Box blade

   / Box blade #1  

Bandit2026

Bronze Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
55
Location
Ferrum, VA
Tractor
Ford 8N, Kioti CK35
I purchased a box blade, 5 footer used, and I find its not heavy enough. I'm looking for ways to add some weight but not change the operation. Any Ideas??:confused:
 
   / Box blade #2  
Before you get all excited and do something that may damage the box blade or even worse - components on the 3-point, consider this. There actually is a learning curve on the correct use of a box blade. I would suggest first - shorten the top link on the 3-point. This will make the angle of the cutting edge on the box blade more aggressive and added weight might not be necessary. If you have scarifiers - use them to loosen the soil first.
Remember the components of the box blade and your tractor are designed to handle a designed amount of force. If you make mods that create forces beyond the design limits - something is likely to break.

Check out the videos on (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) - they are good for learning how to use your new implement.
 
   / Box blade #3  
I purchased a box blade, 5 footer used, and I find its not heavy enough. I'm looking for ways to add some weight but not change the operation. Any Ideas??:confused:

I use a 5 ft box scrapper to maintain our road going to the sandbar at the river. I found tractor suitcase weights easily hang from the cross members of my box blade 3 point. Using about 300 lbs for extra ballast. Ken Sweet
 
   / Box blade #4  
I store two tool bars on top of my box blade. Each one is about a hundred pounds (solid 2x2" bar, 7' long). On my scraper blade I've hung 4 tractor weights on that. For my disks, I've put my Yard Pulverize on top of it.... I've seen people hang cement blocks off of it...
 
   / Box blade #5  
Before I got my grading scraper I borrowed a box blade. My friend added a fuel tank from a dump truck (the kind that has a step built into it) and would add water to get it to weigh what he wanted. The problem was he always wanted more weight and eventually filled the 50 gallon tank. That was too much weight for the BB's construction so he was always repairing it. Add weight if needed but be careful as they usually are designed to work with how much they weigh.
 
   / Box blade #6  
Bandit - I have a Bush Hog 72" roll over box blade that weighs 710 pounds. My rear tires are 80" wide so it does not cover their full width. I could pull a heavier unit if I wanted but its not necessary. I adjust the top link and thereby adjusting the angle of cut of the blade. I can quite easily make it too aggressive and bring the entire operation down to just all four tires spinning/digging and I'm going nowhere. You will find that most times the angle on the blade is what will make the unit cut.

If you have scarifiers use them to break the surface.
 
   / Box blade #7  
You can always lift every other scarfier shank one notch and double your point load. My 88" gannon hsd is industrial grade weighs 1300lbs and wont pierce a clay road bed with all the shanks down



1492547127132.jpg
 
   / Box blade #8  
I have used front ballast weights before, that said set up angle has a lot to do with it.
 
   / Box blade #9  
Dave - its hard to tell whats bigger - your box blade or the pickup. That is one massive unit. I know what you mean about a road bed when it dries out and becomes concrete. I've got one section of driveway where wind blown volcanic ash has combined with the road material and its a real bugger later in the summer.
 
   / Box blade #10  
If your box blade has both forward and rear blades, if the third arm is long enough the weight is on the rear blade rather than the front blade it will have a hard time cutting when driving forward. One thing I dislike about box blade with forward and rear blades on them.
 

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