Box Scraper box blades...is bigger better?

[DanHen]

I know the OP has already made his purchase but thought I would add since I recently went through this process. I have an L-47 with 72" rear wheel width and opted for the 78" model from EA for 30-70 hp tractors. The first day I hooked it up I used it to grade a mound that I'd tried to build and then lower and level for about 12 hours with my FEL. Took about 6 passes and had it looking pretty good. Then I went over to the gravel drive way that a recent delivery had rutted up and ran a couple of passes to knock them out. I need to work a little more on that but the BB did great. Then I dropped the tines to about mid way and went out onto the bike trails that are in need of serious work. Within about 90 minutes I had the first two sections straightened up. Amazing how many roots this thing pulls up!

Point being, I'm a total noob, first time ever operating a box blade and you can really get some work done with these things! Slightly wider than your actual wheel width and heavy would be my recommendation! Anxious to get back to work with this new tool

 

[3Lfarms]

I know the OP has already made his purchase but thought I would add since I recently went through this process. I have an L-47 with 72" rear wheel width and opted for the 78" model from EA for 30-70 hp tractors. The first day I hooked it up I used it to grade a mound that I'd tried to build and then lower and level for about 12 hours with my FEL. Took about 6 passes and had it looking pretty good. Then I went over to the gravel drive way that a recent delivery had rutted up and ran a couple of passes to knock them out. I need to work a little more on that but the BB did great. Then I dropped the tines to about mid way and went out onto the bike trails that are in need of serious work. Within about 90 minutes I had the first two sections straightened up. Amazing how many roots this thing pulls up!

Point being, I'm a total noob, first time ever operating a box blade and you can really get some work done with these things! Slightly wider than your actual wheel width and heavy would be my recommendation! Anxious to get back to work with this new tool

I just bought the same EA box blade. I took it out on its trial run to my VFW hall to level out an area for a parking lot. It worked great behind my 68 hp tractor. The fellas were very happy and I was happy to do it. Having never used a box blade before, I was surprised how much control I had cutting thin layers off the clay to get the drainage correct. It took some playing with the top link to get it where we wanted it, but it did everything we wanted and more. Very happy with the quality. Very reasonably priced too IMO.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just bought the same EA box blade. I took it out on its trial run to my VFW hall to level out an area for a parking lot. It worked great behind my 68 hp tractor. The fellas were very happy and I was happy to do it. Having never used a box blade before, I was surprised how much control I had cutting thin layers off the clay to get the drainage correct. It took some playing with the top link to get it where we wanted it, but it did everything we wanted and more. Very happy with the quality. Very reasonably priced too IMO.

Now, just think about all that "playing" with the top link you did and how nice it would be to do that "playing" at the touch of your finger tips sitting in the seat using a hydraulic top link.

 

[oldballs]

Brian......you are a devil in disguise.:laughing:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian......you are a devil in disguise.:laughing:

Not me. :no: Only pointing out a rather inexpensive HUGE time saving feature that goes so well with a box blade as well as most other grading implements. :thumbsup:

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Not me. :no: Only pointing out a rather inexpensive HUGE time saving feature that goes so well with a box blade as well as most other grading implements. :thumbsup:

Brian, I send people your way all the time for those nice adjustment tools! :thumbsup:
Travis

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I send people your way all the time for those nice adjustment tools! :thumbsup:
Travis

Thanks Travis, I try to do the same for the implements that I am familiar with.

 

[DieselBound]

Not sure how people are even able to adjust a manual top link on a heavy box blade. For years I used nothing but a manual top link and that was for a 5-foot box blade on my b7800. That experience made me want to rethink things for when I got my Kioti's box blade! Changing the rake on-the-fly is essential. Friends don't let friends operate box blades without hydraulic top links!

 

[BukitCase]

"Not sure how people are even able to adjust a manual top link on a heavy box blade."

It's easy - just lower the blade til the weight's barely off of the top link, crank the toplink by maybe half a turn, reposition to take the weight off again, repeat maybe 17 MORE times, then get back on the tractor and TRY to remember what you DID it for... ...Steve

(and yes, BOTH my smaller tractors have hydraulic top links )

 

[MtnViewRanch]

"Not sure how people are even able to adjust a manual top link on a heavy box blade."

It's easy - just lower the blade til the weight's barely off of the top link, crank the toplink by maybe half a turn, reposition to take the weight off again, repeat maybe 17 MORE times, then get back on the tractor and TRY to remember what you DID it for... ...Steve

(and yes, BOTH my smaller tractors have hydraulic top links )

Come on, 17 times? It shouldn't be any more than 15, well maybe 16.

I think that in reality, this actually causes "it's good enough syndrome". The cure is typically a good dose of Hydraulic top link.