Box Scraper Box Blade as FEL Counterbalance on Compact Tractors (Beta version)

[CMV]

Mine I guess is underweight....Bush Hog SBX72 @ 550 lbs, 6' length.

I use it for counterweight *IF it is already on the 3pt for something else*. Otherwise, if I'm attaching something specifically for counterweight, I use the ballast box. While box blade is fine, it's not nearly as compact, so why not have something back there I don't have to worry about at all is my take on it. But can see where many people only have a box blade and bush hog or finish mower so box blade would be appropriate choice most times.

For anything I can scoop up in bucket the loaded 14.9-24 rears plus the box blade are more than sufficient. However, replace with rock bucket or pallet forks, I can easily get the rears off the ground with just the box blade back there. Moving a full 330 gal IBC tote on pallet forks for example. All I can do to get it off the ground enough to move it. And with just box blade on rear, won't get it off ground - rears will come off ground first.

While I agree in theory heavier is better for a box blade - not just for counterbalance, but they just work much better with some mass to them - you also run into a very significant cost difference from a standard/medium duty one like mine vs a much beefier version of the same size. Depends what you need to do with it, but if its sole purpose is light ground ripping, maintaining a gravel road, or spreading loose material that's a lot of extra expense to go heavier just for the sake of being heavy at time of purchase. So yeah, all thing equal and in most applications, a good generalization about the tractor or box blade is "heavier = better", but at the same time that mass has a $$$ price tag so compromises must be made.

As someone else noted, I too would choose rotary tiller if I needed something back there and didn't have ballast box. Bush Hog RT72 is 750 lbs so for same amount of hookup time (assuming PTO shaft just goes on without a fuss), the heavier tiller would be better choice since I'll have the same width behind me either way.

Lastly, have been times where I just needed to move a scoop of dirt (red clay so heavy) or a bunch of concrete cap blocks and had nothing on the 3 pt. I don't make a habit of that, but on occasion and short distance on level ground no big deal. Have never felt "light" in the back end doing that. Only with loads much heavier than what I can reasonably get into the normal bucket do I ever feel light in the rear. I sure wouldn't worry that my box blade wan't heavy enough to move anything I could fit in the bucket - loaded rears are probably enough unless i got into way stupid territory.

 

[CMV]

Different question (and sorry for the slight hijack) on Jeff's first picture of the deep cut in the sand.....wow that's a lot of digging - looks like fun!

But notice how it is deeper in the middle? Like it's cut ( shaped? That might be his intent, but I get that result a LOT with my box blade. Not as extreme as that picture, but on dirt I get that a lot vs just smoothing. Never happens on gravel, just dirt. Is that just an angle issue? I do it a lot unintentionally and have to then go backwards, push material back where I want it, then hit it again to level it up because I get that "curved" cut sometimes.

 

[majorwager]

In reading the post by CMV, it is fair to state that one size doesn't fit everyone and lighter duty implements perform at an acceptable level.
Depends upon the task and frequency?. But EVERYONE need NOT purchase the heaviest and most expensive implements just because that is what suits the OP.

It is reasonable to have consideration for the folks who will be served well by tools that do NOT break the bank.!!! Important to remember that the heavier implement requires a heavier machine to provide the needed tractive effort, that may just become overkill. The ballast box reference is valid. They are smaller w/ less concern for what is projecting behind you, as you look forward. Not everything the FEL lifts is at the max capacity. !!

If size and weight support your tasks, fine, spend the additional capital. But do NOT feel pressure to do so on the outside chance your new career is in road builing.

 

[BufordBoone]

Two questions:

1 - For a cabbed tractor, does a rollover box blade have any advantage over a normal box blade that has scarifiers? (I specify cabbed as most ROBBs I see have a lever that can be reached from the operator's seat. I would guess a cab prevents that?)

2 - What manufacturers make box blades of 100+ lbs/ft?

 

[/pine]

MOST, not all, Category 1 Box Blades for compact tractors (subcompact tractor implements excluded) begin around 80 (+/-) pounds per foot and increase in weight per foot of width from 80 pounds. Category 2 Box Blades are generally heavier.

You need to do some research on this...the majority of brand name box blades made for tractors between 17 and 30 HP generally range from a little over 50#'s / foot to about 70#'s / foot...
what CUT or SCUT tractors come with cat 2 hitches?

 

[majorwager]

Slash pine,

I've seen NO CUTs under 50+ hp w/ cat 2 links. Certainly not typical of the breed.

Jeff deleted his post, hearing slash pine footsteps approaching from the distance....

 

[/pine]

Slash pine,

I've seen NO CUTs under 50+ hp w/ cat 2 links. Certainly not typical of the breed.

Jeff deleted his post, hearing slash pine footsteps approaching from the distance....

To me cat 2 hitches are commercial/ industrial equipment...

I realize the creed for grading attachments is "the heavier the better"...but a benefit of the lighter blades designed and made for CUT and SCUT tractors are much easier to nudge onto the 3ph lift arms than the super heavy blades that can't be moved by hand without risking personal injury etc...

 

[ning]

I presently use my backhoe as FEL counterbalance. The fact that I can use it to substantially loosen hard dirt before using the FEL doesn't hurt... plus it's really fun to use.

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay experts... I don't need another counterbalance for my BX. My BH does just fine. But I am in the market for a box blade. I assume a 48in is appropriate width (w/ wheel spacers my rear stance is about 48in), but wondering about brands/models? Suggestions?

 

[CMV]

Dragon - depends on what you're doing I guess. I borrowed a friends before getting my own so only have experience with 3. His was an older but beefier one than either I bought. It cut better due to the extra weight, but was harder to hook up and the teeth were held with spring steel V-clips that were a pain. The one I bought for LS was Southern brand and seemed very similar to the kind TSC has - suspect same thing with different name applied. Current one is Bush Hog brand. You will probably see same thing I did shopping around - the standard duty ones like TSC, Bush Hog SB, Land Pride BB, etc, all cost about the same, all weigh about the same, etc. More similar to each other than different. So as long as you have reversible/replaceable cutting edge, cutting teeth with depth adjustment, you're pretty much shopping on which one has best price, color you like, or possibly an easier for you way to attach. Even the less expensive ones like TSC or the Southern one I had seemed to be just fine for build quality - welds looked consistent, didn't have spatter under the paint, paint seemed fine, etc.