Grading Box Blade for 1700

[bunt]

Was reading posts in other section, was wondering if anyone used a box blade with their ford 1700, what size or is the ford to small
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

Was reading posts in other section, was wondering if anyone used a box blade with their ford 1700, what size or is the ford to small
Bill

I do not have a box blade, but if you have Ag tires for adequate traction you have adequate weight and HP to pull a 5 footer. I do not have any problem lifting an almost 800 lbs , 5 feet wide tiller with my 3-pt lift. I know a KK 5' Box blade is lighter than a 5' tiller.


JC,

 

[jbrumberg]

bunt:

Welcome to TBN and the Blue Forum ! The Ford 1700 IMHO is very similar to my NH TC29DA. I have no problems working dirt with a 60" box blade and probably could have gone a little wider than 60". I would defininately get a box blade that is wider than your wheel width (my width was ~54"). I believe the width of a Ford 1700 tractor is around 60". That should be your starting point. What material you will be working will also define the size box blade that you will need. Jay

 

[jbrumberg]

I was hoping that JC would jump in and own a BB . Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

I was hoping that JC would jump in and own a BB . Jay

Hey jay...good morning,

I'm sitting here sipping my tea thinking, hmm "jay could not be more right" . I thought about it, don't have major need for it now but turf tire is giving me fits. I think for grading gravel I should be okay but more ground engagement should prove problematic at best. I'm having a devil of time finding a local ag rim but I'm looking.

JC,

 

[jbrumberg]

JC:

I had a devil of a time replacing my CaCl damaged R-1 rims for my old Ford 1100, but I finally was able to track a pair down; what a PITA. I agree with you about the traction of R-3's probably will work for gravel and loose material questionable for heavier dirt work unless they were loaded and wearing some aggressive self cleaning chains. Jay

 

[AndyMA]

I pulled a medium duty 96" Land Pride box blade with my Ford 1710 for many years and tens of successful projects. I like wider box blades as they do a neater job.

Andy

 

[bunt]

The tractor has a five foot bucket on the loader and the back blade is five feet.
checked the total width and it was 59 and a half inches, just fit into my 5 x 11 tandum trailer. The ground is made up of clay and sand mostly, It was an old farm then logged over and not used for fifty years, was the bootleggers, you can tell as he got older and weaker, the wine bottles got newer closer to the house, I guess he could not throw them as far, took eight pick up loads of glass to the dump, did save some of the older bottles and am finding them way back all the time. Thanks for the in put, think I will check posts and see if anybody has plans or pictures of a box blade and try and build one as a project until the snow leaves.
Bill

 

[mojoinco]

I have one on my old Case. I am using it on new unit, but it is too narrow. Will do until I find another larger one. A couple of variations out there, including with scarifier teeth. Two major variations on the teeth (and others, but less common): one has teeth on the front bar that are adjustable in height, but digging depth is adjusted with the top link (mine) and another type where the blade and teeth are rotated so that you get one or the other. In the former, you can use both devices at once (loosen as you scrape); you can also use them and/or. A very simple unit (minimal moving parts). This type works well with a hyd top link. One variation uses hydraulic lifted/lowered scarifiers. The scarifiers should have replaceable tip/covers (wear parts -- hammer and punch/chisel is all you need to replace them).

My old Case had the old style diamond turf tires and no weights (nor loaded). It did pretty good. About as much traction as it had lifting power. I would think that loaded tires would be plenty, if needed (don't want to defeat there purpose of low compaction).

One other feature is a rear facing blade that 'floats' (is hinged). Mine has this and it is like having a 'float' to smooth out the surface of loose soil. After having it, I wouldn't do with out it.

I also found that you can over work the fill soil, as the depth of material needed to be pretty decent depth to keep from seperating the material (kind of like working fresh concrete to keep the rock inside and some cement on top for a good finish coat). In my case I was spreading rock fines and ended up with larger rocks on top and found it tough to get it smooth (all the little stuff packed in). Learning curve....

 

[Texas Blues]

I'm using a 5 ft box blade with my 1700. Its a "thickie" and really heavy. It does strain the hydraulics somewhat when in the lifted position. This however was before I changed my completly blown out lift piston seal. When the blade was on the ground, it pulled it fine. Now that I have a more solid hydraulic system, I will hook it up and see how it acts. Also use a 5 ft brush hog with no problems, just alittle bouncy when lifted because of the length and weight. And lastly I have a home made 35" dirt scoop. Also a "thickie" but weighs considerably less than the hog or the blade and of course lifts that just fine. Actually have been looking for a 4 footer to trade for the 5 footer but have yet to find a trade partner.