Box Blade Sizing

Ugarte · Jul 2, 2015

The BB I'm considering is 60". The rear tire width on my L2501 with spacers is 63-64". Big mistake? Minor annoyance? Won't even notice? (Light duty BB for light duty applications.)

ovrszd · Jul 2, 2015

I use a 84" BB on a 90" tractor. I also use the same 84" BB on a 76" tractor. I use a 60" BB on a 54" tractor.

Generally, I like the BB to be wider than the tractor. This allows cutting against an object such as a fence, gutter, concrete edge, etc. It also puts the tractor tires inside your cut to maintain level.

In your position, I'd buy a 66" BB or a 72" BB.

I think you'll be disappointed with a 60".

Good luck with whatever decision you make.

Rustyiron · Jul 2, 2015

Go wild & wide!
much better results.

ovrszd · Jul 2, 2015

Rustyiron said:
Go wild & wide!
much better results.

Words of wisdom.

Fallon · Jul 3, 2015

Always clear your tracks.

Your L2501 should be the same frame & weight as my L3200. With a loader & loaded R4s I pull a 72" King Kutter box blade decently. I wish it was about a 66" on occasion & frequently wish it was heavier, but its not bad at all.

Less HP doesn't mean diddily, weight is what gives you traction & limits what you can pull. Just down shift or ease up on the HST.

Fallon · Jul 3, 2015

Oh and my tracks with the R4s is 60"

s219 · Jul 3, 2015

A 60" box is a great match for my L3200, covering the tire tracks and I can still move it about half-loaded with material with decent power/traction. When the box is totally full, however, the tractor will struggle.

You really will have to go wider to cover your tracks if you have spacers, just keep in mind you are 7HP less than my L3200 so a wider box is probably going to be a real challenge when it fills up with material.

jenkinsph · Jul 4, 2015

Ugarte said:
The BB I'm considering is 60". The rear tire width on my L2501 with spacers is 63-64". Big mistake? Minor annoyance? Won't even notice? (Light duty BB for light duty applications.)

With the rear tires filled with a heavy fluid such as Rimguard and a fel on the front you can manage it but it will be tough. With rippers down in hard pack I think you will be anchored down. That is with a 66" box blade.

You might consider a land plane grader scraper 60" instead depending on what you need to do. For smoothing out driveways they are easier to pull than a loaded box blade. You can scoop up loose material in a bucket to move and place where needed.

drizler · Jul 4, 2015

Go WIDE. I have been plowing snow for 20 years with a back blade and a long driveway. You definitely want a blade that will be as wide as your outermost wheel print WHEN IT"S ANGLED. If you don't you won't be happy:thumbdown:

s219 · Jul 4, 2015

drizler said:
Go WIDE. I have been plowing snow for 20 years with a back blade and a long driveway. You definitely want a blade that will be as wide as your outermost wheel print WHEN IT"S ANGLED. If you don't you won't be happy:thumbdown:

He's asking about a box blade....

Ugarte · Jul 5, 2015

Thanks all for your advice. I think I'll settle for the 60" as it will see limited use and as my area has a very limited choice of implements of any kind. If an L3200 struggles with a full 60" then I certainly can't go wider and will be mindful not to push it too hard (thanks s219).

Fallon · Jul 5, 2015

Ugarte said:
Thanks all for your advice. I think I'll settle for the 60" as it will see limited use and as my area has a very limited choice of implements of any kind. If an L3200 struggles with a full 60" then I certainly can't go wider and will be mindful not to push it too hard (thanks s219).

My L3200 hits traction limits with a full 72" box, not a 60". And I have R4s not R1s. I wouldn't go any narrower than 64-66" or so on mine.

Coyote Kilr · Aug 7, 2015

I'm getting a new Kioti CK2510hst next week and want a box blade. How wide can I go with it's 24.5 hp? Also any suggestions on brand to get the best bang for my buck?

Fallon · Aug 8, 2015

Coyote Kilr said:
I'm getting a new Kioti CK2510hst next week and want a box blade. How wide can I go with it's 24.5 hp? Also any suggestions on brand to get the best bang for my buck?

HP is the least relevant measure for running a box blade. The most relevant is the weight of your tractor followed by the width of your rear tires.

If you are short on power, you just downshift. If your tractor is to light for your box blade (not enough traction), you need a new box blade.

Generally you want a box blade a hair wider than your tractor. The heavier the box blade the better. A heavier blade will dig & cut better than a light one. All things being equal more weight means more steel, which means a stronger tougher implement.

Baby Grand · Aug 8, 2015

^ What Fallon said.
Higher weight will help the blade bear down and cut into the soil.
Once the blade has cut down to 3 point operating depth, some of that weight will free up and transfer to your 3 point.
The added traction will allow you to pull more soil with the box.
My L3240 is 63" wide, outer sidewall to outer sidewall.
After some searching, I found a Cammond 700 pound 66" blade for it that works great.

Grande · Aug 8, 2015

I am faced with the same quandary, I have a Kubota L3010 HST, (32 hp +/-) and am in need of a box blade. Tractor Supply has 5 and 6 foot in stock locally. Am I going to be disappointed with the 60" or over burdened with the 72"? My bucket width is 66" and rear R4 tires a bit less.

It'll largely be used to maintain a 1/4 mi. dirt road with some steep inclines.

Thanks for the help!

drizler · Aug 8, 2015

I doubt that power is going to matter all that much. Your real enemy is traction and weight. I managed my 7' blade for anything I did with nothing more than a TO 20 Ferguson with worn out tires and nasty old chains. That thing rated at 26 hp and considering age / wear probably had 20 hp left in its old bones at a weight of under a ton. Yours will weigh as much with good wide tires and has the wonder feature of 4WD. You just want something at least a tad wider than the track of the machine and you will be fine. You also will have the advantage of 3 ranges or full hydro control where I had way too much speed all around . Yours will have so much more capability and control so there's virtually nothing to it. I didn't even have power steering to put in my place. Just don't for a minute think you will get to retire the rake and shovel cause it aint happenin. You still will need to do a bit of hand work to straighten things out.
Just consider one thing with WIDE. Where you are going at all times not actually using it. I once stuck a blade right into the gap between my trucks tailgate and box side. I never even noticed it till the tractor started pulling sideways, 2nd or 3rd gear no less. Never even caused a dent even though the truck went sideways a foot and if I had 100 tries at it couldn't do it again:thumbsup:.