Box blade decisions

   / Box blade decisions #11  
My neighbor has been doing my driveway for me. He has a very old 2wd tractor with a old box blade that is not adjustable. A few passes and my road looks as good as new:)

It's not the blade itself that is "adjustable"...it's the 3PH...any and all three point hitches are or can be made adjustable for both length of top link and level of side links etc...
 
   / Box blade decisions #12  
Tractor is a 45 hp 4wd with rear tires filled. Is it capable of handling the 530 pounds?

Kubota L4330, a ~40 hp class tractor with +1150 lbs of LMC HD BB, railroad rail and 510 lb weight block:

L61bcft.jpg


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530 lbs on a 45 hp tractor? Probably won't even notice it.
 
   / Box blade decisions
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Going on the advice of my dealer. He said there is no sense going to anything 吐ancier for simply grading a gravel driveway. And his advice seems solid otherwise why would my neighbors old rig and much smaller boxblade turn my road into a pot hole free driveway.
Appreciate the advice, looks like I will buy the one that weighs 530 pounds
 
   / Box blade decisions #14  
having rippers on a box blade is useful. hyd is expensive, mine just manually engage. plus more wt
having a hyd top link is a real benefit too, esp while grading
 
   / Box blade decisions #15  
Have a local company who builds a decent box blade at a good price. My choices are narrowed down to a 72 inch wide model that weighs 357 lbs for $599:
Titan 3 Series

Or a 530 pound version for $675:
Titan 3 Series

It will be used to keep my almost 600 foot gravel driveway in shape and to occasionally level some soil in places.

For $76 it seems like a no brainer to go with the HD version. Thoughts?

Those blades sound incredibly light. I'd want a heavier box blade if it was me. And do those come with scarifiers?
 
   / Box blade decisions
  • Thread Starter
#16  
They come with teeth.
What would you expect a 6 foot box blade to weigh if 530 pounds is considered incredibly light?
 
   / Box blade decisions #17  
They come with teeth.
What would you expect a 6 foot box blade to weigh if 530 pounds is considered incredibly light?

My 6' LMC weighs 675 lbs according to the factory. I wish I had gone with a 7'. :(
 
   / Box blade decisions #18  
Randy, you're right, it's a no brainer! Your tractor will easily handle the heavier BB. In fact, my NX4510HST cab easily handles my 84" Woods BSM84, 750 lbs.

Top and tilt is your friend with an implement like that. For your tractor, a nice set up with both hydraulic top link and side link will run you about $600 to $700, I think, but haven't priced for the NX in about three years.
 
   / Box blade decisions #19  
TnT I don't think is necessary on an NX. I have the hyd toplink only. left-right level is pretty simple with the crank handle and most adjustments after that is correct are forward-back angle with toplink.

And necessary is a stretch in my case. Very convenient more precise.

357 lbs would be the incredibly light one. I'd pass there just for fear of durability/longevity since that low weight is coming from something being a lot thinner even compared to a basic one from TSC. 530 lbs for a 6' is right there with all the common "medium duty" ones. Here are a few common light & med duty ones for reference, all 72":

Land Pride BB12 - 404 lbs
Land Pride BB15 - 504 lbs
Bush Hog BBX - 390 lbs
Bush Hog SBX - 550 lbs
County line (TSC) - 450 lbs
Woods BSS - 551 lbs

Yes, weight is your friend and in general more=better. But you get to a point where you are spending a lot of $ just to add weight for the sake of adding weight - you don't need the extra material thickness and construction strength for a basic gravel road and general high/low spot quick fixes in dirt here & there. Some here would suggest spending $1500 instead of $600 just to get an insane amount of weight. Simple fact is a box blade is still gonna work even if it isn't causing a wheelie condition due to its inordinate mass :) You can even rip and level real bad virgin ground @ 500 lbs, just takes a lot more passes and angle fiddling to get the first cuts not wanting to skim over places. You can probably also think of a LOT of ways to add some weight to your 500 lbs box blade (if you need it!) a lot cheaper than buying a truly heavy duty one.
 
   / Box blade decisions #20  
Not that I recommend doing it, but it worked. Super simple way to double the weight :) Point is you can easily add weight to one with stuff you may already have.

I'd also stick with 6' even though you can pull wider a lot of times. Same as bucket width so you just know where it is, covers tracks easily, less likely to anchor it. And you can anchor the NX4510HST with a 6' box blade - even a "puny, little girl one" like my 530 lbs one :) 4wd, low, creeping, ind tires with rears filled, you can still anchor it. Depends what you're getting into with it, how wide of a road you're maintaining, etc.


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