Box Blading in Reverse

   / Box Blading in Reverse #1  

DAP

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
1,199
Location
From Orange County NY to Lincoln County ME
Tractor
JD LX288 and a B7800
I've seen many posts by folks tackling leveling projects with their Boxblades by going in reverse (implement first).

I understand this will alleviate a ground contact problem created by changes in elevation as the tractor wheels move through rise and falls.

My question: Wouldn't this reverse approach put some serious stresses on the lower arms and perhaps the top link also? Compared to the mass of the box itself, the lower arms seem vulnerable to bending, breaking or failing otherwise.

Now I've never done this yet, but it very well could be in my future as I have a serious drive problem. I haven't decided whether to tackle it myself with a box or have a dozer contract do it.

Clearly, implements on standard tractor designs were made to pull things - pushing things backwards seems a lil nebulous.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #2  
I think you might be right about added stress, but I just did some reverse box blading last weekend. I never thought about it before, but I would suspect that the linkage arms are probably better suited for pulling than for pushing, however, I've never had a problem (yet). Then again, I try not to abuse machines.

Also not all box blades have dual blades (on forward facing & on reverse facing) but mine does, so it is designed for pulling or pushing.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #3  
Doug, we've had messages posted on the forum regarding the bending of the lower arms of the 3-point hitch by pushing backwards with a box blade. I don't recall all the details of make and model of tractor, whether it was steady push or ramming into something, etc., but I've sure used a box blade to push backwards a lot myself with my two Kubotas, frequently pushing until the resistance stopped the tractor and I spun the wheels, and I've never damaged anything. Of course, I never ran backwards and rammed into what I was going to push. I've no doubt those lower links are made for, and are stronger, pulling forward rather than pushing backwards, but of course, I don't know to how great an extent.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #4  
I have at least 100 hours on my 60" KK boxblade going forward and reverse. I've hit roots, rocks, and stumps that have stopped my tractor and almost thrown me off the seat ( I know, I should have worn my seatbelt). I hit one stump so hard that it bent the rear blade on my boxblade and I had to remove the blade and staighten it out. Other than that I haven't had any trouble with my boxblade, but it looks like it went through WW III. I should also mention that my boxblade saved my life. I was trying to pull a 3" diameter maple tree that I had cut off at about 4' above the ground. I hooked a chain to the tree, ran it under the boxblade, and hooked the other end to a twisted clevis on my drawbar. When I pulled with the tractor the bark broke loose from the tree and the chain slid up tree peeling the bark off. I turned around just in time to see the hook and the end of the chain coming straight for my face at about 100 MPH. Fortunatly I was lucky enough (NOT smart enough) to hook up the chain so that it got to the end of it's travel (wrapping around the bottom of my boxblade) before it got to my head. That was probably my most intense pants soiling moment on my tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

My 3PH arms and toplink are still in fine shape with almost 600 hours on my Kubota B2910. Now the loader arms are another story. I managed to bend one arm so that one side of my bucket hits the barn floor about an inch or so before the other side. I don't know whether I did it trying to move 2-3' diameter trees, or digging into rocks, or moving other solid objects. All I know is that my arms should be bent up like pretzels with some of the things I've put them through. No one to blame but myself though, so I've learned to live with it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #5  
Bird is right, Your 3 point hitch is designed to pull not push. However many have abused them by pushing without ill effects. Some have damaged things though... your call... damage of this type to your 3 point hitch might not be covered by warranty...
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #6  
Hi...


Bent the top link on my new Kubota L3130 this 1st winter pushing a 6' grader blade backwards in snow/snow piles...

Thinking may be because the screw parts of the link were extended... and/or softer metal in the threaded link...

Never had this happen with the same blade and a Deere 750 that saw years of this usage... and a lot more each year... including moving soil backwards...


Dave...
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #7  
I do all my ripping, digging, and heavy pulling going forward. Then do most of my leveling of the loosened soil going backward. Works best for me and I don't have to worry about stressing the arms.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #8  
bent my lower arm and check chain bolt when I was going backwards with my boxblade. Hit a buried stump and it ben. Go slow and ease up if you encounter any resistance.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #9  
I don't use my box blade much, but I do push with my grader blade quite often and have never felt concern for the lower arms or top link.

Good luck.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #10  
As I've said before I've got hundreds of hours on my LandPride 8 foot boxblade in the 17 years I've owned it. Almost all of it is with my Ford 2120 which is somewhat heavier frame than a TC45. My usage is almost 50-50 forward and reverse. I just got off a job where I pushed over 10 20 yard loads of gravel, all of the piles were knocked over in reverse adn then leveled going both ways. My 3pt arms are still as good as new. The box has a few bendsd. Tomorrow I will be doing a 300 yard job. I think the problem some of you are having is using too large of a box on a light duty tractor. There is quite a bit of leverage if you catch the edges of a wide box.

Andy
 
 
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