Box blade question

[wny770]

this might sound stupid, but on your average box blade, when the blade is level, are the front and back cutting edges level, or is the rear just a bit higher? Thanks to all.

 

[crazyangel]

I believe they are equal on my Landpride BB 2572. Great question! I guess I never really gave it much thought.

 

[wny770]

Land Pride makes a nice blade. The 2572 is a HD blade, isn't it?

I see WNY. Close to the Boston Hills?

 

[crazyangel]

Land Pride makes a nice blade. The 2572 is a HD blade, isn't it?

I have been very happy with it. It is a heavier duty blade but some might say there are heavier available. No complaints from me though. I work it hard and it takes everything I throw at it.

I am not far from the Boston Hills.

 

[wny770]

I recently bought a Kodiak 5-1/2' box blade. I figure that wouldm be heavy enough for my tractor. 30 HP T1510. Years ago I used to have a HD 7 footer on the back of a 50 HP farm tractor, but I couldn't remember about the cutting edges. To smooth my stone driveway, I will shorten the top link, so when I back up, the rear blade won't dig. Thanks.

 

[crazyangel]

I recently regraded my father's driveway. To get rid of the potholes I used the scarfers first to break things up. When smoothing I had a lot of luck by extending the top link fully and driving forward. It allowed me to smooth using the back of the back blade. It was a trick from my father's neighbor who is a landscaper. Turned out great! Good luck with yours.

 

[crossb]

I was looking for a similar answer so I for one think its a great question!! I have only had my tractor and 5 ft boxblade for 25 hours. I have found the same thing though. If you want to effectively flatten using the rear of the blade you have to lengthen the top arm. That makes the front and back more level. I am really new to it thought because I am finding it hard to keep the side arms even to make level passes. There seems to be one side grabbing before the other inevitably.

 

[JRobyn]

This is EXACTLY how the box blade can (should be) adjusted to do different things! And very subtle changes in the top link can make quite a bit of difference.

If the top link is shortened just a bit, the leading blade hits the surface first and "cuts".

With a slightly longer top link, the back "spreader" or smoothing blade hits the surface and the front cutting blade is held off the surface.

 

[TripleR]

I honestly never really looked, but assumed they were the same. I have a Land Pride 2584 on my L5030 with a hydraulic top link which really helps to get just the right angle on the go for changing conditions.

 

[wny770]

Hey, I just ordered a hydraulic top link from Agri-Supply. I bet it works nice with your box blade. I'm hoping to avoid hopping off the seat every few minutes to adjust the blade when I'm grading the stones on the driveway.....

 

[MasseyWV]

You may find the following TBN forum thread about box blades helpful.

Beginners guide to using a box blade - TBN

 

[wny770]

Well, the Kodiak 5-1/2 box blade I bought was NOT quick hitch compatable as advertised. All day saturday, cutting, welding, and drilling the new hitch supports (A-frame?) and now we're good to go. In hindsight, I wish I would have bought another brand. The hitch kinda tee'd me off. It's constructed OK, but the "blade" (or moldboard) is only 1/8" I believe. Is this the norm with standard duty blades? The ends are 1/4 inch. Probably fine for my little 30HP NH. I remember the 7 footer I had on my Oliver years ago. THAT was a heavy blade. Any Woods attachment I ever had, the quick hitch lined up PERFECT. I started to dislike Woods when I twisted my RB72 blade with my 30 HP NH.

I have to admit, the Kodiak tiller I have is one heavy duty tiller! I think it weighs close to 700 lbs. The tiller out-performs any of my previous tillers. Too bad the blade didn't follow suit. In all fairness, they advertise a HD box blade, so a buyer does have choices.