Box blade vs 6 way for maintenance on dirt roads

[WillieWax]

I am trying to keep the dirt roads on hunting lease passable. It is leased timber land so am limited to the roads the company put in. Most roads have very little crown, and am restricted to using runoff points the owner has put in.
Suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long driveway. The surface material - gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. After spring - it dries out and becomes hard as concrete.

I have these land engagement implements. HD Rhino rear blade - Bush Hog roll over box blade - Land Pride land plane grading scraper.

The land plane grading scraper ( LPGS ) is, by far, the easiest to use and provides the best results. Just hook it up and drag it. It can be helpful to have scarifiers on the LPGS also. Especially if your road gets hard as mine does.
The rear blade is a "wanna be" road grader. After 43 years out here - I'm still in the learning phase with this implement. As a "short coupled" implement - it takes a whole lot of practice to make good. Problem being - the front of the tractor goes UP - the rear blade goes DOWN. And vice versa. I am CONSTANTLY playing with my hydraulic top link to make an acceptable pass with my rear blade.

The rear blade is good for snow removal and maintenance of my driveway ditches.

I use the roll over box blade ( ROBB ) when I need to move dirt/gravel from here to there.

I would suggest a LPGS that is the same width as your rear tires - or a little wider. With scarifiers if you know they will be necessary. Scarifiers are used to dig up and correct - pot holes, riffles, wash out areas - etc.

AND - Welcome to TBN - WillieWax.

 

[WillieWax]

I have a mile long driveway. The surface material - gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. After spring - it dries out and becomes hard as concrete.

I have these land engagement implements. HD Rhino rear blade - Bush Hog roll over box blade - Land Pride land plane grading scraper.

The land plane grading scraper ( LPGS ) is, by far, the easiest to use and provides the best results. Just hook it up and drag it. It can be helpful to have scarifiers on the LPGS also. Especially if your road gets hard as mine does.
The rear blade is a "wanna be" road grader. After 43 years out here - I'm still in the learning phase with this implement. As a "short coupled" implement - it takes a whole lot of practice to make good. Problem being - the front of the tractor goes UP - the rear blade goes DOWN. And vice versa. I am CONSTANTLY playing with my hydraulic top link to make an acceptable pass with my rear blade.

The rear blade is good for snow removal and maintenance of my driveway ditches.

I use the roll over box blade ( ROBB ) when I need to move dirt/gravel from here to there.

I would suggest a LPGS that is the same width as your rear tires - or a little wider. With scarifiers if you know they will be necessary. Scarifiers are used to dig up and correct - pot holes, riffles, wash out areas - etc.

AND - Welcome to TBN - WillieWax.

Thanks for the information, I will look hard at a LPGS!

 

[scootr]

I use both the box blade (gannon) and the LP depending upon the condition and what is needed. The gannon digs and carries material from the high spots to the low spots. When it gets washboardy the LP will cut the ridges off better, but only since I added a 55 gal water barrel for weight. Both attachments are needed and both attachments require a hyd top link to adjust the collection or spreading of the material. What material you are working will effect which tool is best. There is no one tool for road maintenance unless it is a road grader in my opinion.

 

[Fallon]

I use both the box blade (gannon) and the LP depending upon the condition and what is needed. The gannon digs and carries material from the high spots to the low spots. When it gets washboardy the LP will cut the ridges off better, but only since I added a 55 gal water barrel for weight. Both attachments are needed and both attachments require a hyd top link to adjust the collection or spreading of the material. What material you are working will effect which tool is best. There is no one tool for road maintenance unless it is a road grader in my opinion.

Same. Old worn out heavy 74" Gannon box blade & a 60" Land Pride LPGS. Both will stop my 40HP Kubota L4060 with a full load. I mostly use the LPGS as I can make it move a little material a ways easier than get effortless smooth road with the box blade. So the LPGS gets a bit more use. I could do most jobs with either, but it's faster with the right tool. Next job is making a swale for drainage & will get the box blade though.

I also have a back blade. It's to light to do serious work, but after the scarfiers on the LPGS or box it does a better job crowning or pulling gravel in from the side.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I have a mile long driveway. The surface material - gravel, sand, silt & volcanic ash. After spring - it dries out and becomes hard as concrete.

I have these land engagement implements. HD Rhino rear blade - Bush Hog roll over box blade - Land Pride land plane grading scraper.

The land plane grading scraper ( LPGS ) is, by far, the easiest to use and provides the best results. Just hook it up and drag it. It can be helpful to have scarifiers on the LPGS also. Especially if your road gets hard as mine does.
The rear blade is a "wanna be" road grader. After 43 years out here - I'm still in the learning phase with this implement. As a "short coupled" implement - it takes a whole lot of practice to make good. Problem being - the front of the tractor goes UP - the rear blade goes DOWN. And vice versa. I am CONSTANTLY playing with my hydraulic top link to make an acceptable pass with my rear blade.

The rear blade is good for snow removal and maintenance of my driveway ditches.

I use the roll over box blade ( ROBB ) when I need to move dirt/gravel from here to there.

I would suggest a LPGS that is the same width as your rear tires - or a little wider. With scarifiers if you know they will be necessary. Scarifiers are used to dig up and correct - pot holes, riffles, wash out areas - etc.

AND - Welcome to TBN - WillieWax.

Add gage wheels to the back will help some with the wanta-be road grader issue, a longer tongue will help even more. See the thread somewhere on here.