Box Scraper How to/pointers?

Gary_in_Indiana · Jun 21, 2004

It sounds like maybe you needed to shorten your top link further. The idea is to have the back side of the rear blade do the dragging. The front facing blade shouldn't touch the ground if your doing a final smoothing.

Good luck with your project. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

_RaT_ · Jun 21, 2004

That all depends. My set up is ideal for me. All the way in has the cutting edge about 1.5" off the surface allowing me to easily spread gravel/dirt. The front or leading edges are all that touch on firm surfaces. Extend my hydraulic link about 2 to 3 inches and my cutting edge is now at the proper cutting angle. Fully extend my top link and I am in final pass grading mode as the front cutting edge is completely off the ground and only the back of the rear blade is touching. When my surface to cut is covered in heavy sod, I tilt or extend my link just enough to get the rear cutting edge into the surface and drive backwards peeling the sod away, something that works well on my Kubota(s) and bends the daylights out of our NH 2120 lower links. Experimentation is the only way your going to get it. A hydraulic top link is the ideal way. I use mine not only for immediate angle adjustment, but also while spreading material while moving. With a boxblade full of material, be it gravel or dirt, I can easily spread a thin layer elsewhere simply by going from a cutting configuration, 2" or 3" of top link out to spread configuration, top link fully retracted all while moving, something a manual top link simply cannot do.

Libertine · Jun 21, 2004

TORQUIN:

I'm looking for tips on grading with the front bucket. After I do a stump I hate to have to pull off the BH to use the grader box. 

Just did that last week-end & don't like removing BH either for a small job with some other 3pt implement. Tilt the forward edge of the loader bucket down (experience will teach best angle). Lower it. As you pull the material toward you (as you back up) gradually reduce the tilt towards level and raise at same time. Spreads real nice once you get the hang of it. If you're lucking, you can get a finish surface on one pass.

Actually, I prefer the "roll over" box blade to fixed. The "box" rolls over pointing back, or forward. The tines are down only in a third position. In the standard fixed box blade, raising the tines up (and back down) is a pain. Often you only want to rip, or only to grade. If you're moving dirt, loosen with the rippers, flip the blade while backing up, then drop the box and pull the now loosened stuff forward as you spread.

JEH

Freds · Jun 21, 2004

I just started playing around with my BB. I brush hogged a small area and then went over it with the BB. I now have a pile of weeds about 7' high and 6' at the base that I moved out of the area I am trying to level. With the rain and what not I'll bet it's got a pretty good compost effect going.
So... my question is, what am I supposed to do with this pile? If I get my area all levelled out should I spread the weeds back onto it? Will they act like a mulch? Is this where discs would have been the preferred method because they would turn the weeds in with the soil?

Thanks for any help.

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

_RaT_ · Jun 21, 2004

"In the standard fixed box blade, raising the tines up (and back down) is a pain. Often you only want to rip, or only to grade."

I have a standard 72" box blade with hydraulic rippers, a simple press of a hydraulic valve eliminates this issue. I frequently use both blades at the same time for final prep on fairly smooth areas where the front blade cuts the remaining high areas, the rear consolidates and levels it.

Leveling with the loader bucket can obviously be done, but it's very slow. It does a better job of "smoothing out" then leveling.

Libertine · Jun 21, 2004

Rat:

I have a standard 72" box blade with hydraulic rippers 

Obviously, that makes it easier. But how much was the extra cost? I still like the rollover because you can "point" the box rearward and push without the spillover of a standard box blade. But I will agree, hydraulically raised/lowered tines would be lots easier than the manually adjusted ones.

Leveling with the loader bucket can obviously be done, but it's very slow. It does a better job of "smoothing out" then leveling. 

His question/comment was about leveling dirt where a stump had been taken out so he wouldn't have to remove the BH to mount his blade. For that, the loader bucket should work just fine. But I agree, for lots of leveling its not the most efficient - sure does a nice job smoothing though.

JEH

Libertine · Jun 21, 2004

Freds:

 So... my question is, what am I supposed to do with this pile? 

Ummm. Why not let it rot, or, burn it?

JEH

_RaT_ · Jun 21, 2004

Those are all good points. I do not know how much my hydraulic rippers added. My box is 72", weighs about 1000lbs and cost about $1600.

Libertine · Jun 22, 2004

Rat:

I do not know how much my hydraulic rippers added. My box is 72", weighs about 1000lbs and cost about $1600. 

Geez louise. What do you have? 1/2 ton seems a bit heavy & $1600 is $500 more than I paid for my LandPride rollover (of course, I'm a cheap SOB). What do you have?

JEH

Freds · Jun 22, 2004

I was thinking in that direction, Libertine. Just didn't know if there was a way to recycle it so I don't have a bunch of weed mounds sitting around when I am done levelling the field.