Box Scraper Box Blade Operation

[agford4x4]

Well, i took it out last night and tried it. Here is what i found.

If i shorten my top link ALL the way, it will get most of the weight forward on the blade, and it cuts very little, in fact, it hardly cuts at all. If i drag it around, the box will be filled primarily with sticks, leaves, and maybe a little dirt here and there. If i lengthen it a tad, then it cuts much better. So, thats what i found. That still goes directly against what was said.

I cannot adjust my top link short enough to get the box endplates to REST on the ground. The top link is a std 21" at the shortest.

A manual??? I have purchased three box blades over several years and none of them came with manuals, I always figured it was learn by trial and error.

Yeah it is. However, its nice to have for part numbers and such.

 

[john_bud]

Can you post the make, model and size of the box blade and tractor?


Phineas wrote - john_bud, I'm confused: If the rear blade is hinged, how can it hold the weight of the BB? Won't it just fold out of the way and rest on the front?

Yes, you are correct - that's the reason boxes with floating rear blades cut better. What I wrote was confusing. Must have been thinking fixed while writing about hinged. Hey, ya get what ya paid for.

jb

 

[agford4x4]

Can you post the make, model and size of the box blade and tractor?

woods HB72, Case DX55

 

[greg_g]

I cannot adjust my top link short enough to get the box endplates to REST on the ground. The top link is a std 21" at the shortest.

No wonder. That's NOT a function of the toplink. If your lower lift arms are bottomed out and the BB still doesn't touch the ground, lengthen the vertical stabilizers (the adjustable links between the upper and lower lift arms).

//greg//

 

[agford4x4]

hmm...you know, that never even occured to me. Ive never made an adjustment to them and the manual and websites only reference the top link. I guess i would have figured it out eventually. duh.

 

[agford4x4]

Actually, my lower links are just about all the way down already. Its ok. the blade doesnt NEED to rest on the side plates. If it does, then it wont cut at all.

 

[greg_g]

Actually, my lower links are just about all the way down already. Its ok. the blade doesnt NEED to rest on the side plates. If it does, then it wont cut at all.

Then - and I'm not writing with any intent to offend - you simply don't understand boxblade operation at all. Boxblades are designed to work below level. The scarifiers and/or the forward facing rear cutting edge naturally bring the side edges below level up/down to whatever level you're working them. And it would seem you're missing something about the TPH linkage as well, because they're supposed to have an operating range that will permit ground engagement work.

But if all you want to do is scrape and push, you should have saved money and bought a regular rear indexing blade.

//greg//

 

[agford4x4]

you simply don't understand boxblade operation at all.

I have no doubt about this. IM just going to use it a lot more and see what happens.

My whole point is that i have SEEN pictures and people using said blade such that the scarifiers engage but the blade does NOT for some purposes and that i cannot accomplish that. The lower links will not go lower and the top link will not go shorter.

What i want to accomplish right now is simply filling a large section of HOLE that wild pigs have created on my place. I want to take all the dirt ABOVE the normal ground level, drag it around and put it BACK in the holes. I do not want to scrape anything below that level. So, im trying to adjust the top link so that when the blade is in FLOAT position, it will accomplish that. I have gotten that to work, but the top link has to be in its shortest configuration. I dont even know if what im doing is the proper way to acomplish this, or if i should just level the box blade and use position control.

 

[ScottK]

Just make your box perfectly level in every direction and use the position control to do what you're trying to do - keep the scarifers up too. Unless the dirt to too hard, it will work fine that way. That's how I operate mine most of the time. You will need to operate the position control (down just before you get to the mound) and then raise it slowly as you come over/into the hole to match the final level. It should not be "floating" when you're over the area you're filling.

 

[agford4x4]

gotcha.