Box Blade/Draft Control

[MtnViewRanch]

My thoughts are that Draft Control is worthless for anything but a moldboard plow. That is what it was actually designed for.

I agree 100%, that is what draft control was designed for. It just so happens that it also works great with grading implements. I always use it with my rear blade, rollover box blade, Road Boss grader blade, even my land scape rake. All anybody has to do is try it with and then without draft control. I am not sure if all the draft controls are the same, but mine has many adjustments. Get the controls set properly for the circumstances and there is a night and day difference with the cut grade.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree.. draft control works great for a plow.. and to a slightly lesser degree.. other ground engaging implements.. like cultivators.. etc. A box blade could be used in draft.

As for how it would work? the blade will try to cut/plunge till the draft setting is eclipsed at which time the hyds will try to raise the blade to keep the 'constant' draft setting where it should be.

It should be noted that most CUT's have no down pressure.. so implements can be deflected up if they do not have pieces that will utilize ground vacume and help them plunge.. etc. Thus.. a BB not adjusted agressively..( no rippers ), and hard packed land.. well. the BB may just skim...

Soundguy

My thoughts are that Draft Control is worthless for anything but a moldboard plow. That is what it was actually designed for.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My thoughts are that Draft Control is worthless for anything but a moldboard plow. That is what it was actually designed for.

Or a subsoiler, or a chisel plow. BEyond that, usually draft control will cause more problems than it solves. You'll get erratic behaviour from most any implements you're using. The draft control reacts too suddenly or dramatically with very light loads. Position control, a tractor with sufficient weight and power, and a good HEAVY box blade is the secret to good grading without the need to be constantly dinking with the controls.

Draft control works so-so with a mounted disc, but can be of some help in loose, plowed soil.

The draft load can vary considerably from a plow to a box blade. In many cases, draft control won't be "adjustable" (sensitivity) Many of the older tractors, built and sold back in the days when plows were still common, have adjustments to draft sensitivity and/or speed. They allow you to "slow down" the action of draft control to a minimum. That gives you a tad bit better "control" at very light draft loads.

 

[greg_g]

FYI, the draft control systems on both my current tractors are infinitely variable; from zero to full. It greatly enhances my BB and rock rake performance and provides smooth hydraulic depth corrections; a better and faster job in the end, no question. I'll definitely use it as appropriate with any additional ground engaging implements I may purchase.

In many cases, the weak link usually turns out to be the operator. If he/she doesn't know how to properly use the draft control specific to his/her tractor, the results can be messy. Even though it may be no fault of the draft control, poor results necessarily lead to poor impressions.

I may not be the sharpest knife in this particular drawer. But I have learned over the years that it's often educational to walk that mile in somebody else's shoes once in a while.

//greg//

 

[Farmwithjunk]

In many cases, the weak link usually turns out to be the operator. If he/she doesn't know how to properly use the draft control specific to his/her tractor, the results can be messy. Even though it may be no fault of the draft control, poor results necessarily lead to poor impressions.

I may not be the sharpest knife in this particular drawer. But I have learned over the years that it's often educational to walk that mile in somebody else's shoes once in a while.

//greg//

A poor operator usually won't benifit from ANY features a tractor has or doesn't have. That's irrelevent for the most part.

And there's always that chance that "the other guys shoes" haven't seen nearly so many miles as ones own. I may not be any "sharper" either, but this ain't my first rodeo either. If a box blade isn't overly large for the tractor, the tractor has enough weight/power to pull the blade AND do the job at hand, they maintain a consistant "grade" MUCH better with position control. When using a blade that's pushing the limits of a tractor's abilities, then constant moving up and down, however so slight, may help the TRACTOR, but it doesn't do much for the end results. Your results may vary. Mine haven't with well over 15,000 hours of seat time in 59-3/4 years.

I'm not implying that YOU personally don't get some results with draft control/box blade. My point is, in MOST CASES better results are achieved with a heavy box blade on a "big enough" tractor, using position control.

Ever see a road grader with draft control?

 

[greg_g]

Ever see a road grader with draft control?

Good grief - talk about irrelevant !! Ever see a road grader with a three point hitch?

//greg//

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Good grief - talk about irrelevant !! Ever see a road grader with a three point hitch?

//greg//

No one mentioned a "road grader with a 3-point hitch" until you went off the deep end with that one. What You WILL see is a machine that is a dedicated grading machine that does what it does better than any other piece of equipment on the face of the earth, and WITHOUT draft sensing controls on the blade that would only complicate use AND cause it to do less than a stellar job.

Irrelevant and "I don't understand" aren't quite the same.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I use draft control when I want to level, not follow. The BB hits a high spot and digs down till the draft control pulls it back up to the level preset on my position control. If there's a low spot, it simply drops what's in the box. When I'm done making a few BB passes with draft control engaged - on uneven ground, not rolling ground - I've left behind a FLAT surface, not a rolling one

//greg//

Greg G, I wonder if other people don't use the position control along with the draft control. If both levers are just pulled to there extreme, then you would have a mess. As we both know, with proper adjustment the implements work good, in both heavy and light usages.

I do not wish to argue with anybody, in my 50 years I have been operating equipment for about 40 of them. I doubt that I have much more than 5000 hours of experience in that time. Until lately none with farm tractors. I learned on a tractor with a home made 3ph, double acting hydraulics, no float. You really had to pay attention to what you were doing. I got very good at grading. My point being that with draft control, it is easier to do that grading. I have Case industrial tractors, and for me, my Mahindra provides a better finish grade due to the draft control. Of course in my case, it most likely is just operator error.

Just my experiences and appearently most of yours differ.

 

[greg_g]

What You WILL see is a machine that is a dedicated grading machine that does what it does better than any other piece of equipment on the face of the earth, and WITHOUT draft sensing controls on the blade

Another outstanding example of "irrelevant to the discussion of TPH draft control". Thanks. Now I know that I completely screwed up by thinking that I could level my farm roads with a tractor.

//greg//

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Another outstanding example of "irrelevant to the discussion of TPH draft control". Thanks. Now I know that I completely screwed up by thinking that I could level my farm roads with a tractor.

//greg//

Again, not at all irrellevant, merely beyond your ability to grasp an old, established concept.

You can drag a pallet behind the back bumper of the wifes car and "level a driveway". Hardly a true test of anyones ability to "grade". I'm talking about grading to a precise grade, NOT floating up and down randomly with no exact grade as a final goal.