Box blade setup

[BruceS_55]

My TYM/Branson 2515H has two settings on the lower 3-point arms where you rotate a rectangular piece to one of two directions and it either enables the lower arms to float up and down with the terrain or to stay rigid. I hope I'm describing this so you can understand what I'm talking about. I don't know if all models of TYM tractors has this feature or not. Anyway, I was thinking that when hooking up my box blade I would want these set in the 'rigid' mode so the box blade doesn't float. If I'm trying to dig in with the blade to take out a high spot wouldn't it make sense to set it up this way? I'm a newbie to this in case you can't tell.

 

[i7win7]

Correct idea, the top link setting makes the blade dig in, tranport material or spread material. A hydraulic top link makes the tool work it's best.

 

[oosik]

Ten years ago I got a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. It been a real JOY in every use of my 3-point system.

With the hydraulic top link - the ground engagement implement works perfectly - not just OK.

Some of the advantages - infinite adjustment - adjustments "on the go" so you immediately see the results and can make further adjustments - no stopping, dismount, twist/twist/twist, etc, etc.

 

[BruceS_55]

I know about the top link setting. I was asking about the lower arms.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The OP is talking about the draft arms at the side link connections.
Not that the pictures are exactly like his, but they serve the same purpose. The slots allow for the implement to move up-down on the left-right independently of each other. To have the implement locked in place like a std set, you have the pin head turned horizontal to keep the pin locked down to the bottom of the slot-s.

For the OP, yes when cutting grade you want the pin locked in place at the bottom of the slot.
does not your owners manual say anything about this?

There are many places where this slot & guide feature can be a HUGE benifit. You just need to learn where and when to make use of it. Mowing with a 3pt mower is one of them as well as tilling and disking. Doing a final smoothing pass with about any type of grading implement.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

If your box blade won't cut into the high spots, either the angle of it is incorrect, or it's way too light.

Easy enough to add weight to it, but the hydraulic top link is probably still your best bet.

 

[BruceS_55]

The OP is talking about the draft arms at the side link connections.
Not that the pictures are exactly like his, but they serve the same purpose. The slots allow for the implement to move up-down on the left-right independently of each other. To have the implement locked in place like a std set, you have the pin head turned horizontal to keep the pin locked down to the bottom of the slot-s.

For the OP, yes when cutting grade you want the pin locked in place at the bottom of the slot.
does not your owners manual say anything about this?

There are many places where this slot & guide feature can be a HUGE benifit. You just need to learn where and when to make use of it. Mowing with a 3pt mower is one of them as well as tilling and disking. Doing a final smoothing pass with about any type of grading implement.

If I remember correctly the manual tells what they are for but doesn't mention what implements may benefit from either setting. I assumed the box blade should not float up and down but wanted input from more experienced users. When you say a 3 point mower would benefit, you are saying it would benefit from the float feature, correct? For those that mentioned the hydraulic top link, that is something on my wish list. I know they aren't terribly expensive so just need to get one sometime soon.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes, in the float position. (vertical) This allows the mower to better follow the terrain, instead of the tractor vs leaving spots not mowed to the same height.

The more you use the feature and stop and actually think about what's happening, the more you will use it.

But for actually cutting grade, you want the pins locked down.