If you haven't checked it out yet Carpenter mentioned that he had a similar problem, it might be a good idea to check that out. When one of us has a problem and someone else has had a similar problem it is good that we can communicate it to one another, thanks Carpenter for sharing that someday it might help me.
Grading Box under joystick
- Thread starter horticattleman
- Start date
- Views: 3739
toolz_not_toyz
Gold Member
I've had the same problem for about a year now. It's gotten bad enough that I decided to take some action. 
My aux valve is leaking from the bottom. This started happening after extensive use of the mini-hoe. With the engine off you can hear a "squishy" sound coming from the bottom of the valve. Figuring that the leak was originating at the bottom valve cover, I simply used a flashlight and a small mechanic's mirror to take a closer look. This revealed the "squishy' sound coming from between the valve cover and valve body at the back of the valve pack.
Unfortunately, I can't tighten the valve cover screws down any further without stripping the heads (mine are all Phillips screw heads, not Allen screw heads, which would be way better).
Now, I kinda figured there would be a seal of some sort between the valve cover and valve body...but there isn't. So I guess the only seal would be an O-Ring further up beyond the spring. But then I've got to wonder: is there supposed to be any oil in the bottom part of the valve? I don't mean oil came spilling out or anything when I removed the cover, but there is a bit of oil in the bottom.
I suppose to further disassemble all you have to do is pop off the cotter pin at the top and the stem will slide out of the bottom...is this right? I further suppose that there would be at least two O-Rings: one at the top and one at the bottom. Anyone know what size is required. Also, in my research I came across similar questions that made it clear you wanted to get a specific type of O-Ring that had the correct formulation for hydraulic oil. I assume the stuff from the plumbing aisle at the local hardware store would just be plain wrong.
Any direction would be appreciated. I'm amazed that there hasn't been much mention of valve maintenance in this forum over its history. Isn't this just something that will happen from time to time as the hours add up? Of course, I'm only at 122hrs now, so I supposed my PT 425 is jinxed.
My aux valve is leaking from the bottom. This started happening after extensive use of the mini-hoe. With the engine off you can hear a "squishy" sound coming from the bottom of the valve. Figuring that the leak was originating at the bottom valve cover, I simply used a flashlight and a small mechanic's mirror to take a closer look. This revealed the "squishy' sound coming from between the valve cover and valve body at the back of the valve pack.
Unfortunately, I can't tighten the valve cover screws down any further without stripping the heads (mine are all Phillips screw heads, not Allen screw heads, which would be way better).
Now, I kinda figured there would be a seal of some sort between the valve cover and valve body...but there isn't. So I guess the only seal would be an O-Ring further up beyond the spring. But then I've got to wonder: is there supposed to be any oil in the bottom part of the valve? I don't mean oil came spilling out or anything when I removed the cover, but there is a bit of oil in the bottom.
I suppose to further disassemble all you have to do is pop off the cotter pin at the top and the stem will slide out of the bottom...is this right? I further suppose that there would be at least two O-Rings: one at the top and one at the bottom. Anyone know what size is required. Also, in my research I came across similar questions that made it clear you wanted to get a specific type of O-Ring that had the correct formulation for hydraulic oil. I assume the stuff from the plumbing aisle at the local hardware store would just be plain wrong.
Any direction would be appreciated. I'm amazed that there hasn't been much mention of valve maintenance in this forum over its history. Isn't this just something that will happen from time to time as the hours add up? Of course, I'm only at 122hrs now, so I supposed my PT 425 is jinxed.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
toolz_not_toyz,
On the valve thing, a lot of valves do not have o-rings. If your valve has o-rings, you can replace them. Yes, there is a bunch of o-rings out there. You can take your chance and replace with something similar, but if PT has them, I would get the ones that they were made for the valve in question. I you do not have o-rings, and the valve is leaking, it just depends on how much you can tolerate before fixing. Metal to metal wear is just that, once it wears , there is no fixing. Some might say, find a new shaft, but that would be difficult as they are made to almost match. If the body of the valve is worn, then what. You have to replace. Is it a solid body valve with three stems? If it is sectional, you can separate the sections, and replace just the one that is leaking, and at the same time, I would try and find some hex bolts to put things back together. The valve cover you refer to is just a cover to cover things like the float function, and that part is not pressurized. Your other option is to take the valve to a hydraulic shop and let them test and repair, since they would know about the correct o-ring, etc. Be sure and ask them if they guarantee their work? Good luck
On the valve thing, a lot of valves do not have o-rings. If your valve has o-rings, you can replace them. Yes, there is a bunch of o-rings out there. You can take your chance and replace with something similar, but if PT has them, I would get the ones that they were made for the valve in question. I you do not have o-rings, and the valve is leaking, it just depends on how much you can tolerate before fixing. Metal to metal wear is just that, once it wears , there is no fixing. Some might say, find a new shaft, but that would be difficult as they are made to almost match. If the body of the valve is worn, then what. You have to replace. Is it a solid body valve with three stems? If it is sectional, you can separate the sections, and replace just the one that is leaking, and at the same time, I would try and find some hex bolts to put things back together. The valve cover you refer to is just a cover to cover things like the float function, and that part is not pressurized. Your other option is to take the valve to a hydraulic shop and let them test and repair, since they would know about the correct o-ring, etc. Be sure and ask them if they guarantee their work? Good luck
toolz_not_toyz
Gold Member
Thanks J.J.,
I think someone had posted before that on the PT 425 the valve box is a Sauer Danfoss 1637. Aha! here it is:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/147421-box-under-joystick.html#post1701658
I can't seem to find an assembly diagram for it. It is a solid body though, from as far as I can tell at least. One of those previous posts mentions O-Rings so hopefully I can just slide the stem out if I remove the cotter pin at the top.
I think someone had posted before that on the PT 425 the valve box is a Sauer Danfoss 1637. Aha! here it is:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/147421-box-under-joystick.html#post1701658
I can't seem to find an assembly diagram for it. It is a solid body though, from as far as I can tell at least. One of those previous posts mentions O-Rings so hopefully I can just slide the stem out if I remove the cotter pin at the top.
Rivco
Silver Member
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Well now, if that valve is one piece of steel bored out and fitted with custom spools, then if it is leaking, you have some wear in that spool section, and there is really nothing you can do. It is just a matter of how much leaking you can tolerate. There are much better valves out there, much cheaper than the PT valves, that have o-rings, and are re-build-able. While you are at it, you could upgrade to a four spool valve, for that extra function you might add later. Two of these two spool joystick valves will cost around $325.
Directional Control Valves 220-905 Detailed Information
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009071308263789&item=9-7677&catname=hydraulic
Directional Control Valves 220-905 Detailed Information
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009071308263789&item=9-7677&catname=hydraulic
Last edited:
Rivco
Silver Member
Here are a few pictures of the 1627-2 spool valve that was originally on the 2004 PT-180 I owned. When I built my Mini hoe I installed a 1637-3 spool valve. The only difference between the 1627 & 1637 valve's is 1 extra spool. The 2004/2005 422, 425 2425 PT's and the Red PT's all had the Sauer-Danfoss 1637 valve. (as verified by Terry at Power-Trac)
What brand valve Power-Trac used prior to and after 04/05 is anybody's guess.
Picture 1 is as viewed from the drivers seat.
Picture 2 is the back or plumbing side.
Picture 3 shows the spool valve ( no O-Rings ).
Picture 4 shows the one peice cast machined valve body with no O-Rings.
What brand valve Power-Trac used prior to and after 04/05 is anybody's guess.
Picture 1 is as viewed from the drivers seat.
Picture 2 is the back or plumbing side.
Picture 3 shows the spool valve ( no O-Rings ).
Picture 4 shows the one peice cast machined valve body with no O-Rings.
Last edited:
woodlandfarms
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2006
- Messages
- 6,137
- Location
- Los Angeles / SW Washington
- Tractor
- PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
So, anyone think there is a 4 spool version of this that could plug into the 3 spool version I have? Or something similar. Still wanting to make a 4th control for the grapple, bit with the way it is installed on the PT not sure of the outcome, may just stick with the idea of putting one on the other side, but I would love to chuck the SD as it has some serious leakdown issues...
Oh, here is the manual from SD for our version
Oh, here is the manual from SD for our version
Bob999
Platinum Member
The literature says there is a power beyond port on the valve that is plugged. That seems to suggest that you can connect that port to another valve of however many spools you need.
Hydraulic valve power beyond or high pressure carry over