Brake Controllers

[aczlan]

Here is another one that might be a good replacement for the Maxbrake: Amazon.com: DirecLink Brake Controller: Automotive
Looks like it connects to the OBD-II port so it can check speed and possibly ABS (in addition to knowing when the brake pedal is down) to decide how much power to send the brakes.

Aaron Z

 

[oliver1555]

Here is another one that might be a good replacement for the Maxbrake: Amazon.com: DirecLink Brake Controller: Automotive
Looks like it connects to the OBD-II port so it can check speed and possibly ABS (in addition to knowing when the brake pedal is down) to decide how much power to send the brakes.

Aaron Z

Do you know anyone who has used one of these? I've seen them advertised at Southwest Wheel and wondered how well they worked. When MaxBrake went away SWW added these. They claim there are diagnostics that display whenever it senses a problem. I'd be interested to see what is displayed when used. One of the nice features of MaxBrake is that it tells how many amps are being drawn. It also has a slick feature that lets you apply and hold the brakes for parking (short duration, of course) for loading and unloading equipment, etc.

Often times, crummy wiring on a trailer won't allow the proper amperage to flow to the magnets. Grounds are also a problem on many trailers. All of my trailers have a dedicated ground that runs the full length and all connections are soldered and covered with adhesive shrink tube. My ground on my pickup runs from the plug up to one of the batteries. Relying on the frame for a ground is a crap shoot.

 

[gwiley]

My ground on my pickup runs from the plug up to one of the batteries. Relying on the frame for a ground is a crap shoot.

Bear in mind that if you do not ground your trailer brakes to the frame they will NOT engage via the emergency disconnect if the trailer comes off the tow vehicle. You have to ground to the frame or at least ensure that the brake circuit is closed when the tow vehicle is disconnected.

The best way to test that is to unplug your tow vehicle, pull the disconnect wire and then try to pull the trailer (leave it hitched to the tow vehicle). The trailer wheels should be locked and not roll. If they DO roll then your emergency disconnect is failing and you need to fix it.

 

[oliver1555]

The ground side of the battery on the emergency disconnect should be connected to common ground going to the tow vehicle. All of my trailers are wired that way and they all work. I do have a connection in a protected spot that ties to the frame to pick up any stray voltage. Each place that is connected to the frame has the potential for corrosion. Dexter axle does not recommend wiring that way:
http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/Brake_Resources/Typical_Trailer_Wiring_2-09.pdf

Dexter axle is a great resource. Other things from Dexter:

BRAKES - Do Dexter brake magnet wires have polarity?
The wires on a Dexter magnet do not have polarity. It works like a common resistor. One wire will connect to power and the other to a ground. It is Dexter's recommendation that a common ground be run from the trailer plug to the brake magnets. Do not ground each brake individually to the trailer frame or structure. Also note that the brakes should be wired in parallel, not in series.

Somewhere else on their site, it recommends running the ground on the tow vehicle to the negative side of the battery. That's just what I have always done. Others may have different opinions.

 

[aczlan]

Do you know anyone who has used one of these? I've seen them advertised at Southwest Wheel and wondered how well they worked. When MaxBrake went away SWW added these. They claim there are diagnostics that display whenever it senses a problem. I'd be interested to see what is displayed when used. One of the nice features of MaxBrake is that it tells how many amps are being drawn. It also has a slick feature that lets you apply and hold the brakes for parking (short duration, of course) for loading and unloading equipment, etc.

Often times, crummy wiring on a trailer won't allow the proper amperage to flow to the magnets. Grounds are also a problem on many trailers. All of my trailers have a dedicated ground that runs the full length and all connections are soldered and covered with adhesive shrink tube. My ground on my pickup runs from the plug up to one of the batteries. Relying on the frame for a ground is a crap shoot.

Not personally, a quick search turned up a fair number of people who have used them and say that they are similar to a maxbrake.
There are also a few for whom it wouldn't work (apparently pre 2001ish Dodge trucks were hit or miss as to if it could talk on the OBD-II port).

Aaron Z

 

[bindian]

I forgot to say............my trailer retailer has looked at it and checked it out with their trailer "dummy mule" (a wired lighted grocery cart) and told me it is the controller. He sales a controller that will work with electric/over hydraulic brakes, as well as all electric like mine. Which will be on my next trailer. I'll check out the P3. Stuff like this, I like to buy from local dealers.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Degolyerent]

I have a P3 in my 1ton Dodge and I love it. I am going to put one in the F250 also.
John

 

[Teachu2]

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread. I installed a P3 on my Tundra because of this thread, and I'm very pleased with this controller. Easy install with OEM adaptor, easy to set up and adjust, and works great.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a P3 in my 1ton Dodge and I love it. I am going to put one in the F250 also. John

Why not a factor Ford unit on 05 and new Fords. Ten times better than any aftermarket ones.

Chris

 

[Teachu2]

Why not a factor Ford unit on 05 and new Fords. Ten times better than any aftermarket ones.

Chris

See Adding Factory Trailer Brake Control To Your Super Duty | eBay .

There are several new and used Ford controllers on Fleabay, ranging from $20 to $270, depending on condition and year it fits.