I have a 4100 HST and plan on getting a box blade to do about 1/2 mile of dirt road. I have r-4 tires. Is a 4' blade too small and too light? I have heard that you should go a few inches wider than your tires. Mine are about 47" wide.
Grading box blade for 4100
- Thread starter GaryK
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Bird
Rest in Peace
jyoutz
Super Member
Bird, I wonder about that. I also have a JD4100 and have been planning to buy a 4' blade due to a rule of thumb I have heard. The rule is 1' of blade width to each 5HP. Since the 4100 is 20HP, then a 4' blade should be about right, huh? I do use a 5' rear scraper blade with no problem.
TomG
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 610
- Location
- Ontario
- Tractor
- Ford 1710: Loader, Hoe, Snowblower, Box scrapper & 3ph Forks
I'm happy enough with my 6' box & 24 hp tractor. Have had some traction trouble with turfs and the scarifiers down, but the problems are manageable.
My first project was re-grading a 12' x 50' area on a slight slope fairly level for a place to put a mobile. I had to cut into the slope as well as move dirt from on end of the area to the other. To cut into the slope, I brought one side of the blade down with the lift leveler. Used the box to move dirt down the area, and finally, the back of the loader bucket to smooth it out.
My point is that doing side to side grading is much easier and more successful with a longer blade. I'd sacrifice some on the rule of thumb hp to length ratio to get more length for better grading. I know it's a tough call. I have to take smaller bites than I would with a 5' blade, so that can take more time. However, trying to get decent grading with a short blade takes time too.
Given my scant experience with these things, I wouldn't expect a box blade to be the magic bullet that fixes a dirt road. I face that as well. Box scrapers aren't big heavy graders, and it looks like road improvement takes some experience as well as patients. You have to fill in any big dips or bumps or the scraper just duplicates them in float, or makes new ones in position control.
The scrapper works well backing up and using the back blade like a dozer. Bumps can be cut and pushed into dips or carried with the box. I'm guessing that road improvement takes time. Eventually the dips and bumps get cured. Then, just dragging the scraper in float (at the right angle) will cut and carry enough dirt in the box to fill in small potholes and washboards.
The right angle is another thing. The top link length is critical to how the scrapper cuts and smoothes. I had to stop and re-adjust it frequently. I got a hydraulic top link with my pallet forks, and that will really improve the box scraper operation.
My first project was re-grading a 12' x 50' area on a slight slope fairly level for a place to put a mobile. I had to cut into the slope as well as move dirt from on end of the area to the other. To cut into the slope, I brought one side of the blade down with the lift leveler. Used the box to move dirt down the area, and finally, the back of the loader bucket to smooth it out.
My point is that doing side to side grading is much easier and more successful with a longer blade. I'd sacrifice some on the rule of thumb hp to length ratio to get more length for better grading. I know it's a tough call. I have to take smaller bites than I would with a 5' blade, so that can take more time. However, trying to get decent grading with a short blade takes time too.
Given my scant experience with these things, I wouldn't expect a box blade to be the magic bullet that fixes a dirt road. I face that as well. Box scrapers aren't big heavy graders, and it looks like road improvement takes some experience as well as patients. You have to fill in any big dips or bumps or the scraper just duplicates them in float, or makes new ones in position control.
The scrapper works well backing up and using the back blade like a dozer. Bumps can be cut and pushed into dips or carried with the box. I'm guessing that road improvement takes time. Eventually the dips and bumps get cured. Then, just dragging the scraper in float (at the right angle) will cut and carry enough dirt in the box to fill in small potholes and washboards.
The right angle is another thing. The top link length is critical to how the scrapper cuts and smoothes. I had to stop and re-adjust it frequently. I got a hydraulic top link with my pallet forks, and that will really improve the box scraper operation.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I think TomG answered you here. If you're going to be digging in a hard surface with the scarifiers, or trying to pull a full load of dirt frequently, the 4' box blade may be your best bet because you may have to take smaller bites with the 5' one. But since Gary said he had 1/2 mile of road to maintain, I wouldn't expect him to be pulling a full load of dirt as often as trying to smooth a surface, and the wider blade will be considerably faster. A lot depends on the kind of work you'll be doing, and personal preference.
Bird
Bird
Well, went to Agri-Supply of Greenville, NC to buy a 5' box blade and a 4' bush hog. They were sold out of both! Have to wait a couple of weeks now. Bought a tow bar just to get something. Prices are pretty good at this place, could walk around for hours.
Bird
Rest in Peace
GaryK, sounds like my kind of luck. I've told my wife several times that every time I go to town (which is as seldom as possible), I can find everything in the world except whatever I am looking for today./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
Bird
Bird
W5FL
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 1,558
- Location
- Central Texas
- Tractor
- TYM T-1104/TX10 Loader Kubota M6800SD/LA1002 Loader Kubota RTV900
Sure is nice if the box blade is really heavy and at least 1/2 as wide as the road you are going to maintain. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
HD4010
Member
Hi,
I have a 53 or 54 inch box blade made by Cammond. I've seen some 48 inch ones at Tractor supply and the Cammond appears to be far better constructed and is proably 50% heavier.
I was a little concerned when I bought that it might be too big (mostly too heavy) for my tractor (4010 at the time). But I've used in with both my 4010 and 4100 (both with turfs) and am surprised how good they pull it. I had the loader on each when I was working with it and can easily pull a full box of dirt in 4x4 (box is probably 18in deep). With the scarcifiers down, I can loose traction if I go too deep, but again, I'm surprise at what these little guys will do in 4x4.
Now that I have it, I'm glad it's as heavy as it is because it mades for great Ballast when doing loader work.
I think you will be disappointed if you get a 48inch. I think the 53-54 I have is a good size for the 4100, but if you can't find this size and are faced with a choice of 48 vs 60, I'd go for the 60. I'm sure mine would pull it fine, especially if I had R1 or R4's.
Just my 53 or 54 cents...
Cheers
HD
I have a 53 or 54 inch box blade made by Cammond. I've seen some 48 inch ones at Tractor supply and the Cammond appears to be far better constructed and is proably 50% heavier.
I was a little concerned when I bought that it might be too big (mostly too heavy) for my tractor (4010 at the time). But I've used in with both my 4010 and 4100 (both with turfs) and am surprised how good they pull it. I had the loader on each when I was working with it and can easily pull a full box of dirt in 4x4 (box is probably 18in deep). With the scarcifiers down, I can loose traction if I go too deep, but again, I'm surprise at what these little guys will do in 4x4.
Now that I have it, I'm glad it's as heavy as it is because it mades for great Ballast when doing loader work.
I think you will be disappointed if you get a 48inch. I think the 53-54 I have is a good size for the 4100, but if you can't find this size and are faced with a choice of 48 vs 60, I'd go for the 60. I'm sure mine would pull it fine, especially if I had R1 or R4's.
Just my 53 or 54 cents...
Cheers
HD
jcmseven
Veteran Member
In my area, I think one could not go bigger than a 4' and have it work well due to the terrain. In Cary, where it is flatter, I think one could pull a five foot fine if appropriately ballasted.
John M
John M
