Boxblade all welded up

   / Boxblade all welded up #11  
:eek::eek: The Blade is 3/8 plate 78" wide, 29" deep and 21 1/2 high. I am guessing when finished it will be about 500-600lbs. Hopefully my Massey 165 is up to it. More pics to come. Thanks guys:):)

Unless there's something wrong with the 3pt on your 165, 600 lb is an easy lift. My MF-135 would have no problem lifting your blade. Pulling it might be a traction problem though since my rears, though filled, are pretty worn.

Stick or MIG welding? If stick, which type rod or rods did you use?

This week I bought 515 lb of new steel for my winter welding projects. Cost me $1.67 per pound. Hope you got a better price on your material.
 
   / Boxblade all welded up
  • Thread Starter
#12  
All stick weld with 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rod. I have a dc buzz box I use. Also have a small mig and an aluminum welder.
 
   / Boxblade all welded up #13  
This week I bought 515 lb of new steel for my winter welding projects. Cost me $1.67 per pound. Hope you got a better price on your material.


Freak'n Fertilizer Bat-man! It's been a long time since I bought steel. Mega ouch!

jb
 
   / Boxblade all welded up #14  
All stick weld with 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rod. I have a dc buzz box I use. Also have a small mig and an aluminum welder.

Thanks. I'll try 7018 with my Hobart LX AC/DC stick welder. Been using 6011 and 6013 so far with OK results. I plan to be welding some heavy stuff soon, so the stronger 70 series rods look like the way to go.
 
   / Boxblade all welded up #15  
All stick weld with 3/32 and 1/8 7018 rod. I have a dc buzz box I use. Also have a small mig and an aluminum welder.

How are you running the dc welder, electrode neg or pos?

I have been welding for 30 years but always struggle with the right rod, range and machine. I've got an ac buzz box, a small mig and a portable gas powered dc.
Mostly use the ac, have good luck with 6011 but recently have been using 7014 as suggested by a weld shop with decent results, seem to have trouble with the 7018, of course no one can go wrong with 7024 for flat work.

I've always heard dc was so easy especially in straight polarity which I believe is electrode neg, that's why I bought the dc welder when I could justify the cost when it was needed for a profitable job I had to do. didn't find it any easier than the ac though!
 
   / Boxblade all welded up #16  
Even thought the I beam you attach the rippers to, is very heavy, it isnt really suitable to take torsion. Even if it might sound unbelievable, I would gusset it a bit, or box off one open end with flatbar, if i were you... ;)
 
   / Boxblade all welded up #17  
fordman, nice project you got going.
Looks like you got a real nice workshop with a lot of good tools to do about anything you want. The boxblade looks like it will be pretty heavy and it's interesting that you're using that I beam instead of a square tube for the scarifiers.
I think it's great anytime I see someone get with it and do a homemade project like that.

If you are up for a couple of suggestions, I would consider what Renze said about adding a bar or gusset where the scarifiers are located on that I beam. If you plan to do a lot of ripping the I beam may tweak right where the scarifier is. Especially if you DON"T plan on doing a lot. That's always when if happens.:) It's not that much more work and good insurance.
The other suggestion I have is again, if you plan to use those scarifiers a lot, you will find it pretty aggravating after a while getting off and on the tractor to adjust them. You have the perfect opportunity to make them adjustable up and down right now. I can see you definitely have the talent, so that is no question.

Using your design, I would consider a gantry type system with linkage and a lever attached to a shaft that you rotate. There would be an "arm" or a couple of them welded or fastened to the rotating shaft and the end of it pinned to the scarifier bar to lift or lower the scarifiers as the lever rotates the shaft. Connect all the scarifiers to a bar that spans them all. The scarifier holder bar is moved up and down by the system and the scarifiers move up and down. The link is from the end of the shaft "arm" to the holder bar so they can slide straight up and down as the bar is rotated. Correct geometry will keep the bar moving in one path rather than being pulled off to the side when you rotate the lever.

You wouldn't need the individual scarifier positioning pins then, meaning you don't have the take them all out to move the scarifiers and put them all back in. Rather make a plate with holes in it next to the lever. Pin the lever to the holes in the plate for various depths/height. You could make it manual, meaning you need to get off the tractor to raise or lower the scarifiers, but only have to deal with un-pinning the lever and re-pinning it. Or, you could add a hydraulic cylinder that moves the lever. You could run it from your rear remotes.
Just something to think about. (lol ... like you needed more project time:))
The upside to any of that is you will be adding even more weight to your beautiful blade.
Rob-
 

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