualy welded), and flexible hoses. It is actuated automatic by oil pressure when you act on remote outlet valve. It hasn't any handle.

 

[Inspector507]

Look at this picture of a top link.......that is a check valve on top

 

[Bird]

Thanks to both of you. I'm not sure I entirely understand how a check valve works in both directions, but have a vague idea anyway.